Ignition switch replacement on 96 Explorer
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2003
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Ignition switch replacement on 96 Explorer
By removing fuse#1 I have determind that what keeps causing my battery to go dead is a current drain through the ignition switch. The ignition switch has deteriorated to the point that even without a key in it, it just rotates this way and that. Due to this I suspect it is keeping the PCM power relay, and ICM module energizied all of the time thus draining my battery after sitting for about a week. Although I still have to use the key to start it. Anyway it seems it is time for a new ignition switch. How diffacult is it to replace the ignition switch and how does one go about doing it?
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Here's a picture of it.
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d800bca6d.gif
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2.
Remove the steering wheel.
3.
As necessary, remove all under dash panels in order to gain access to the ignition switch.
4.
As necessary, lower the steering column to gain working clearance.
5.
Disconnect the ignition switch electrical connectors.
6.
Remove the ignition switch retaining screws from the studs. Disengage the ignition switch from switch rod. Remove the switch from the vehicle.
To install:
7.
Position the lock cylinder in the LOCK position.
8.
To set the switch, position a wire in the opening in the outer surface of the switch through its positions until the wire drops down into the slot.
The slot is in the bottom of the switch where the rod must be inserted to allow full movement through the switch positions.
9.
Position the ignition switch on the column studs and over the actuating rod. Torque the retaining nuts to 40-64 inch lbs. (4.5-7.2 Nm).
10.
Remove the wire from the slot in the housing. Continue the installation in the reverse order of the removal procedure.
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d800bca6d.gif
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2.
Remove the steering wheel.
3.
As necessary, remove all under dash panels in order to gain access to the ignition switch.
4.
As necessary, lower the steering column to gain working clearance.
5.
Disconnect the ignition switch electrical connectors.
6.
Remove the ignition switch retaining screws from the studs. Disengage the ignition switch from switch rod. Remove the switch from the vehicle.
To install:
7.
Position the lock cylinder in the LOCK position.
8.
To set the switch, position a wire in the opening in the outer surface of the switch through its positions until the wire drops down into the slot.
The slot is in the bottom of the switch where the rod must be inserted to allow full movement through the switch positions.
9.
Position the ignition switch on the column studs and over the actuating rod. Torque the retaining nuts to 40-64 inch lbs. (4.5-7.2 Nm).
10.
Remove the wire from the slot in the housing. Continue the installation in the reverse order of the removal procedure.
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 278
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Thanks. From the pics and your description it appears that the key cylinder and the actual ignition switch are 2 different parts. If this is true then I wonder if the real problem is that the key cylinder is the actual culprit since it just flops around and possibly engages the ignition switch in error. What do you think?
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,997
Likes: 2,744
From: Virginia
It could be. I haven't worked on Explorers much, but notice the elec switch is still up in the top of the column.
On a pickup, the mechanical part is up in the top like your Explorer, but there is a rod that runs all the way down the column and the ignition switch is actually under the dash on top of the column. They have a pesky little piece made out of potmetal that breaks all the time in those that will let the switch go to run, but will not push it enough to make it go to start and crank the engine over.
On a pickup, the mechanical part is up in the top like your Explorer, but there is a rod that runs all the way down the column and the ignition switch is actually under the dash on top of the column. They have a pesky little piece made out of potmetal that breaks all the time in those that will let the switch go to run, but will not push it enough to make it go to start and crank the engine over.
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