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I HAVE 150,00MI ON THE ORIGINAL CLUTCH AND AM LOOKING TO REPLACE IT & WAS WONDERING WHAT U GUYS HAVE USED. ADVANCE AUTO HAS A KIT BY 'PERFECTION CLUTCH' THAT SELLS FOR AROUND $100. iT HAS 4 SPRINGS ON THE CLUTCH DISK, RHINO HAS A KIT WITH 5 SPRINGS ON THERE DISK AS OTHERS. DOES THAT MATTER? ANYBODY USE A FENCO DYNAPAK?
I have personally used the Perfection Clutch brand and it works great. I personally haven't used the other two. I wanted to put a Centerforce on mine due to the fact that i have a little more horse than stock.
thanks for the reply. I like the kit because it comes with everything, but am getting tired of working on the truck now. I'm putting in a new gas tank, replacing the body mount bolts and welding the frame where needed-lots of rust.
I got lucky with mine it is a 87 Eddie Bauer and it is a Florida truck so no rust and it is in great shape, body wise, Mechanically i needed to take out the auto and put in a standard and i also rebuilt the engine at that time too. the Interior needs a little TLC but im currently working on that
Yeah I'm hanging on to mine-best truck I ever owned...goes anywhere, good on gas, and a lot more comfortable than my cj (which I love riding topless with no doors, headers & a three speed). Oh well gotta get back to the cellar, works not gettin done here.
When I put the new clutch in mine (148,000), I went with the direct replacement from NAPA as I figured the original was plenty good. Only changed the clutch because I changed the tranny... Fenco has been around for years and years, so being an old hot rodder, I would go with them, but I haven't heard of the others...
Any of those clutches are fine; I've used them and installed them. Check the flywheel, you will at least need it resurfaced; I just buy a new one most times. Personally I don't use a stock 2.9L clutch anymore. It is pretty weak but does fine for a stock truck in most applicatons. If you are going to use the truck hard or install bigger tires this is the way to go. Buy a pre-97 flywheel for a 4.0L and a 4.0 clutch kit. The only little catch is you need a 4.0L starter and then you need to rewire the starter. Don't be afraid this is not hard. All you need to do is run a battery cable to the starter and run a 12ga wire from the original starter solenoid post to the starter solenoid. This will give you about a 30% stronger clutch and a better starter. That is another option that works very well.
Matt, just read your post and my first inclination is to just getter done. I don't like to make any changes because of Murphy's law which always seems to take affect when I start something. My original plan was to put a new exhaust pipe on 3 weeks ago. Then I noticed the gas tank was pretty rusty so down it came with a lot of problems-busted knuckles etc...after scraping & rust proofing& welding new plates & finally getting a new gas tank & straps back in place I'm ready to quit but I know I should put the clutch in with a new rear main seal cause I got a puddle on the floor now. So I think I'll just put in a fenco performance kit along with a new flywheel like you suggested even though mine seems just fine. Is there a min. thickness spec on the flywheel like a brake rotor? I might just put a dial indicator on it first and if it's not warped or beyond tolerance just let it be since I don't run it hard. Thanks for the tip though.
> with a new flywheel like you suggested even though mine seems just fine.
You need to resurface (turn) the flywheel when doing a clutch because it pretty much wears just like a rotor/pad set up. Otherwise the clutch will slip/grab funny/wear. If you are not going 4.0 stuff, the 2.9L flywheel reman is only $40.00. Even though the starter is pretty easy on a 2.9L, I probably would put a reman in at the same time.
> with a new flywheel like you suggested even though mine seems just fine.
You need to resurface (turn) the flywheel when doing a clutch because it pretty much wears just like a rotor/pad set up. Otherwise the clutch will slip/grab funny/wear.
If you dont get it turned the new clutch can and more than likely will chatter
A flywheel isn't turned, it is ground. There is a runout on a flywheel but more importantly the thickness. Really anymore you can get a new flywheel for a few bucks more than getting yours machined. Don't put a new clutch on a worn flywheel. Not only will it grab and such but it will wear your clutch faster. There is a wear pattern already set by the old clutch. The rear main can sometimes be fun. I've had a few that were really in there that came out in a few pieces.
You turn it to grind it while advancing the stone, just like you turn a rotor while advancing the carbide or diamond. The only difference is one is usually done horz. with coolant and the other vert.
Turn, grind, resurface, it all means the same thing.
if the flywheel has no cracks then it will be cheaper to get it resurfaced,i had mine done for $25.and alot cheaper than buying a new or reman flywheel..which i would think it would be more than $100 bucks.
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