I have either a 352 or 360 (unknown bore as of yet but 3.5" stroke) that I want to increase compression without going to rare and expensive heads (PI, GT or SCJ). I want to mill a set of C8AE heads but I am not sure how much and still be able to use stock length pushrods. I already have an aluminum intake (aftermarket, no heart to cut a rare stock piece) and I know it needs to be milled also. This engine will be run on pump gas on the street with an automatic transmission. The rest of the engine is stock. Idealy I woulkd like to use non- adjustable rockers but I think that may be asking way too much. Any input on milling the FE heads and intake along with pushrod selection would be appreciated!

 

Before we can start guessing, can you provide a bit more information? The year of your block, dished or flat-top pistons, casting numbers of your current heads, and any idea of your current compression ratio would be a great start.

 

Head# off engine C8AE - H
Head# on engine C4AE bad exhaust threads
unknown location of block# help?

The engine is complete and was running in a 1965 F100 truck. This is not the original engine for this truck. I dropped a wood dowel down the plug hole and found the 3.5" stroke (352-360). This engine is also internally balanced. I checked another dissaembled 390 from where i got the C8AE heads (no I'm not going to rebuild this shortblock, bad rods!) to find a casting number but it's not like on the small blocks and I couldn't find a familiar casting number anywhere on it to find the number on my engine in the truck. Help! The only source of information I have (other than this forum)is "Ford Performance" by Pat Ganahl. The head# on engine in this book says it's a High Riser but my Edelbrock Performer intake bolts up and works plus the valves in the High Riser wouldn't fit in the 352-360 bore without notching. The cast iron 4 barrel intake# C4SE was on the engine when I bought the truck. The book speaks of only replacement pistons and not the stock ones for the 352 or 360. The engine is stock but I am unsure of dish or flat pistons. The chassis is being completely rebuilt and updated (dropped, P/S and power disc brakes) and I didn't want to pull the heads untill after the chassis was done. I may rethink this strategy and pull the heads and do some measuring. Any addtional thoughts that this info may give anyone would be welcome. Thanks

 

Try looking by the starter for the block number, also look by the oil filter adapter for the date code. The 360 is a truck-only engine and never came with a 4 bbl. I don’t have my books here with me but the intake sounds like a T-bird. Only problem is the T-bird never came with a 352. Is there a tag on the carburetor? Also, the distributor number can help trace the roots of this engine. If you find these numbers I can look them up for you. You might want to pull the heads anyway, the 352 passenger engine had flat tops while the 352 and 360 truck engines were dished.

Barry

 

are you sure that the 360 never had a 4 barrel from the factory? because I'm pretty sure I saw one in a 1973 or 1974 F250 highboy, I know it was a 360 for sure, and thought it was a 600 holley from the factory

 

FE427TP, you’re probably right (again). If there’s one thing I’ve learned here, it’s never say never! (Like the deal with boosters on all disc brakes.) I use my Mitchell emission manuals to sort through a lot of fuel, ignition and emission equipment quandaries, but can’t find a listing for a 4 barrel 360. Curious, did the air cleaner decal say 360 4V, was it a non-California truck? If there are more out there, I’m sure we’ll hear about it!

Creeksider, the old edition of “Ford Performance” by Pat Ganahl has quite a few errors in it, (like drilling out the oil passage from pump to filter to ½”) the newer edition cleaned up a lot of them. The “How To Rebuild Your Big Block Ford” by Steve Christ is an excellent reference you might want to check out. Your C8AE-H heads are ’68 standard 360, 390, 428 w/AIR, 68 – 71cc. The C4AE heads are ’64 –’65 352, 390, 71 – 74cc. If they were 427 High-Riser heads there would be an “F” suffix.

Barry

 

Am I really reading this? Yes you can mill the heads, but where did you get the idea that you need to mill the intake? That would be a very bad idea, as you would then have an intake that fit only one pair of heads. A better plan would be to mill an equal amount from the intake side of the head, and then your bolt holes will line up, and the manifold will fit any other pair of heads later. You will need shorter pushrods or adjustable rockers either way, 060 shorter pushrods are cheaper than adjustable rockers, cutting 060 off the heads might be a good way to go DinosaurFan

 

Barry. I don't know why you said Pat Ganahl was wrong on drilling out the oil passage from the oil pump to the filter adapter. I've been doing this since 1963 (along with the rest of the modifications) and it has helped me keep several FE motors in one piece when I was drag racing. If you know something I don't, please share it with me.
Thanks,
Skip4274
4everFord

 

skip4274, he didn't say dont drill it out, he just said dont go to 1/2", evidently not all FE's can handle it, 7/16" is the correct size to drill to without and worry of problems

 

> Am I really
>reading this? Yes you can
>mill the heads, but where
>did you get the idea
>that you need to mill
>the intake? That would be
>a very bad idea, as
>you would then have an
>intake that fit only one
>pair of heads. A better
>plan would be to mill
>an equal amount from the
>intake side of the head,
>and then your bolt holes
>will line up, and the
>manifold will fit any other
>pair of heads later. You
>will need shorter pushrods or
>adjustable rockers either way, 060
>shorter pushrods are cheaper than
>adjustable rockers, cutting 060 off
>the heads might be a
>good way to go
> DinosaurFan



Am I really reading this???? Mill the heads instead of manifold? The manifolds are MUCH more plentiful than heads, heads wear out, manifolds don't (generally speaking), are more heads being produced now than manifolds?? Edelbrock made the manifolds first then heads, Dove has how many manifolds? Blue Thunder, Ingelese, Holman Moody, I'm not sure if Don Hampton makes his own supercharger manifold or uses another brand, but only 2 of those manufacturers make heads too. (not sure if Shelby makes heads, blocks, and manifolds, I'll assume he does but am not sure so am not including them here) Manifolds are much more plentiful than heads, and a lot cheaper too. Especially a basic 390 4v manifold, besides if you mill the heads on the intake side the head width will be less and it will pull the intake face away from the V that is formed along the rail in front and behind the lifter valley in the spot where they say to put a little blob of RTV, mill the top of the block too? Manifold cuts aren't made on just the runner face, they also remove material from the bottom of the manifold so that the bolts will line up, removing material from the intake side of the head should do nothing to help a bolt line up unless the manifold can be lowered as well, now if you do not use a solid gasket and only use a bead of RTV then yes the way you suggest will work

 

Yes,FE427TP, I always use a bead of RTV instead of the end gaskets. At my place I have 4 decent manifolds and dozens of head castings laying around,mostly ordinary ones, you can be sure my C5AE-F's are not going to be cut! DinosarFan

 

YOU can mill the heads but you better not go more than .20 or you will have to mill the block, not the intake. I milled my heads .10 and had no problems.the way to tell the diff. between a 352 , 360 is the harmonic balancer, the 352 has only what appears to be a pulley, the 360 has a bigger damper on it.

 

67f250- why would any amount of head milling require any milling on the block? The intake should be left alone, and the intake face of the heads needs to be milled the same amount as the deck surface, again with a bead of RTV instead of gaskets on the ends of the intake when assembling. DF

 

My bag, i WAS wrong about the block, sorry. I guess i wasn't paying attention to what i was typing or thinking.the only time the block would need to be milled is if it was warped. any more than .20 on the heads or block the manifold will need to be done. once again, SORRY.

 

guys, when milling heads, mill the deck surface and the intake side of the head, NEVER the intake itself-am I the only machinist on this board? DF