How hard is it to add remote/keyless entry to a '98 XLT? At this point I don't even know where the control module would be located. Have hopes that the XLT might be prewired to allow a simple plug in & go. I'm used to using a remote on my E150 & have a new spare remote lying around.

Has anyone upgraded an XLT to keyless remote & got tips to share?

 

My 98 XLT has it, sure yours doesn't and just has no remotes? Have you done the programming entry procedure to see if it responds? I know the subject of adding factory remote has been covered here several times. Seems like the consensus was it wasn't worth the trouble to those interested. By the way, IF your F150 responds to the programming entry just hit the button on your van remote. The remote will work for the van or the F. My remote is programmed to 2 F150's, 2 E250's an my wife's Mustang.

 

I am still mulling adding keyless remote.
Anyone have an idea about what is involved if you
have power door locks?

 

No, but I'm sure its not listed on the window sticker or '98 FORD brochure's 507A XLT package.

No, I have not "done the programming entry procedure" although I'd heard its worth a try & many years of FORD remotes can talk to each other. However I doubted this bridged from '92 E150 to '98 F150 & did not readily find my photocopy of the remote programming instructions. Recall there were several different remotes described & don't recall how to reprogram, even though I did it when I got the new remote for the '92. Now I have a spare newer NOS remote. Will renew effort to locate the instructions, unless you have a link?

Yes, it would be sweet to find out a module is hibernating in there. Wouldn't mind having both trucks & remotes on the same channel.

Its funny how we're trained by habits in vehicles. I'd learned that you need to close power windows before you turned the key off from several vehicles. Somehow, amongst all I've read about the 50th Anniversary F-Series I'd missed the inclusion of a delay giving you a bit of time to run power windows after the key is off.

The rental car I had last month had the stereo run until you opened the door.

Where is the remote entry module?

PS: Found remote instructions, no response from XLT from 2 of the 3 possible procedures to try, 3rd was a dealer program & both remotes look wrong. Have type 2 & 7, need type 6.

How about a bloody delay for interior lights, instead of plunging into darkness?

 

Kind of a long read but I just posted this reply earlier today in another thread ( titled getting excited) - the keyless module is located straight above your left foot under the dash. Its either a milky white color or gray box slightly smaller than a CD case and about 1.5 inches thick. If you get your head down by the brake pedal and look up you'll see it. Not all trucks came with them and in that case it would be a bit of a job wiring one in. They did change the remote frequencies, programming procedure and key fob style in 98 although the plugs and wiring into the module are identical except for one ground wire. For keyless in your setup going with an aftermarket alarm would probably be the easiest and cheapest way to add keyless entry.

Quote:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset">Originally Posted by duggyb
how hard/expensive is it to install just power locks and keyless entry in a 1997 F150 XL?


do i need to change door panels?...or can i just cut them and install a switch...or go with no switches(and just use FOB)

is there anything under the dash i need?

prefferabley i would like power locks and keyless entry...on my current doorpanels...and hopefully nothing under the dash.

can it be done?

THNX
Duggy
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>


Well, Its not going to be a cake walk for what I'm doing but its deffinitly doable - it depends on what you're looking for. The easiest and cheapest way for the keyless entry would probably be to go the aftermarket route with a simple alarm system and aftermarket actuators etc. This route would allow you to install the wires under the dash - rather than behind it with a stock setup which gets to be pretty labor intensive.

What I'm doing is going all OEM - I got a wire harness from a donor truck that goes from one door all the way accross behind the dash to the other door with no connectors or breaks so I have to take out my entire dash to install the factory wires. This harness has a wireless module that plugs into it thats mounted up under the dash that I will have to install as well - the wire harness then has 3 plugs that hook into the main dash harness. There are SEVERAL wires missing from the main dash harness to these three plugs that you'll have to splice in yourself from the proper circuits. (for instance a starter interrupt relay, a lock anti theft switch, park/backup lights for anti theft module, etc.) I have the connector pins that will simply snap into my existing 3 connectors so I can wire up these circuits so I'm essentially adding in these wires from the missing factory splice to the connector.

No matter what the route there would be some wiring involved - going with an aftermarket alarm/lock system they may have detailed instructions on where to splice the wires without taking the dash out and simply running the wires underneath the dash, probably the easiest and cheapest way. You can also go to best buy or some electronics store and price out installation costs etc.

The reason I"m going factory is that I want a stock look, if parts fail in the future there will be parts available and it will be relatively easier to troubleshoot where the problem is. A factory service manual DVD is crucial to this project to trace the circuits unless you also swap out the entire dash harness where you wouldn't have to add splices - simply change all the wiring in the cab which is a big job too pulling out all those wires! I have started to put a couple pics in my gallery to explain the process too so check them out. It'll give you a better idea of whats involved going the stock route.

 

You know onto the subject of keyless with an XLT - the factory wiring diagrams showed power windows/doors/mirrors/ with and then without the RAP module (remote anti-theft personality module) which is the keyless entry/alarm system. It seems silly they'd have two separate wiring harnesses for these systems. Why not have the same wire harness and just opt out of plugging the RAP module in? You'd think that could be cheaper and also entice buyers to upgrade in the future and spend even more money. Then it could be a simple plug in and go. You wouldn't think the extra starter interrupt relay, ignition anti theft switch, and lights wiring would add too much to the overall cost vs. commonality of parts - and simple upgrade options.

 

Thanks montanafordman, that confirms it, looks like I'm zhit out of luck, my XLT has lots of empty space, but no sign of the "keyless module" you described, or an extra multipin plug gussied up, that I could find. Somehow I got the idea the module was behind the B-pillar?

I agree "It seems silly" unfortunately it also seems true! I got no remote, no harness to hook a module into & no desire to pull the dash out.

 

For what it's worth......

I had the keyless remote door locks added to my '99 F-150 XL for $25.00 a door while the alarm company was installing the alarm. $50.00 for remote keyless locks seemed to be a pretty good deal to me at the time.... and still does.

 

Avator,
Who put in your remote/alarm, a body shop
or a stereo installer or other?

 

If you decide to go the "aftermarket" route, see my post here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...and-locks.html