1969 Ford Cummins Crew Cab Conversion
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 412
Likes: 13
From: Vacaville, California
So all is not so simple...
I'm trying to determine if my front output yoke will clear this area without modification. As it is the trans needs to come down by about 1.000" so that the top of the TC clears the cab floor support beam or clearance the beam would be the other option. If I lower the trans, then I will have to lower the x-member or re-fabricate for front yoke clearance.
I'll get back to it in the morning....
I'm trying to determine if my front output yoke will clear this area without modification. As it is the trans needs to come down by about 1.000" so that the top of the TC clears the cab floor support beam or clearance the beam would be the other option. If I lower the trans, then I will have to lower the x-member or re-fabricate for front yoke clearance.
I'll get back to it in the morning....
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 412
Likes: 13
From: Vacaville, California
Looking at the x-member it looks like if I weld in a half round and rotate the NP205 clockwise (from the rear) I might just get the CV joint to clear.
Hmmmm.... off to fabricating I go! Heck if it doesn't look good I'll scrap it...
Start over with some boxed tubing!
Stock mounting location....
Rotated location.....
It's all fun and games when you work with cardboard!
Hmmmm.... off to fabricating I go! Heck if it doesn't look good I'll scrap it...
Start over with some boxed tubing!Stock mounting location....
Rotated location.....
It's all fun and games when you work with cardboard!
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 412
Likes: 13
From: Vacaville, California
So it all starts as a simple output seal replacement... then you find a suspect bearing... then you start looking at the cost of seals and a single bearing vs a complete rebuild kit and this is how the day ends...
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 412
Likes: 13
From: Vacaville, California
OK.... so I get the Advanced Adapter kit to mate a 29 spline male output ( Dodge NV4500 5spd) to a 31 spline female Ford (NP205) input shaft. And I must say that it didn't give me that warm fuzzy feeling that the AA spud shaft wouldnt be the weak link! It was thinest at the taper due to being square bored in the internal spline.
So I started looking at options again.... I decided that I really like the thought of using the Dodge NP205 29 spline input, so I called AA to see if they had any thicker spacer rings then the 1.600" that comes with the kit? Nope! But they are sending me another spacer ring in return for the kit supplied spud shaft. So I will mate the two spacer rings, use the 29 spline NP205 input shaft and a stock Dodge 29 spline coupler.
Dodge 29 spline....
Ford 31 spline....
I was going to have to replace the Ford input anyway.... to much rust for me!
So I started looking at options again.... I decided that I really like the thought of using the Dodge NP205 29 spline input, so I called AA to see if they had any thicker spacer rings then the 1.600" that comes with the kit? Nope! But they are sending me another spacer ring in return for the kit supplied spud shaft. So I will mate the two spacer rings, use the 29 spline NP205 input shaft and a stock Dodge 29 spline coupler.
Dodge 29 spline....
Ford 31 spline....
I was going to have to replace the Ford input anyway.... to much rust for me!
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 412
Likes: 13
From: Vacaville, California
Ya.... I can't believe it either!
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 412
Likes: 13
From: Vacaville, California
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 412
Likes: 13
From: Vacaville, California
Well, I'm waiting for some TC parts from JB Conversions that were being held up by hurricane Ike... so I started stripping the interior so I can take it down next Monday (22nd) to get spray lined. Then I will have the front and rear glass re-installed. I will then be able to start re-wiring the truck, as well as assembling misc. other functions, like steering and brakes.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 412
Likes: 13
From: Vacaville, California
So as far as the interior plan goes...
Welding interior seams, grinding and sealing.
The majority of the interior will be spray lined, mostly for the sound deadening effects. Still going to have carpet, headliner, ect.
Will fab aluminum gauge panel insert for a full compliment of mechanical gauges. All switched functions will be via toggle and relay circuits.
Wiring harness from EZ-wire.
Seats are undecided at this moment. Might have to go with the standard milk crate till I get a plan!
Thats about it for now....
When I get the truck back from Line-X, I'll continue the NP205 install with the Dodge input shaft.
Welding interior seams, grinding and sealing.
The majority of the interior will be spray lined, mostly for the sound deadening effects. Still going to have carpet, headliner, ect.
Will fab aluminum gauge panel insert for a full compliment of mechanical gauges. All switched functions will be via toggle and relay circuits.
Wiring harness from EZ-wire.
Seats are undecided at this moment. Might have to go with the standard milk crate till I get a plan!
Thats about it for now....
When I get the truck back from Line-X, I'll continue the NP205 install with the Dodge input shaft.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 6,221
Likes: 6
From: Cow Town, CA
thats gana look interesting untill you get the carpet and headliner in... will the side of the cab be spray lined? or jsut the top and bottom?
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 6,993
Likes: 15
From: Costa Mesa, CA
I plan on doing both the inside and underside of mine. Up the firewall on both sides, and probabyl up the back wall on both sides. Still deciding where to "cut" it along the side - but I most likely won't go up the B-pillars at all.
You thinking kind of the same thing - or less spray?
You thinking kind of the same thing - or less spray?