Sandblasting???
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From: Inglewood, CA
Sandblasting???
I am new to this forum and I have a question, I am just starting my restoration on my 56 panel truck. I am in the Los Angeles area and I was wondering who do you guys recommend for sandblasting. I pulled the truck apart and wanted to get the all the parts sanblasted and primered. Thanks for the help.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Woodruff, SC
I'm on the wrong side of the states but i had mine blasted twice. Once to fully clean and the second was a cleanup before i painted it, I cost me 220$ for all of it. Small parts i blast myself.
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From: Inglewood, CA
Have you guys heard of Metal cleaning where they dip the parts in chemicals and the rust dissolves leaving only good steel. I have been looking into this instead of sandblasting but I can't find any company that does it.
Post Fiend
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From: Woodruff, SC
From what i understand it's pricey but does just as good as blasting. I saw a cab before and after it was dipped and there were alot more holes in it afterwards than before, That stuff took everything off.
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From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
A quick search turned this up: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...t=sandblasting & https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...t=sandblasting
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
Originally Posted by fst56
Have you guys heard of Metal cleaning where they dip the parts in chemicals and the rust dissolves leaving only good steel. I have been looking into this instead of sandblasting but I can't find any company that does it.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
I have heard of this oozing too, specifically at crossmembers and riveted brackets. On the other hand, I've heard of sand coming out of tight spaces for months after blasting.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Riverside, So Cal
Originally Posted by fst56
I am new to this forum and I have a question, I am just starting my restoration on my 56 panel truck. I am in the Los Angeles area and I was wondering who do you guys recommend for sandblasting. I pulled the truck apart and wanted to get the all the parts sanblasted and primered. Thanks for the help.
What part of LA do you live in? (Go read the thread "Location, please" and enter your location). I live in Riverside and use a shop local to me. They have done excellent work for a reasonable price.
I saw an advertisement in "Drive" magazine for an outfit in San Gabriel that does a lot of hot rod work.
You probably want media blasting, as sand is not recommended for sheet metal, unless the blaster is REALLY good at it, since it can warp the panel easily.
When you find a place, ask if they can also epoxy prime your parts after blasting (not just paint them). That will give you all the time you need to do your repairs and mods without the worry of flash rusting, which begins the instant the blasting is complete. You can body fill right over the epoxy or grind it off locally to weld, then reprime.
Avoid acid dipping for the reasons mentioned.
Good luck.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Pflugerville, tx
you guys must live lucky.. I just got back my new 54 blasted and primed, bed, cab, doors, hood,(full body panels+ 2 extra rear fenders). Soda blasted body parts, sand blasted chassis $1100..
Sam
Sam
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
Lucky you to live in the heart of Hot Rodder's heaven! Call a couple of the local "name" shops and ask who they use/recommend. Soda blasting is definitely the best for old sheet metal, takes off paint but not metal, rust or old filler. Leaves no problem residue if phosphate washed after. Glass can remain in place.
A good blaster will then spot blast any rust off.
Next would be walnut shell, similar effect to soda but residue is not water soluable so needs to be blown/vacuumed clean.
A little more agressive is plastic media or plastic media/walnut shell mix. can remove rust and/or filler depending on media selected.
Don't use sand on body panels or anything you are planning on sanding and filling. The pressure needed and heat generated can easily warp larger panels, plus the sand will embed itself into the metal, making finishing very difficult.
A good blaster will then spot blast any rust off.
Next would be walnut shell, similar effect to soda but residue is not water soluable so needs to be blown/vacuumed clean.
A little more agressive is plastic media or plastic media/walnut shell mix. can remove rust and/or filler depending on media selected.
Don't use sand on body panels or anything you are planning on sanding and filling. The pressure needed and heat generated can easily warp larger panels, plus the sand will embed itself into the metal, making finishing very difficult.
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Syracuse, N.Y.
Sandblasting???
fst56,
My father in law has been restoring cars for over forty years and swears by sandblasting. I have done some also. It works great, I've never had any warpage problems. You can't let your nozzle stay on one place too long. It brings the metal back to where it looked before painting at the factory.
Your lucky where you live as your in hot rod heaven.
Jeff
My father in law has been restoring cars for over forty years and swears by sandblasting. I have done some also. It works great, I've never had any warpage problems. You can't let your nozzle stay on one place too long. It brings the metal back to where it looked before painting at the factory.
Your lucky where you live as your in hot rod heaven.
Jeff
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,757
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From: Alberta Canada
I sandblasted my cab, hood and frame myself, there is an industrial site close by where I live that charges by the hour , their equipment. You do have to be carefull, don't stay in one area too long, especially on flat surfaces. Approach the surface from an angle and not too close, a little at a time.
The doors, fenders I had dipped, re-verse electrolysis, where the rust is forced from the metal. This avoids bleeding afterward.
Tom
The doors, fenders I had dipped, re-verse electrolysis, where the rust is forced from the metal. This avoids bleeding afterward.
Tom