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engine fire damage repaired, have a few bugs

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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 08:25 PM
  #1  
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engine fire damage repaired, have a few bugs

I have a 92 f150 4x4 5.8 auto. It had an engine fire as a result of a birdsnest under the intake. It basically melted the top off the motor. Ive got it back together and running and driving, but I have 3 problems that need worked out. I thought some of you knowledgeable guys on here could help with some advice.

#1. The trans will not shift back into first when I come to a stop. I have to manually shift into first and then back to drive before taking off. Sometimes it shifts hard too. My first thought was the TV cable, which I didnt see. I got under the truck and looked and I dont see a tv cable or lever anywhere. Im confused. Where is the TV cable, or does it even have one? Is it vacuum operated or something?

#2. Th heater control will not switch from defrost to floor to vent etc. Its stuck on defrost. The **** itself turns, but it just stays in defrost mode. The vacuum operated lever on the heater box moves if i move it by hand, but the vac line or lines must be hooked up wrong or not at all. I dont have a diagram for the vac lines. Can I find one anywhere, or is it a simple routing that someone can easily just tell me on here?

#3 The speedometer and odometer dont work. Could it be a speed sensor or something, or the wire coming out of the speed sensor to wherever it goes? where is the speed sensor located, and where does it go to?

Any help is appreciated! Thanks for all your time
 
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 08:33 PM
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I'm guessing that #3 is related to a bad PSOM or bad connection to the PSOM, which also might be the cause of #1.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 08:40 PM
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I can help some on number 3, which might also be connected to the problems in #1. The speed sensor is located on the rear axle, usually top front of the differential. If this is the problem and is acting up it can also cause problems with the computer control of the transmission.

There "should" be a vacuum diagram under the hood drivers side that shows where the vaccum hoses are routed. On the passenger side there should be a black and white vacuum tube that go thru the firewall inside to the control switch. The black tube provides vacuum fo the switch and at the switch there should be 4 or 5 tubes coming out of it to go to different doors in the vent system.

Hopefully this helps some:

 

Last edited by Wingman69; Oct 8, 2007 at 08:43 PM. Reason: Added vacuum diagram for switch.
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Wingman69
I can help some on number 3, which might also be connected to the problems in #1. The speed sensor is located on the rear axle, usually top front of the differential. If this is the problem and is acting up it can also cause problems with the computer control of the transmission.
The VSS on the rear diff can definitely effect the speedometer and/or transmission but it should be affecting his odometer, this why I think you should look into the PSOM, where the odometer reading is stored. Although you should also check the VSS too
 
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 09:04 PM
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According to alldatadiy.com:


Description and Operation

Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM)

The Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module includes the Speedometer, the Odometer, and the Trip Odometer, all of which are electronically controlled by a programmable integrated microprocessor. The microprocessor receives a speed signal input from the Differential Speed Sensor (DSS), and uses a programmed conversion constant to convert the signal to the standard 8000 pulses per mile speed signal output. The Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module is serviceable only as a unit.

The electric analog speedometer receives it's input from the anti-lock brake sensor. The liquid crystal display (LCD) odometer is a combination trip odometer and total odometer. The total odometer is normally displayed. To See the trip odometer, press and release the SELECT button on the upper right side of the speedometer. To zero out the trip odometer, press and release the RESET button on the upper left side of the speedometer while the trip odometer is displayed. If the trip odometer is displayed, press and release the SELECT button to return the display to the total odometer value. The speedometer, containing the trip odometer and total mileage odometer, is serviceable only as a unit.

The speedometer is also used to provide Speed signal for correct operation of the vehicle's EEC module and speed control (if so equipped). Because of this, it is VERY IMPORTANT to change the speedometer's internal conversion constant if the size of tires on the vehicle is changed. Changing the conversion constant to the proper value when the tires are changed will also make sure that the speedometer retains the original factory-set accuracy.
*EDIT* First thing to check for sure would be the wiring harness since there was a fire.
 

Last edited by Wingman69; Oct 8, 2007 at 09:06 PM.
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 09:10 PM
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Description and Operation

Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM)

The Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module includes the Speedometer, the Odometer, and the Trip Odometer, all of which are electronically controlled by a programmable integrated microprocessor. The microprocessor receives a speed signal input from the Differential Speed Sensor (DSS), and uses a programmed conversion constant to convert the signal to the standard 8000 pulses per mile speed signal output. The Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module is serviceable only as a unit.
Where the part about the odometer reading from the VSS?

Actually, in correction to myself. If I'm not mistake, the odometer does indirectly get its reading from the VSS since it uses the number of wheel rotations in a calculation. BUT! A bad VSS isn't going to make the odometer disappear.
 

Last edited by Skandocious; Oct 8, 2007 at 09:19 PM.
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Wingman69
First thing to check for sure would be the wiring harness since there was a fire.
I assumed after an engine fire the wiring harness was the FIRST place he looked. If not, wingman is right, you need to make sure you have no melted insulation/shorting wires. Most often with engine fires it is a good idea to replace all of the wiring harnesses completely, depending on the severity of the fire.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2007 | 03:12 AM
  #8  
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I replaced the entire engine harness. The harness that the engine harness plugs into was ok.
 
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