This morning was our first frost, 27 degrees. I bought this rig in April, so cold starts and warmup are new to me. Started fine, but the EBPV seemed to be cycling way too long. After I was a few miles down the road, I could still feel the EBPV closing when I was not under much load. Normally opens up and stays open after a mile or two. Step on it and it would open, let off and it would close. After about 5 or 6 miles, I was starting to get worried as the temp guage was getting up toward normal and defroster heat was cranking so I knew the motor was warm. I watched my pyro and boost and never ran it hard, but the motor was warm and the valve was still wanting to close. It was dark, so when I got to town I pulled over under a light and unplugged the EBPV. Runs fine unplugged. I want to do the brake mod anyway, so this isn't a big deal, the real question is why does this happen and if I just unplug it and use it for a brake aid am I ignoring the real problem? All the EBPV threads I've read say to just unplug it, nobody ever discusses why it malfunctions and how to fix it. It definately seems that some temp sensor must be reading ambient instead of motor temp and telling the valve to close. I have read about a tube getting packed with soot and cleaning it out with weed eater line. Any thoughts?

 

As far as I can tell these were a bad idea. I'm guessing there is a thermal switch that activates it.Chances are thar switch is bad. I can't see any underlying issues that should concern you. I've had mine undone for two years with no ill effect. I live in NY where we get pretty cold in the dead of winter. No prblems yet. Make it a brake and never look back!

Dave

 

my epbv stays on for five or six miles as well but not until it gets below 15° and I forget to plug it in.

 

The Air Intake Temp sensor is in the stock air cleaner box and just thrown to the side if you have a 6637. Thats what tells the pcm when to open and close the ebpv when its cold out. I wired mine up to function normally (stock) when the switch is off and I can manually turn it on when pulling or idling and want it to warm up. It serves its funtion in warming up the motor and does it well as long as the roads are dry (can be very dangerous locking up the back tires).

The valve itself gets carbon build up on it and when it shuts it cannot open back up. I tried to clean my ebp tube with weed eater string......... ya right that stuff was so hard bailing wire and pb blaster couldnt touch it. I got a new one from ford for ~$40 but I'm still getting the 047?.... code so I am going to find a cheapo ebay sensor to replace mine.

Once the engine warns up the pcm knows not to shut the valve. But I have driven in really cold weather where the motor actually cools back off and the valve tries to warm everything back up.

Hope this helps you out but I wouldnt lose sleep over it

 

if it startes sticking you can just unplug it and you will be fine.

it's the plug that is at the front driver side of the turbo.its a 2 wire plug.
the wires come out of the harness inbetween the 2 VC plugs and going to the back driver side of the turbo.

the ebpv can get to be a big pain after they start sticking

 

yours is acting normal, when its really cold out they will cycle on and off, it should go off when you get aproximatly 1\8 throttle. if it stays on then it is sticking but what you described sounds normal

 

Thanks guys. Like I said above, I want to do the brake mod anyway, I mainly wanted to see if there is a bigger problem that I'd be ignoring or if this was normal.

 

As said all is fine, On my last IH bus with the 444E it would cycle for the first hour of the run.

 

i would recommend the ebp gauges as neal did, it would be a good thing to keep an eye on while using it

 

Ok, I'm having the same problem as MagKarl. For the first 20-30 minutes of driving time the valve closes anytime I hold the throttle steady all the way up to 2500 rpm. Increase or decrease the throttle and it opens, but only until the rpm's are steady again.

It's not like the valve is sticking as any throttle change and it open instantly.

But even after the engine is warmed up the damn thing is always closing while I'm driving. At about 2500 rpm it is really loud.

Whould the problem be the temp sensor in the air box or a clogged ebp tube or bad ebp sensor?

How would I check the sensors? What is the right resistance to be reading accross the temp sensor at lets say 50 degrees? How would I check the ebp sensor?

I've read many different "ebpv" threads and can't find how to check the sensors to find the bad part and replace it.

 

I like my ebp gauge but I think either the heat or the bouncing is too much. My gauge just went out 2 days ago. I am trying to verify it is gauge.