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O.K. here it goes. Bought a 460 on good old reliable evil bay, said 460 from 1974 town car with 78,000 miles, picked it up this morning, was already removed from car, car was crushed. Here's where my problem may be, no harmonic damper or v-belt pulley. I also discovered this is a reman engine, found the serial #. How can I be sure it's internal balance? Compression is all over 95 and high as 120 on all cyclinders. These are the # I have found, Intake D6VE, Heads D3VE, Block D1VE, Egr plate D7VE, Carb D7VE, A.C. comp D2VA. Right now I,m assuming it Internal, but how can I tell???????????? Also it has the 2 part dist cap.
Thanks and have a great day.
ARMSTRONGFORDTRUCKS
Last edited by armstrongfordtrucks; Oct 28, 2007 at 06:12 PM.
HEY MAN!!! ive got a question for you...it might be stupid but ive was wondering...
Ive gone to pittsburgh a couple of times this year and each time i do, i always take one 2 lane road after a little while after the Allegheny state park and im always seeing like 3-4 nice 70's ford trucks probably on 33-35" tires and i think it might be near where you are from or maybe you know what im talking about...it almost seems like they were green red brown and black but i cant really remember.
unless someone has switched the crankshafts it's an internal balanced engine. the external balanced engines would have D9TE for a block casting number. That is assuming factory of coarse.
it should be internal balance, but you could tell for sure by the crank casting number... drop the oil pan and look on the crank. if there is a 2 or 2u then its internal balance, if its a 3yab its external, if its a 4u then its an internal balance 429... being a reman engine there could be anything in it.
Re seal and re-ring that motor before you run it. If it is a low(er) mileage rebuild, hopefully there is no ring at the top of the cylinder walls. Judging by your compression test numbers, your engine failed. Engines are allowed a tolerance range of 10% between the highest and lowest cylinders. With that said, a compression test on a motor that has been sitting is not fair to the engine, its supposed to be warmed up. When you did the test, did you do it dry, then wet? While you have the motor apart, send the heads off to get a 3 angle valve job, pocket porting, stainless steel valves, and good upgraded springs for that better cam you are going to put in. A early or EFI double roller timing chain is in order too.
I agree it is unfair to compression test for a dry sitting engine and know from past it is actually better warm but just needed to see if comp was ok. I just need this engine to get me thru winter snow plowing. My plans are to rebuild the one that is in the truck now but my head man needs lots of time to work on it as he has two jobs and will do my valve job at his leasure. FREE
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