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On my 88 model, the EGR valve is at the top of the motor on the back side closest to the cab. It has two bolts, both rusted up pretty good from the heat and the sizes are either 9/16 or 1/2, I can't remember exactly. If you're referring to the tube, I don't know that size.
For the bolts, they are both #5 hard and will take great force. For bolts that are really tough, shock them by having someone tap with a hammer on either the bolt or the top of your ratchet real fast while you apply pressure. I worked on Massey Ferguson tractors and that's the way we loosened alot of really tough bolts/nuts without breaking them off. Liquid wrench and all that works in some situations.
Try some WD-40 or other type penetrating oil. I would spray some on, wait over night, spray some more first thing in the am. Then on the second night try the bolts. If no louck, repeat process.
Russell
1968 F250, 300CID I6, C4. A beauty slowly coming together.
Not sure WD40 will do it; try B'laster or Kroil. As indicated before, spray, let sit overnight, spray again and wait a while. It may also help to remove fasteners when hot -- don't burn yourself, now!:P
What year truck? Make sure you're trying to loosen the compression nut and not the bushing. The bushings will gall and eventually with enough force, you'll back the bushing out along with the aluminum threads. It's a two wrench job....the one on the manifold is even harder to get out, I've never been able to remove the exhaust bushing. Lots of penetrating oil, time, and back breaking pain...at least on the older trucks.
On my 90 F150, I used either a pipe wrench or a big crescent I bought for about $6 at Harbor Freight Tools. Used a lot of WD-40 the night before, then hooked up the wrench and hit a couple of whacks (this nut turns counterclockwise) towards the cab and it came loose. Just go slow and be careful. If it still won't budge, try heating it with a propane torch, then doing the wrench and sledge trick.
You may also want to try breaking the nuts free while the engine is still relatively warm. I couldn't get my upper to lower intake bolts to budge when I was doing the injector swap, but once I warmed things up they came free easily. Also, don't get to agressive when tightening the EGR bolts back on. My buddy was nice enough to snap one while we were putting things back together, and you'll have to remove the upper intake to be able to use an ez-out.