I've seen post asking what engine I have etc. What I want to know is this. I have a 352 in a 1968 swb Ranger w/ automatic tranny and I want to rebuild it. Hop it up a little bit. Cam, pistons,heads, headers etc. I read somewhere that I could go to a machine shop and get a rebuild kit to my spec's (?). I don't want a pavement eating, tire chewin' monster (well....) but I want it to stand up and take notice when I hit the pedal. I need advice as to type of cam (rv etc.), do I want to look at replacing the rearend, I could think of a million of 'em. An example of what someone else has done would be great. I don't have unlimited funds so it will take me a while to assemble parts and pieces. Also any idea where to order catalogs for afore mentioned parts.

Thanks
Eric

 

Hi Eric and welcome to FTE! I'm sure the collective knowledge from all the friendly members here will get you on your way pronto! You have a neat truck, not to many SB Rangers in '68. One question though, are you sure it is a 352? In '68 it was dropped from production and the 360 took its place. Personally I think the 352 was a better engine.

Welcome again!

Barry

 

Eric,

To my knowledge the 352 was dropped from production in either '67 or '68 for the 360. Basic "hop up" Parts consist of flat top pistons,cam,headers, high flow mufflers, alum. intake, 4v carb.
An RV cam sounds like what you want. A holley or edelbrock carb are good choices, a 650 cfm carb should work nicely. Any brand of headers work well, but coated ones last alot longer. As far as rebuild kits go, stick with good name brand parts, remember you get what you pay for. Now for rear end gears,look at the metal tag on the center section of the diff. You probably have the same ratio I had (3.25 to 1) 3.55 or 3.73 are good choices, 4.11 is a good ratio if you don't care about gas milage and what good of the line take off. You might want to cosider an Auburn high perf. limited slip diff.. Jegs and Summit mail order catalogs have alot of high perf. go fast goodies.

Randy

'69 f-100 Ranger swb/351w-c6

 

blueEric- your 352 can use almost any goody designed for a 390 or 360.I think headers would be your best start-coated is better-I have JR's, I have heard Stans and Sandersons are easier to install. After that, when valve job time comes, how about replacing your exhaust valves with the larger 1.65 ex valves from the 428CJ ? Your machine shop can do this, and on a '68 you may need new ex valves anyway, the ex's wear out faster than the intakes. For a cam try little more duration with a bunch more lift, buy new springs if your new cam requires stronger ones.For an intake, the RPM performer is great, the regular performer runs out of breath to soon for me. If you like, Ford Power Parts sells a reproduction 'police interceptor' aluminum intake #4267-B,thats what I'm running. If you really want to wake it up, bore it 050 and get yourself a 390 crank and pistons, the longer stroke helps alot, especially at low speeds. What about your ignition? You need to go electronic and dump your original points distributer as fast as you can. (sorry Tom) DF

 

I have to agree, the books all say the 352 was dumped in 67 for the 360/390.Your block probably is stamped "352" on the block below the left side head?If so, it just denotes that the 352 block was used to make FE engines, 360,390,428,etc.
I have a 68 390, original 32,000 mile engine in my 68 F-250 4x4 hi-boy.I never bored it out, but I did some work to it.It has stock 428 heads(its a T-Bird engine), I had them ported and polished, and hardened valve seats installed.I use a RV high torque cam, fluid damper harmonic balancer, roller rockers and lifters.
I run 3" straightpipe with glasspacks and Doug Thorley Hedders.An electric fan and electric water pump, weiand dual plane intake,2" carb spacer and 750 Holley double pumper(mechanical secondaries).The intake has been ported and I just installed underdrive pulleys.I have a factory windage tray and crankscaper.Theres a few other odds and ends, but it produces a dyno tested 540HP and 516lbs-ft of torque!
All together, the machine work and parts run me close to $3000.My next diabolical plans include:427 connecting rods, TRW pistons and graphite impregnated pushrods.Im trying to pull off a deal to trade a tractor for a 3x2 carb setup, and then shes getting torn down and worked over heavily.I also must add that Im on the brink of divorce, she claims I love my truck more than her.Women are so selfish, but then again shes not to far off!Just kidding.
Hope this helps out, good luck.