Ok guy's here are the numbers I have from the engine.

Block: B75929 and C7ME-A
Intake manafold: 07TE94259 and 6417
Exhaust Manafold: C5TE943C and 6J13
Crank: c4AE-A
Heads: 6J7
These are all the numbers I could find. So what do I have?

Thanks again for all your help.

cs3a

 

I am not am expert but here is what I can make of your numbers. First, you need to realize that casting numbers represent the original casting and not the machining changes. As a result an item with one casting number can be machined into several different parts or versions. To further complicate matters, the same casting number can be used on completely different parts. The C7ME-A has been used as 330MD truck engine and also for 428 car engines. The 428 has a much larger bore and is actually cast larger even though they share the same casting number. I have also had people tell me that they have seem 390s with the C7ME-A number but I haven't noted that myself. In short, you are going to need to measure the actual bore to see what the block is. I am uncertain what the B75929 stands for.

I think that you have misread some of the numbers on the intake ( they are not always easy to read). It would make sense to me if the number was "C"7TE 9425. The C would stand for sixties, the seven for 67, the T indicates a truck casting and the E indicates that it is an engine part. Your number 6417 is likely a date code, but I suspect that the second number is a letter, perhaps an "A". This would mean that it was cast on January 17, 1966.

The exhaust manifold indicates that is a 65 casting for a truck and it was cast on Sept 13, 1966

The crank is very telling as it will give you stroke. The only listing that I have for a C4AE-A crank is for a 352. A 352 has the same stroke as a 360, so if you have a 4.05 bore, you would have a 360.

The codes for the heads would seem to be date codes and indicate a casting on Sept 7, 1966. Either there are more numbers on the heads, they have been removed, or there weren't any cast into the heads!

Realize that the information I have provided is "book" info. In the real world in the late 60s Ford used what ever parts were in the bin to build and engine. Also keep in mind that I believe that there were some nasty labour strikes in 1967 that messed up the parts supply to the assembly lines. I know that there are some Mustangs that came off the assembly line with Cougar marker lights due to part supply shortages.

So....... What this all means is that now you have a rough idea, you still need to measure. Unless I am wrong, I would say that you have a 352 as it has a 352 crank. Check the bore, if it is 4.00 you have a 352, if it is 4.05 you have a 360. IF you have a 360, the bore is the same for a 390 so you could look at changing the internals to make it into a 390 (or even a 410). The intake and the exhaust manifolds would seem to be correct for a truck engine.

Hope this helps. If I made any errors I am certain that I will be corrected.

Bob

 

Bob's right on! What do you mean not an expert? Great job of deciphering those numbers.

Cs3a, can you look for a few more numbers? On the block under the oil filter adapter there should be a date code. Check the back of the block for a large letter "A" or "C". On the heads there should be a number between the center two spark plugs (hoping for a C6AE-6090-R), check both heads. How about some numbers for the rods? The distributor will have a 12127 number on it, need to know what's before and after that number.

The intake manifold is correct, have even seen these on some '67 car engines (labor strike?) The exhaust manifolds are correct too, next major casting change were the C8 units. The crank should be a 352 but check the stroke anyway.

Now about the block, you really need to measure the bore like Bob said, it's torn down right? Inside the center freeze plug there may be a number, more likely not. While you're looking, take some drill bits and see what size fits in-between the bores, check more than one.

This sounds like a fun project, FE's sound great hot rodded. Post back with the info and we should be able to nail it down for sure (I think.)

Barry

 

Ok, so let's assume it's a 352, how much can I bore it out and what crank should I be looking for. My 15 year old wants a big block and so I said we could bore and stroke what we have and end up with a pretty good engine. I'm looking at a edelbrock performer 390 manifold with the performer-plus camshaft kit. The heads are in very good shape, can I have them milled or should I be looking at new heads too. I don't have unlimited funds, but I would like to get the most out of this engine at the same time be teaching my boys as much as posible. Thanks again for all the help, this site has been a God send for me.

cs3a

 

cs3a, bore your block 050 over, to std 390 size. Get a 390 crank and rods (any year, 61-76) and some L2291F pistons. Keep your stock heads but upgrade to hard seats under the exhaust and run the 1.65 valves from the CJ428 engine, your intake valves are fine at the stock 2.04. Forget the performer, it is an anchor. Get a Blue Thunder or a RPM. Do the normal oiling fixes and you're ready to rock. With 9 1/2 to 1, should give you close to 400hp. Have fun. DF

 

I agree completely with dinosaurfan's recommendations. There is no reason to build anything smaller than a 390. You may want to clean up the combustion chambers with a bit of grinding and if you can, CC them; that will really smooth out the engine. Besides it will keep the boys off the streets for several nights.
Do plan on headers if you want to see that 400 HP.

When your a bit further down the road come back and ask about cams and carbs.

Bob
'66 7 Litre, top loader, 3.25 Traction-lock, Sidewinder Intake, SCJ Exhaust
'88 F150 LWB 4x2, XLT Lariat, 302, 5 speed, 3.08
'99 Ranger, 4x2, 3.0, 5 speed, 3.73 posi

 

You guys have been really great, thanks for the advice. Who makes Blue Thunder? Any reccomendation on rings?

 

Blue thunder is the name of the casting company run by Art Francis. He has been casting good stuff for fords for a long time, stuff you just can't anywhere else. I believe his web site is http://www.bluethunderauto.com or something like that. If you want the best, he makes it. Some things, like FE and 429/460 blower manifolds, nobody else even offers. My intake, and the one I recommend first, -a 4267B- was purchased from FPP, is a blue thunder piece. My rings are double molys from Hastings, about 100$ a set. No problems with them at all. DF

 

Ok, so I just looked at my crank and there is a half moon and a small square notch out of the back end. Now I'm really confused.

 

Does it look like the blurry pic in this thread?

https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID7/281.html

 

That's it alright, looks like I need to buy a new 390 crank. Ok any suggestions?

 

Is it posible to bore it to .80 so I would have the 390 with .30+. The reason I ask it seems like there are a lot more options, ie rebuild kits etc for a 390 .30+. I live next to Summit racing so me and the boys spend a lot of time there.