Tips? help? Support??
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Tips? help? Support??
Hey all, I am getting a little upset and need some advice. Yesterday I was driving my van, and all of a sudden it gets tons louder, obvious exhaust leak. So I tear it apart today and see the egr line from the exhaust manifold to the egr valve has snapped off. No biggie, so I remove the line from the egr valve and pull the broken tube out. Now for the life of me, i can not get the nut loose from the exhaust manifold. I have tried everything, heat, cold, wd-40, and about a dozen other penetrating lubes, and have a 5' long breaker bar on the 2' long breaker bar and all that happens is I am darn near lifting the van off the ground trying to loosen the nut. I am stumped.
At this point my idea is to just keep soaking it over the next few days and see if it will break free. Any other ideas? Or tips and tricks for removing a 1" or so nut from the exhaust manifold? This is what I am trying to remove, the fittings on the right in the pic,
At this point my idea is to just keep soaking it over the next few days and see if it will break free. Any other ideas? Or tips and tricks for removing a 1" or so nut from the exhaust manifold? This is what I am trying to remove, the fittings on the right in the pic,
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From: Outside of Memphis, TN
Heat it until its bright red, and wrench on it. If you are unable to get any joy that way, then you might want to consider a nut splitter. Autozone a rental that will work for nuts up to 7/8 across...
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that is what i have been doing so far without much luck. My IR 1/2" impact won't touch it either. I need an universal joint too which doesn't help much.
I was using wd-40 since I had some in the van, I swapped over to PB Blaster after that.
Brew
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So what is left is the hex nut with a threaded base shown that is presumable threaded into the exhaust manifold? And, the tube protruding from the hex nut in the photo is gone? Is that what we have? And, what is the diameter of the threaded base, inside and O/D if I may ask?
I would use some caution relying on brute force on an exhaust manifuld since these things fracture unexpectedly.
So based on the size, I am probably gonna suggest that you drill out the threaded base to a 1/16" of the threads and then try to turn it out. But, let's see how big it really is.
Worst case, once you drill it out, leave the steel in the cast iron manifold and just weld the new piece in place and call it a day. Actually, why not just weld the replacement fixture right on top of the vacant hex nut you have?
I would use some caution relying on brute force on an exhaust manifuld since these things fracture unexpectedly.
So based on the size, I am probably gonna suggest that you drill out the threaded base to a 1/16" of the threads and then try to turn it out. But, let's see how big it really is.
Worst case, once you drill it out, leave the steel in the cast iron manifold and just weld the new piece in place and call it a day. Actually, why not just weld the replacement fixture right on top of the vacant hex nut you have?
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I will try to take pics tomorrow, but this is a bad pic of what is there. The pipe broke at the fitting, and there are actually two fittings there. I would be happy with either to come loose. The closest one to the pipe (red line) is a 15/16, the larger is about 1-1/8" or so.
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Postmaster
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at this point, you might try the 3/4" drive impact gun - if you have one and you're willing to risk snapping off the fitting.
if the combination of heat/cold, PB blaster, and excessive torque doesn't do the trick, i think you may be looking at drilling it out, or swapping the manifold out.
if the combination of heat/cold, PB blaster, and excessive torque doesn't do the trick, i think you may be looking at drilling it out, or swapping the manifold out.
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Great photo and diagram. Can you get a drill behind it? A 1/2" Bosch right angle drill rents for $7/day at Sunbelt, and admittedly, it is not much for a 15/16th fitting, but I think with a titanium bit you could drill that out. Often, when you increase the inside diameter closer to the threads, it will then turn out. And, it it breaks off, you leave the steel fitting in and weld the new one right on top of it.
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I don't have room for a drill, not sure if my dewalt 90" drill will fit or not.
I ended up ordering the part online since it saved me about $50 from local, so I have 4 or so days before it shows up. I am going to keep blasting it with PB Blaster a few times a day and see if it loosens up some. If not, before I drill it out and dig out my welder, I will bring it to the local mechanic and see if he can get it out. then it is on him if he breaks something
Brew
I ended up ordering the part online since it saved me about $50 from local, so I have 4 or so days before it shows up. I am going to keep blasting it with PB Blaster a few times a day and see if it loosens up some. If not, before I drill it out and dig out my welder, I will bring it to the local mechanic and see if he can get it out. then it is on him if he breaks something
Brew
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I think there is an SAE standard that says reverse threads are only to be used when there is a reason. Sometimes its not a very good reason, IMO, but they don't just do it ***** nilly. Of course, there is a lock nut on that fitting for the tube. Hmmmm?
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ok, I got some movement now on the larger nut. I can't tell if it spinning out, or snapping, but it is moving. I moved it about 1/4 turn, stopped, and sprayed it some more. Will try turning it a little more later.
Brew
Brew
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Brew