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Old Feb 20, 2001 | 09:09 PM
  #1  
mt66ford's Avatar
mt66ford
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Well I am going to take the plunge !! Due to a busted manifold exhaust that is. Went ahead and ordered a set of heddman hedders, Any problems or suggestions ? Any help will be appreciated.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2001 | 11:19 PM
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FE427TP
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hedders

yeah, use header gaskets instead of trying to use manifold gaskets, soak the header gaskets in water for a little while overnight seems like something I read once because it will make them swell a little and somewhat softer so they will form and seal to the flange better. Also expect the passenger side collector to rub your bellhousing/dustcover flange on a manual transmission. Use the copper/silicone exhaust gasket stuff, I believe it says it's good for 700 degrees so it works best hasn't given up on me yet. Chase ALL the exhaust manifold bolts with a 3/8inch tap and use anti-sieze on every bolt expect the most difficulty in tightening on the middle 2 passenger side bolts on the bottom of the flange. you'll be glad you did later because like Jowilker (sp?) points out headers aren't as good as manifolds for sealing, so at some point gasket changes are going to happen.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2001 | 11:22 PM
  #3  
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Well I'm not sure how much this helps, but I removed a pair of Hedman headers from a FE powered 2wd in a wrecking yard. The headers were not coated, but were solid and rust free. Of coarse theres no way for me to know whether they were leaking, getting the header bolts out, were surprisingly easy. Except that the lower set of bolts probably will have to be gotten to exclusively w/ a open end/box end hand wrench because the tubes won't clear a ratchet/socket. They appeared to clear the starter, and tranny OK although it was definitely close to the starter. In getting the pipes out of the truck, the passenger side, I had to remove the starter from behind the pipes first. The drivers side was more complicated, the pipes wouldn't fit between the P/S gear and the block, and was also hemmed in by the P/B booster, and master cylinder. I had to jack the engine up off it's drivers side perch after removing the brake booster/mc to get the pipes out. So I imagine that the same will be true in reverse. I'm open to suggestions short of having my used pipes Jethot coated as far as coating them. I don't want to spend $300 getting jetcoat, w/ no warrentee since the headers are used. I've had a buddy beadblast them clean so far, and am contemplating and effective but inexpensive home coating solution. As far as installing, I'm going to have them in place before lowering motor into engine compartment, as the truck is currently engineless. Eastman coatings? any suggestions? I do have good solid manifolds and dual 2 1/4 exhaust, and can skip the headers. Also, I took these headers from a truck w/ a C6, but mine will have T18 so I'm hoping I don't have clutch linkage probs

BBT


 
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Old Feb 21, 2001 | 05:50 PM
  #4  
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hedders

BigBrown, I had the pair of headers I'm running right now in front of both a T-18 and a NP435, they clear the transmission just fine, the bellhousing rubs on the passenger side, and the clutch linkage works just fine. on a 1968 and 1972 ford pickup, one with power steering and both with manual brakes
 
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Old Mar 7, 2001 | 06:17 PM
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hedders

Headers, what a pain sometimes. now I can remove and install in a hour now. to install undo both motor mounts then on side that installing leave oppost side with nut on motor mount loose causing motor to rock over to one side a little when you lift the motor then in they go, I think for me I use CSI header gaskets because they are so much thicker than other brands. Also on the pair have now (unsure of brand) took a old set of header flanges and welded it to the orinals makeing flange twice as thick, now bolts go in so easy ,not against the starter and not touching frame rails or hitting power steering box and you can get a wrench in there. this is on a 68 Hope this helps
 
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Old Mar 7, 2001 | 09:08 PM
  #6  
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hedders

I appreciate all the help guys ! They are on the truck with suprising ease. Got me worried now they went on so easy, hard part was hooking pipes back up and aligning everything. Once again thanks for all the help.
Mike
 
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Old Mar 15, 2001 | 11:05 AM
  #7  
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hedders

In response to BigBrown. Wouldn't have been easier to take them out from underneath the truck opposed to pulling them out the top of the engine compartment.? On my 73 F-250 4x4 custom with a 49 Ford Body, My headers and exhaust have been welded as one piece and I am still able to get the headers out from the bottom of the truck. I'm not sure on how room there is in the engine compartment on a stock truck but theres gotta be alot more than mine. Although my entire frontend comes off in one piece with the lossening on 4 bolts. anyway, there are alot of good discussions here. I have gained alot of knowledge from reading the posts.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2001 | 11:01 PM
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