Where to buy the line between clutch master and slave cylinder
#1
#7
You can make your own. Go to the parts store and look through their brake parts catalog (if they have one) and find a brake hose about the right length. Usually one from the brake line to the rear axle will work. Then get a couple of short lines with ends on them and buy fittings to connect them to the hoses.
jt
jt
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#8
If you make your own and it's a straight line...no problemo...as long as the flared ends of the new line match your original...and sometimes they don't.
If it has bends you'll need a tubing bender. You'll prolly have to cut the line if it's too long, and if the flared ends of the new tube don't match, you'll also need a flaring tool.
If it has bends you'll need a tubing bender. You'll prolly have to cut the line if it's too long, and if the flared ends of the new tube don't match, you'll also need a flaring tool.
#9
There will need to be a flexible section in it somewhere, the engine moves around and a solid line will soon fatigue and break. If you can find out the size fittings needed at the ends you can adapt them to -AN fittings and use a braided stainless flex line. -4AN is the right size for a clutch line.
#12
#13
I had the same problem when I went to replace the line from the Clutch master to the slave. I used a front brake flexible line and just built a small bracket for each end. The front flex line was off a later model ford with front disk brakes. I chose this flex line because it had fitting on both ends for brackets and steel lines. One bracket is bolted to the bell-housing bolt and has about a three-inch steel line to the slave. The other bracket is bolted to the firewall just below the clutch and brake masters. Then there is a short piece of steel line going to the clutch master. That settup was in use for about 7 years before the truck was torn down for a total restoration. I will be going back to the same method when I get the cab back on the frame.
Cyrus
_____________________
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, thoroughly used, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming... HELL YEAH!!! What a Ride!
Cyrus
_____________________
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, thoroughly used, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming... HELL YEAH!!! What a Ride!
#14
59terry
Here is what I did.Buy a new brake line about a foot longer than you need,Bend to fit slave cylinder and just before it reaches the master rap around a spray can.That will give you some flex for motor movement.I did it and it looks great and works fantistic.That fix cost about 4.00 dollars.
Terry
Terry
Last edited by 59Terry; 10-03-2008 at 05:04 PM. Reason: Added
#15
1957/60 Hydraulic Clutch Line F100/950
B7TZ7A512A .. Hydraulic Clutch Tube Assy-Clutch Master Cylinder to Slave Cylinder / Fits: 1957/60 F100/950.
Who said no one has any new ones? I found SIX in less than a minute.
And, they are genuine Ford originals.
Parts International in Farmers Branch TX has TWO = 888-727-0418
Bob Allen Ford in Overland Park KS has TWO = 800-676-0675
Kinsel L/M in Beaumont TX has TWO = 800-816-2894.
Info source: 1957/63 Ford Truck Parts Catalog / Section 75 / Page 1127.
Who said no one has any new ones? I found SIX in less than a minute.
And, they are genuine Ford originals.
Parts International in Farmers Branch TX has TWO = 888-727-0418
Bob Allen Ford in Overland Park KS has TWO = 800-676-0675
Kinsel L/M in Beaumont TX has TWO = 800-816-2894.
Info source: 1957/63 Ford Truck Parts Catalog / Section 75 / Page 1127.
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