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Hey guy's I need to have the front end aligned on ol' yeller, she pulls slightly to the right. Question is it has a early nova front end grafted from the firewall forward, so should it just be set the the nova specs OR ???
From the looks of all the people jumping in to answer your question, I would guess that nobody else knows either.
The Nova front clip was defenatly not designed to work with anything thats grafted behind it, nor vis-versa.
I would bet money that you will have to go thru several trips to the alignment shop before you get things work.
In the meantime pay attention when you are driving, your vehicle may want to suddenly go assfirst down the road.
My guess would be try the stock Nova specs and see how it feels, seems like the best/logical place to start since it has the entire clip grafted on.
Just a thought are you sure it is alignment and not brake drag or a tire problem?
Tires, Brakes and front end parts are good. I have a slight drift ( pull ) to the right. I have plans for a 350 mi road trip next month and would like to have it going straight on the interstate. I will recheck front end parts and wheel bearings again before sending it in to align. maybe I'll try and find a oldtimer that can align to what he sees and feels, not to some specs written in a book then sends me down the road, good enough for him .
Rick, I agree with Sparky. You may want to swap the front tires and see if it stops pulling, or pulls the other way afterward. A few minutes work might save a lot of aggrevation.
A good basic starting point (assuming the clip was install straight) Would be ~-0.5> -1.5* camber (go as high as it will let you). 2.0> 4.0* caster and 1/16" total toe in.
That should be reasonably comfortable driving. Watch the tire wear for 1K miles, if wearing inside edge decrease camber 0.5* if it is wearing outside edge, increase camber (assuming you don't run out of adjustment) if the truck wants to follow every undulation or crack in the highway, increase toe-in 1/32" at a time until it is stable on a smooth flat road or only very slowly drifts right (due to road crown) so that you would not feel uncomfortable letting go of the wheel for a few seconds. If the wheels don't want to return to straight ahead after making a right angle turn without you having to deliberately steer them back, add 0.5* additional caster until they do.
Pulling and wandering can also be caused by bias ply tires.
Radials can cause a pull as well.
I would definately take the time to do the preliminary stuff before having the alignment done. Swap the front tires side to side and see if the pull follows the tire. Check air pressures on all 4 corners as well.
On the tire pull, be aware that EITHER tire can make the truck pull to the right. A radial tire pulls because the steel belt was placed slightly off center when built, causing a cone shaped profile. Think of rolling a dixie cup across the table, it wants to turn rather than roll straight. Swapping tires side to side will tell you if it is a tire pull, but won't tell you which tire it is. You have to swap off the vehicle for that. Tire pull is fairly rare these days, more likely you have an alignment issue. AFA the specs, Ax's specs are fine. Most alignment specs are pretty similar, 0 camber, plus or minus 1/2 or so, a few degrees of positive caster, and a small amount of toe. Most shops don't measure toe in fractions of an inch anymore, it's in degrees, but they'll convert it. Go to a shop that specializes in front ends and chassis work, don't go to pep boys type shop. You'll need someone who understands what each adjustment does to the trucks drivability, not just make numbers come on the screen. Uh oh, I feel a rant coming on....bye.