Need headers Got a cracked frame!
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Junior User
Joined: May 2007
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From: SO CAL
Need headers Got a cracked frame!
ok guys its a '79 f-150 custom 4x4. it originaly had a 351 in it, now it has a 460. yea the guy I baught it from swapped the engine....AND CUT THE FRAME!! 
the stock exhaust manifold on the 460 wouldnt fit....because the frame was in the way. So he cut the top of the frame. But only on one side, the other side doesnt have a problem, it has plenty of room. ....I knew about before I baught it, but didnt think much of it, I knew it would become a problem someday, and well today is the "someday". I noticed a hair-line crack about a week ago, I have been watching it ever since, I did some minor offroading last night, didnt even need 4x4. but the frame was flexing a little....I checked it after i got home, to find that the crack had cracked farther, and has seperated! I spent 5 hours last night trying to find some headers. I went to bed at 2am. I have been mostly unsuccesful at finding some fender well exit headers for this truck because it doesnt have the right engine. Once I get the headers to go around the frame, I will have it wrapped up and professionally welded with supports and all that.
soo Iam asking if any of you have any info on who makes a pair of fender well headers for this truck with a 460? All I really need is one fender well exit for the passenger side, and a regular header for the other side since it has enough room...
ANY HELP OR INFO IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!!
the stock exhaust manifold on the 460 wouldnt fit....because the frame was in the way. So he cut the top of the frame. But only on one side, the other side doesnt have a problem, it has plenty of room. ....I knew about before I baught it, but didnt think much of it, I knew it would become a problem someday, and well today is the "someday". I noticed a hair-line crack about a week ago, I have been watching it ever since, I did some minor offroading last night, didnt even need 4x4. but the frame was flexing a little....I checked it after i got home, to find that the crack had cracked farther, and has seperated! I spent 5 hours last night trying to find some headers. I went to bed at 2am. I have been mostly unsuccesful at finding some fender well exit headers for this truck because it doesnt have the right engine. Once I get the headers to go around the frame, I will have it wrapped up and professionally welded with supports and all that.soo Iam asking if any of you have any info on who makes a pair of fender well headers for this truck with a 460? All I really need is one fender well exit for the passenger side, and a regular header for the other side since it has enough room...
ANY HELP OR INFO IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!!
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,312
Likes: 1
From: Eldorado Ca. USA
That is the classic symptom of using the lincoln/passenger car exhaust manifold instead of the truck one. If you change that manifold out with the truck manifold, you will clear just fine. L&L and Hooker both make 460 swap headers for these trucks.
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 614
Likes: 92
It looks like ( from your pic)the the PO already put a weld to stop the crack. Can you clean that up and check? If it is, it looks like it held up,when you twisted the frame enough to raise the back part or drop the front.
But: it seems like they would have welded the crack too.
But: it seems like they would have welded the crack too.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,305
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From: Wisconsin
yup that is not good.
i woudl just go get a piece of heavy plate steel cut out a nice clean section from the frame and weld in the new plate steel.
or also i hear if you drill a hole right where the crack stopps it will prevent it from cracking more. any one else ever hear of doing that?
Mitch
i woudl just go get a piece of heavy plate steel cut out a nice clean section from the frame and weld in the new plate steel.
or also i hear if you drill a hole right where the crack stopps it will prevent it from cracking more. any one else ever hear of doing that?
Mitch
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Junior User
Joined: May 2007
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From: SO CAL
m78: yes it does look like that. But no its not a weld, its just the metal twisting and pulling apart. the part or coating is cracking off therefore you see a bit of bare clean looking metal. and I baught it a couple of monthes ago, I havent done anything to it, and the crack when i baught it was very very small. maybe half of that clean cut crack in the first picture. it was maybe 1/4 inch crack. good thought though.
Masterbeavis: I just visited broncograveyard, and yes thank you very much. they have exactly what i need.
