its 20s and 30s here, seems ive noticed more smoke lately, maybe thats why, but with only 55k miles, id be pretty sure there isnt anything wrong.

 

I think the delta T is controlled primarily by the proximity of the hose to the engine heat, and is not influenced much at all by the various ambient temps due to changes in seasons.

Condensation on the other hand is always much worse in the winter. I've lived in an RV for almost 9 years now, and I'm an expert on condensation! I get it everywhere during the winter. Any time anything warms up during the day, and then gets cold at night, condensation forms. On outside surfaces the condensation evaporates the next day, and then more condensation forms the next night. However, inside plastic storage boxes with loose fitting lids I've had puddles of condensation form due to the fact that very little of the condensation that forms at night evaporates the next day, and it just keeps accumulating. This never happens during the summer months, just during the winter.

In any case, it's always a good idea to have a CC pressure gauge, and then you know if there's a problem before it becomes a costly one.

 

I do intend to ge tone of these, but I personally think that the big honkin' Magnehelic gauge is too large and also is ugly, and don't want it in my truck. I've had some trouble locating a low-range water column vacuum gauge... any tips on where I can get a small (1.5-2.5" diameter) dial gauge of this sort?

 

The CC pressure gauge is the small one in this pic... Click for full size image It's the first one in this list below, the second one is the Magnehelic for CFM. If you come to Smokin we can hook up my portable CC gauge and do a quick road test.

Here's the exact info on my gauges, the first is for CC pressure and the second for CFM.

<SMALL><SMALL>Phone:(609) 259-8900 Fax:(609) 259-3575 Internet:www.mcmaster.com</SMALL></SMALL>
<SMALL><SMALL>E-mail:nj.sales@mcmaster.com</SMALL></SMALL>
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=2 width="95%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=middle width="5%">1 </TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=middle width="6%">1


Each

</TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=middle width="13%">4026K251 </TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=left width="46%">Low-Pressure Diaphragm Gauge 1.5% Accuracy, 1/4" NPT Center Back, 0-10" of H2O (Same as 4026K5)




</TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=right width="10%">$49.65 </TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=right width="11%">$49.65 </TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid" width="2%"></TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top noWrap align=middle width="9%">Monday morning




</TD></TR><TR><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=middle width="5%">2 </TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=middle width="6%">1


Each

</TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=middle width="13%">4021K47 </TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=left width="46%">Low-Pressure Differential Gauge +/-2% Accuracy, 1/8" NPT Fem, -15 to 15" of Water (Same as 4021K51)




</TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=right width="10%">$75.55 </TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top align=right width="11%">$75.55 </TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid" width="2%"></TD><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #edefed 1px solid; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica" vAlign=top noWrap align=middle width="9%">Monday morning</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

mine smokes, hot or cold. it does seem to vary a bit with humidity, more noticeable in higher humidity, but it doesnt ever not smoke. it seems to smoke a fair amount as well. is this a bad thing? or is this normal? or does anyone really know? just curious

 

For sure it's not a good thing to have more smoke. As a general rule, more smoke means more blow by gases, which means your rings aren't sealing as well. I've seen info suggesting that the volume of blow by gases increases by a X4 or more from lower to higher mileage due to normal engine wear. How many miles do you have on yours?

Ford has a test set for measuring blow by, and they do this test before doing a compression test. Supposedly if it fails the blow by test they don't recommend the expense of doing the compression test as they're pretty sure it won't pass one anyway.

A guy in a truck shop said to remove the oil cap, fold a white T shirt into 8 layers thick and tape it over the oil filler tube, and measure blow by that way. Unfortunately I can't remember all the details, but he did a standard test drive, and checked to see how many layers got wet with oil?

 

I sure wish you could find the details of a blow by test. I'm more curious than anything.

 

it has 175,000 miles on it now. my brother in laws 02 does the same thing and it only has 120K on it. what would you think time involved in new rings etc (overhaul kit) would be? i can get a kit for about $900, i think. it seems to run very strong, IMO. As does my brother in laws. hope its not imminent catastrophic engine failure or anything.

 

if you think your CCV is smoking more than you want or you get really no smoke at all please add what type of oil your using and normal ambient temps.

 

Well, lets hold a "wet T shirt contest" here on FTE! I've got several that have been relegated to the rag bin. I'll try the following method, and report the results. I'll use the next trip to Wal-Mart which is 8 miles down the road to warm up the engine. Then I'll install the T shirt folded to provide 8 single layers. I'll fluff it a little to separate the layers so they're not all stretched real tight over the filler hole. On the way back, I'll do 2 WOT runs up to 20 psi boost and drive normally the rest of the trip. I'll take CC pressure readings. Then remove the T shirt and examine the layers.

Now a more scientific way to measure blow by is discussed in this thread...
https://www.ford-trucks.com:80/archives/ubbthreads/1999upg2/forums.ford-trucks.com/archives/showflat.php-Cat=&Number=1173983&page=15&view=collapsed&sb=5&o= &fpart=1.htm

"My Ford, 2000, 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis Manual, page 4A-54, says anything less than 4" H2O, at WOT under no load, is OK. 4" and higher start looking for problems. The test is performed by sealing off the breather and putting an orifice restrictor adapter in place of the oil filler cap. I do not know how small the hole in the restrictor is but by the picture is not very big.(lot smaller than the breather hose) Any Techs have access to a crankcase orifice restrictor tool 014-00743 that can measure the restrictor hole for us?"

Is there a Ford tech on FTE who can tell us the dia of the orifice restrictor tool 014-00743, and maybe we can make one from an oil cap?

 

Usually poor compression shows up as hard starting in colder weather, with some smoke after starting, then as the engine warms up little or no smoke, and it runs almost normally with good power after that. Here I'm talking about smoke out the tailpipe. I don't think I'd tear down an engine unless it was beginning to have significant symptoms indicating that it was needed.

Make sure the hose clamp on the 6637 is tight so your not leaking unfiltered air at that junction. Donaldson sells a high torque clamp to go with their version of the 6637.

 

yes, i can get you the adapter size, and i'll even post some pics of it for you

 

In my town the avg annual temp is 69 degrees. As hi as 110's in the summer and as low as the teens in the winter. I use chevron delo 400 15W-40 oil. The vehicle burns maybe 1/2 a qt between 5K mile oil changes. I have it vented all the way 2 the rear and run thru a NAPA ccv filter.

 

That would be great. Can you size the Ford restrictor hole, and tell me the correct diameter for the drill bit to drill an oil cap like in this pic... Click for full size image which shows how I connect the portable version of my CC pressure gauge.

If I've got this correct, one could stick a cork in their CCV vent hose, install the home made restrictor oil cap, and rev the engine and measure the CC pressure, and this would be the same procedure as the Ford test?

 

If you've been following my posts on CCV mods, I recommend not to use an external filter, especially if you don't have a CC pressure gauge to monitor how much additional CC pressure build up it's causing due to its additional restriction.