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I am getting my first batch of soda media next week - going to try it out, in the cabinet, then go from there...we'll see if it's all it's cracked up to be...
I was of the impression (could be mistaken, wouldn't be the first time) that soda required higher pressure and volume than sand.
Good question. They guy that sandblasted my frame uses the same compressor for both. It's a portable setup maybe he adjust for the different types, I know he uses a different gun.
The salesman did give me an name/address of a company that sells equipment, media, and does the blasting as well. I will be taking a road trip down there, to check it out. He did say I shouldn't have any problem using it in my blasting cabinet...I'll keep y'all posted.
I did a quick look-see about soda, and ran across a site that also sells a media they call "super-K" which is potassium sulfate. Similar qualities to soda, water soluable, environmentally safe, doesn't produce heat, non abrasive, won't damage substrates but they say it's a harder crystal than soda so it works 30% quicker and will remove rust. They recommend it for auto restoration work. they say soda and super-K leaves a protective film that reduces flash rusting so it is not necessary to prime immediately like with sand or other abrasives.
I used a machine to strip paint from aircraft which used high pressure (10,000 - 12,000 psi) water injected with baking soda. Yes, this was definently commercial grade equipment and required perioidic maintenance. It stripped the paint and left a definate baking soda "taste" in the air. We were intructed to ensue all cracks and crevious were completly rinsed. The finish of the aluminum was slightly course, less than that of sandblasting. If you try the soda and it doesn't work out you should have enough left over to keep your fridge fresh for years!
I know they are becoming more and more popular with the resto-guys, because of the environmental and physical impacts, and the flash-rust prevention that was mentioned earlier. It is reported that it removes paint, without the heat build-up, then you can spot-sandblast the areas that need it.
I'm willing to give it a try - I haven't bought a pressure tank yet, for the "outside" work, but if this works well, and I have the horsies on my compressor (I'm running over 100 gallon tank), then I will lean that way.
I just ordered a 100# sample of some soda to try blasting my cab. Sales guy told me much the same info as listed above. He did say that the volume of soda material required through the blaster would be MUCH less than I was used to with sand. He said I would waste a lot trying to dial in the right setting. As I understand it, you want to use high pressure to create a 'hard' impact of the soda against the paint and a chemical reaction is as much a part of the removal process as is the coarseness/sharpness of the soda.
Roger, I am very interested in hearing how you make out.
As I understand it, you want to use high pressure to create a 'hard' impact of the soda against the paint and a chemical reaction is as much a part of the removal process as is the coarseness/sharpness of the soda.
Roger, I am very interested in hearing how you make out.
Well, the big brown truck dropped off a 52 pound sample today. I ran over and dumped it in the cabinet, turned my pressure to 90 psi, didn't change tips or nothin'. The tip was pretty worn, but this thing worked great! I started with my grill for the speaker, took the paint right off, to bare metal. Shows the heat marks, where the studs are spot-welded. Didn't take any rust off, there's a few places that were under the paint. Now I can spot-blast with beads, those spots. Next, tried it on a radio delete plate, that Rich sent me. Took off the top layer of owner-applied black paint, leaving gray primer, then took the primer off, leaving red paint, then took the red paint off! Amazing!! Again, doesn't touch rust at all, but leaves the metal bright and shiney, just like it was before they painted it at the factory! I think it will be idea for "intricate" work, dash, etc. I wouldn't want to do a frame with it, because you'd just have to blast again, but I rather like it. I'll play with it some more, and try to report back...
Roger,
Wow, that's really encouraging....
You mentioned taking a trip to a supplier... where might they be? My source said the closest to me was Atlanta. Another supplier I emailed responded that the smallest amount they would ship was 400# and they generally figure $2.00/#. Norther Tool has some on their website and it works out to approximately $1.40/# (50# for about $40 plus $30 shipping) I'm still waiting for my sample.
To the original poster.... I have used MacPherson a few times in the past... they are located in Long Beach.... phone number is 562-808-2260 address is 6765 Paramount Blvd. Long Beach CA 90805
They do really good work, turn around times are good and prices are good.
hope this helps.
Tim
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