352 rear main
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Joined: Jun 2001
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352 rear main
i have a '65 352 in a '59 F100 2wd. I was wondering if it is possible to change the rear main seal without pulling the crank? Is it a 2 piece seal? Thanks for any info on the subject.
Travis
Travis
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 430
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From: Deatsville, AL
352 rear main
The original seal was a "rope". Unless you know the history of the truck it most likely is a rope and not a two piece.
It is possible to change the rear seal in either case but it's a lot like work. Its my experince that if the rear seal goes out and the engine has a lot of miles on it then pull it out and rebuild it. The rear seal failing is very often an early sign that all is not well when the engine has a lot of miles.
Bob
'66 7 Litre, top loader, 3.25 Traction-lock, Sidewinder Intake, SCJ Exhaust
'88 F150 LWB 4x2, XLT Lariat, 302, 5 speed, 3.08
'99 Ranger, 4x2, 3.0, 5 speed, 3.73 posi
It is possible to change the rear seal in either case but it's a lot like work. Its my experince that if the rear seal goes out and the engine has a lot of miles on it then pull it out and rebuild it. The rear seal failing is very often an early sign that all is not well when the engine has a lot of miles.
Bob
'66 7 Litre, top loader, 3.25 Traction-lock, Sidewinder Intake, SCJ Exhaust
'88 F150 LWB 4x2, XLT Lariat, 302, 5 speed, 3.08
'99 Ranger, 4x2, 3.0, 5 speed, 3.73 posi
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,697
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver
352 rear main
Loosen all the main caps 1/4 turn or enough to allow the crank to drop a little, and remove the rear cap. You'll see what you have when it's off. If you have the old rope seal in there, it might be difficult, but it will come out.
Eric
Eric
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 128
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352 rear main
If your oil pressure is good and you're not burning oil, I think it would be okay to just replace the rear main, especially if the truck isn't your main daily driver.
You can yank out that rope seal fairly easy if you have a packing puller, sort of a corkscrew thingy with a long, slender, flexible shaft to get into tricky spots. You can also inspect the rear main bearing to get an idea of whether or not you need to rebuild the engine.
As for replacing the seal, I've had the best luck with the Felpro rear main kit for the FE block. Not only does it replace the seal around the crank, it also does away with the rope seals between the block and the bearing cap and replaces them with these slick little rubber seals that go in much easier and lock in place with wires. Plus it comes with sailor-proof instructions.
You can yank out that rope seal fairly easy if you have a packing puller, sort of a corkscrew thingy with a long, slender, flexible shaft to get into tricky spots. You can also inspect the rear main bearing to get an idea of whether or not you need to rebuild the engine.
As for replacing the seal, I've had the best luck with the Felpro rear main kit for the FE block. Not only does it replace the seal around the crank, it also does away with the rope seals between the block and the bearing cap and replaces them with these slick little rubber seals that go in much easier and lock in place with wires. Plus it comes with sailor-proof instructions.
