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i have a 95 explorer. it doesn't take gas .if you floor the pedal it blogs down to stalling out.the check engine light comes and goes. the best i can get is 2000 rpm in gear.at park can go to 5000 + rpm. i got codes for egr , o2, evr,mass,pfe,atc,..i also replace the air filter and fuel filter.change the plugs and wires. they all have been replace new. still having the same problem. i just check the code today. i got 172 , 176 , 181. the car has 156,000 went it runs it runs great. i lost. i'm thinking of throttle or ecu.
When you get multiple codes with EEC-IV, the best first place to start is to identify which are KOEO codes and resolve them first. Two types of codes are output during the KOEO test: KOEO codes and CM codes. KOEO codes are output first, then a separator pulse, then CM codes. KOEO codes represent faults that exist at the time of the test, and are almost always electrical, so they are usually the easiest to diagnose.
Once you've resolved all KOEO codes (get 111 pass from KOEO test), then move on to any KOER codes.
Another thing to look at with multiple codes is to check the computer's grounds.
oops i did a fuel pressure test it was 40 psi at idle.. and rose to 50 psi went you accelerate . i got the code with the key on no running.. gound for the computer? where would this be?
50 psi is too high, so there is something wrong with fuel delivery (or your gauge). If there are no restrictions in the return line between the Fuel Pressure Regulator FPR and the tank, you could easily have a bad FPR.
i got the code with the key on no running
As noted, there are two types of codes output during the KOEO test (that's what you performed). Re-read my post to see how to distinguish between KOEO and CM codes. Be sure to perform the KOER test before worrying about CM codes.
I'm not familiar with the engine management for a '95, but my '92 has three ground wires. I can't remember for sure, but it seems like one goes to the body and one goes straight to the battery. If you don't have a wiring diagram, you'll want to get one.
I would ignore the O2 code for now, but that MAF sensor will definitely cause poor performance and chugging. I would try cleaning that. Do you have an oiled gauze type air filter? If so, if can contribute to gunking up the MAF sensor. Why would you be thinking it might be a sensor that there is no code for. Start with the MAF, and if that doesn't take care of it, move on the the O2 sensor. When you take out the O2 sensor, check to see if it runs better. If it runs better with the O2 sensor removed, you may have a partially melted or clogged cat.
The other codes would have much less of an effect on the way the vehicle runs, though they will need to be addressed to get the vehicle back to running like it should.
hi big river.. the mass air flow has been change as well as the other sensor listed .they are all new. i just check the koer test it got a 536,538 and that it.
going to buy a new fuel pressure guage today. and recheck the pressure again.
i'm totally lost right now...
KOER 536 and 538 are almost always operator error during the KOER test. KOER 536 is a result of neglecting to press the brake immediately after engine id is output, and KOER 538 is a result of neglecting the "goose" test towards the end of the test (just before the codes are output).
Ok, your post did not exactly say that those sensors had been changed, only that there were codes for them. Since those sensors are good, I would suspect the fuel pressure regualtor is the problem. It is very possible that this problem has damaged the catalytic converter as well, but you can cross that bridge if you come to it. For now, deal with less expensive components.
If you figure it out let me know my 96 was doing the same thing I found a gasket on the uper intake egr pipe was bad, this fixed my problem for a wile now I have a fuil tank full of rust
ok i recheck the fuel pressure with a new tester. i have 30 psi at idle. with the vacuum.when you give it full thottle in drops to 10 psi. does the same in gear,
i didn't try it with vacuum off because of the bad readings. so i assume the fuel pressure regulator is bad. so that the next project
That doesn't tell me definitively that the FPR is bad. Those kind of readings could be that fuel delivery isn't able to keep up with engine demand. A clogged filter could easily explain those readings.
When the pressure is low, can you hear fuel being returned to the tank? If so then the FPR is bad.
When pressure is normal, do you hear fuel being returned to the tank? Do you still occasionally get readings too high or is the pressure "unstable"?
What do you get when you take the vacuum off of the FPR? What pressure readings do you get without the engine running (ground fuel pump test lead to keep the pump running)?
hi all i want to thank you all for your help. i replace the fpr. it got worse.the fuel pressure did a nose dive when you give it gas. with or without vacumn..
so i drop the gas tank and found that the pump was bad. the fuel line was also pinch
the hose inner lining was bad as well. the explorer is alive and kicking..
again i want to thank you all .