I concur. $10 and 20 minutes and you might be done. There is a great special tool for getting the IPR out. It is a 1 1/8" 1/2" drive deep socket with a short handle welded onto it like a chainsaw wrench. Take it out, put the new o-rings on it and put it back in. Simple as that. Get the new o-rings at an International dealer.

 

Absolutely! I run BDP sticks and the o-rings were bad on them with minimal miles. Bean had a string of bad o-rings on his sticks for awhile, don't think its an issue any longer.....

Cowboy Steve

 

Thanks guys. I'm going to pull the IPR this weekend and replace the o-rings. Hopefully that is it.

 

Okay here is an update. I pulled the IPR out and replaced the o-rings and cleaned it. It runs a little rough right now but I am guessing it is because there is air in the system. How long do you have to run it to bleed the air out? Oh, and I did refill the HPOP tank back up. I am kind of afraid to drive it to far because it acts like it is going to die. I started to drive it but only went around the block then parked it and shut it off now it won't start again. I guess it is time to start pulling the valve covers back off and check things out.

If the injector o-rings are bad they will leak around the injectors right? Anything else I need to check besides the valve cover harness? I don't have a code scanner that works on the Powerstroke so I don't know if there are any codes. The check engine light is not on and I did put my old CPS back in to see if it made a difference but it didn't.
Thanks for your help guys. I really don't want to take it to a shop. I can do the work myself if I can just figure out what the problem is.

 

It usually only takes a good full throttle run to bleed the system of the air. It can take awhile to get the truck started once air is introduced into the oil system. My truck took 30 minutes before it fired up after I did the HPOP install(s) You might look at putting a charger on your batts because prolonged cranking will drain them down and with air in the system you need all the juice you can to keep rollin that hog over.

Did you already pull the VC's and check for oil leaking around the injectors?

Cowboy Steve

 

You can isolate the problem with an anologue guage if you wish,,,If its in the HP system....

Here is what is needed to put a gauge together thanks to Swamps site.

If you don't have access to a scantool, then go to your local hydraulic supply
house, and have them make you up a mechanical gauge. You might spend $60
or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled
gauge....but having this hose available for future diagnostics might be more
valuable than you think.
The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for
(minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating!) with the gauge on
one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the
head to the hose.
This single fitting will be a 90degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called #
5 o-ring) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90.
Our local hydraulic shop would label such a fitting as 5MB-6MJ90
"JIC" is nothing special...it's just 'hydraulic talk' for a 37degree flare
fitting...standard hydraulic stuff here...nothing rare by any stretch.
Looking at the top of (either) cylinder head, you'll see the factory stainless
braided oil lines (one to each head) then you'll see a few bronze colored
plugs... (Engine off, of course) Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the
bronze plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for
reinstallation , after testing). and the O-rings are reusable, unless brittle,
cracked, etc...
The single 90deg fitting will have a "jamb nut" on the O-ring side...screw the
fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes,
etc...and then tighten the jamb nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90
from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No
sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and
don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight...

 

Powerstroked162,

No I haven't pulled the valve covers off yet. I was going to do that this weekend. I have had the charger on the batteries all night so I'll try and get her cranked over today. It did fire yesterday but ran rough then wouldn't refire. I'll try and get it fired up today.

Action4478,
Thanks for the info on the fittings. It makes sence to me I work in a sawmill and work with hydraulic crap a lot of the time. I'll put something together and test it out if I can't get it refired.

I'm going to check fuel pressurewhile cranking on it if it doesn't fire. What was the pressure supposed to be while cranking?

Thanks guys.

 

The guage will work while cranking

 

Here is some more info:


Individual HP Oil rail manual pressure test - build a hand rail pressure pump consisting of a high quality lever (not pistol) type grease gun as the pump, a high pressure shutoff valve, a high pressure (3000 PSI) hydraulic gauge, a length of 1/4" hydraulic hose and a #5 ORB connector.

• Fill the hand pump with a good diesel engine oil
  
• Disconnect the HP oil supply line to one head, at the head by removing the fitting from the head
  
• Connect the hand oil pressure pump to the rail where the supply hose was connected
  
• Pressurize the rail to 3,000 PSI by pumping the pump. (It is pretty easy to do this with a good pump.)
  
• Close the hand valve and watch the pressure reading on the gauge. The HP oil system should maintain the pressure. (In a bench top environment, the HP oil system will hold 3,000 PSI for days.)
  
• Repeat for the other head/rail.
  
• It is useful to compare hot engine and cold engine results. They should be the same.
  

• Remove the valve covers on one or both heads
  
• Pressurize the oil rail's with the hand pump as described above - inspect the interface between the injectors and their bores for oil leakage - inspect the injector oil exhaust ports for oil leakage
  

 

Okay here is the latest. Just for the heck of it I changed the oil and now she fires right up. Here is the story. Back at the end of September I changed the oil and filter before I left to go deer hunting. The truck seemed to run fine. When I got home a week later the water pump started leaking. I changed the water pump and then a few days later the truck wouldn't start which brings us to the problem I have been having. Somewhere in that time I had noticed that it was atking a little longer for it to fire up but I'm not sure exactly when I noticed it. I didn't put much thought into it at the time but my wife said when she drove it right after I changed the oil she noticed it. This was right before I went hunting.

So then I thought maybe there is something going on with the oil. I normally run Mobile Delvac 15W/40 in it. Have been for a few years. When I chabged it last they didn't have enough Mobile at the store so I bought Delo SAE 30. I looked on the Dieselman website and see that the SAE 30 is not approved for the picky Powerstroke so started thinking maybe that is the problem. I changed the oil yesterday and sucked all the oil out of the HPOP and refilled it with Mobile Delvac 15W/40, drove the truck for a while then shut it off and restarted it about ten times. Now it fires right up. Can you believe that? Anyway so my next question is, how long does it take for the oil to circulate through the HPOP res? I'm thinking it takes a little while which is why I didn't have problems until after I drove it for a while. My second question is, do I trust it? I will be leaving to go elk hunting for a week next week and I'm unsure if I should take the old girl or drive my Toyota over there. What do you think?

Thanks for your help
Mark

 

Did you read about oil areation? (spelling)....

 

Read this.....

 

Thanks! All I can say is WOW! That is bad! That would explane a lot. I wonder what the SAE 30 Delo does? I would bet it gets a lot of air in it judging by my experience. Thanks for the info. That really helps me understand.

 

Okay guys, I still had a problem with it starting sometimes so I went in and did what I was dreading. I started pulling injectors out. Low and behold the second one I pulled out had a broken top o-ring. You guys are so smart. Thank you. I know that is what you told me in the begining but you know how that goes. Sometimes what you don't want it to be it is and you have to figure it out. I really didn't think they could be bad already but it must have got pinched when I put the injector in and finally blew through. I replaced the o-rings in the injectors that I pulled out and it is now running like a champ again. I will never doubt your advice again.

Thanks again guys.
Mark