79f-250custom: yea Iam going to wait until I get the headers, so I have enough room to do a GOOD job of patching it up. Iam going to go all out on this frame....it needs to last!! and no I have never heard of drilling a hole at the end of a crack to stop it from continueing....but you know, that actually is a very good idea. it makes sense to me. it would have to start over, the crack would need to begin agian, it wouldnt have any "momentum" i guess you could say...
Masterbeavis: I just visited broncograveyard, and yes thank you very much. they have exactly what i need.
79f-250custom: yea Iam going to wait until I get the headers, so I have enough room to do a GOOD job of patching it up. Iam going to go all out on this frame....it needs to last!! and no I have never heard of drilling a hole at the end of a crack to stop it from continueing....but you know, that actually is a very good idea. it makes sense to me. it would have to start over, the crack would need to begin agian, it wouldnt have any "momentum" i guess you could say...
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Senior User
Joined: May 2007
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That is correct. Drill a hole at the end of the crack and it will prevent the crack from traveling any farther. Then grind a "v" into the crack and weld.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,806
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From: Piney Woods of East Texas
Drilling a hole at the end of the crack does work. What it does is forces the stress to distribute through the hole which has more area. You can still split the frame out even drilled.
I would drill, then grind a v-notch through the crack to make it easier to weld. I would use a 7018 low hydrogen rod. These are very strong and are not prone to cracking. I would also add a saddle patch to beef it up. Ideally you would like to weld the crack from both sides. What is inside the frame? Brake lines...
Good luck, do let it go, it will just get worst. It looks like it has propergrated about 1" past, may be scale or paint.
I would drill, then grind a v-notch through the crack to make it easier to weld. I would use a 7018 low hydrogen rod. These are very strong and are not prone to cracking. I would also add a saddle patch to beef it up. Ideally you would like to weld the crack from both sides. What is inside the frame? Brake lines...
Good luck, do let it go, it will just get worst. It looks like it has propergrated about 1" past, may be scale or paint.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 75
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From: SO CAL
ok guys, Iam going to purchase a pair of L and L fenderwell headers from broncograveyard, once i find a manufacturer who makes the rest of the pipes and exhaust from the headers back to the tail pipe. but Iam getting headers, which will open lots of room for the fix. Iam then goin to take it to a buddy to have it all fixed up, supprted, and bracketed up.
I want to say THANK YOU to everyone who gave their 2 cents. especially masterbeavis, I had no clue about broncograveyard. they are great.
thanks a lot guys.
I want to say THANK YOU to everyone who gave their 2 cents. especially masterbeavis, I had no clue about broncograveyard. they are great.
thanks a lot guys.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,037
Likes: 9
From: Kasson, Minnesota
That was a lot of frame to cut out for a manifold. People should just do things right the first time. But, at least you noticed the cracked frame early enough without major problems. Clean that part up and get it reinforced and shouldn't have a problem.
Broncograveyard is a great site.
Broncograveyard is a great site.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,312
Likes: 1
From: Eldorado Ca. USA
I don't think anybody makes a set weld up pipes that fit the headers. Your best bet is to go to an exhaust shop and have some 2.25 or 2.5" mandrel bent pipes welded up. Its gunna cost you $4-600+ to get it done.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,181
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From: Across from the neighbors
I had the same prob with my supercab. But with mine they cut the top and bottom of the frame rail. I cut pieces and weldedback in to make the rail look factory then boxed it. I also had the crack problem. I drilled the end out and plug welded it then v notched it and welded it up. I got a cheap set of headers from flowtech cause its just a work truck. They ran me bout $184
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 172
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From: Milton Canada
I can't imagine why anyone would cut a notch like that without doing something to further support the frame in that area. A simple piece of plate folded over to cover as much of the top as possible and give extra rigidity to the side to minimize flex would be all that's required. Obviously cutting the frame should be avoided, but if you take a bit of time to ensure it maintains it's structural strength, it can be done without issues like this occuring.