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The cam should have come with some break in lube, I used the whole tube to cover each lobe and bottoms of the lifters. You should use new lifters as well.
Run the engine for at least 20 min at about 2000 rpm, this is done to keep more oil on the cam lobes.
I bought some Crane break in lube that is added to the oil because I had so much trouble setting the timming and getting it to catch for the first time that I probably wiped off the Crower lube.
I'm running that same cam in my setup and I'm using Edelbrock 460 springs and standard lifters, although I only have 50 miles on the engine, it seems to have broken in fine. I used this same cam in the prior build that failed after 75 miles due to bad rods from PAW. The race engine builder that fixed the problem inspected the cam and lifters and said they looked great.
It's always best to get the engine to catch quickly on the first start, but I didn't have such luck. I'd start by removing the valve covers and priming the oil pump and checking for proper flow at the rocker tips (none from the sides). Set the timming to what you think it should be by hand, then attach a timming light and move the dist back and forth. The timming light should flash and give you an accurate set. In other words, if you want 10btdc, set the engine at 10btdc, attach the timming light, move the dist back and forth, when the light flashes your there.
If it takes a while to catch, I'd get some Crane break in lube for the oil, it's only about $8 at local perf shops.
I still need to get the last ring and get the piston in then put the heads and oil pump and pan on. The book that cam with the can said to get some GM EOS and pour over the cam and lifters. What is it? Where can I get it? Thanks. Eric
I just installed the same Cam on my 390. Used 30W per the instructions, and used the Crower pre-lube on cam lobes and lifters. I did not find the GM EOS, but the shop had a purple product (The name eludes me) they used so I went with that. I was unable to prime the oil pump, but had poured some of that purple stuff along the pushrods. I also had a difficult time getting it to start and was worried that I had damaged the cam. But, after finally getting the timing in the right spot, it started and ran for 30-40 minutes. I haven't noticed any problems yet. I was runnnig the factory springs, so that may have helped by not having new stiff high pressure springs. I may yet go back to the Ed heads I started with and the newer springs. But using older less rigid springs may be good for a break in.
Recently (6 weeks) installed the Baja Beast 16915 in my 69 F350, 390, 4sp, 4:10 gears, added edelbrock performer, Holley 650, Heddeman header, complete 3" exhaust system with balance tube and Flo Master 50's. Truck is a chassis mount camper/motorhome weights 10,000 lbs tows a 16 ft. seaswirl boat, about 3000 lbs.
Truck pulls like a freight train, an sounds GREAT, come up Vanatage Hill, (10 miles @6%), 4th gear 60mph with throttle left. Before the change, 50 mph in third gear on the floor, engine screaming.
Thanks I still need to order the springs for it probably next week end. Hopefully I will have the rest of the engine together by then. I still want to get some adjustable rockers for it. I hope to have the engine done in the next month. I still have alot to do on the truck before it is driveable but I will be one step closer. I can't wait! Eric