Any idea as to why Comp lists this as not being computer compatible? I can see if you are running SD, but i am MAF. Looking for a roller for my '90 f150. This retro cam seems like it would be a good choice for a truck, I just can't see why MAF wouldn't be happy with it.

Trying not to break the bank on going roller.

 

Isn't anyone using this cam? Or even have an opinion? It is a small base roller, and it isn't radical. Comp XR264RF

COMP Cams 35-413-8 - COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Camshafts - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Called Comp today and all they could tell me is the computer wouldn't like the vacuum signal. I explained that I was running MAF but the guy didn't seem to know what I was talking about.

 

Hopefully conanski gets a chance to read this. I can't remember what he and I discussed about roller cam choice.

Other then being only 110 lobe separation it looks fine.
You should stick between 112-114 for efi to be "happy"

 

What year is your block and is it a 302 or 351? IMO there is no need to use a small base circle cam just to get a roller in an older block, I'd suggest you use a standard roller cam with linkbar roller lifters instead.. assuming your block isn't already roller ready.

As for the cam I think it would run with mass air, duration is no longer than the cam I have(Comp 35-349-8) but LSA is 4 deg tighter and while that doesn't sound like much even a 1 deg change in LSA has a noticable effect on engine vacuum. The cam I have idles smooth but idle vacuum is lower than stock at about 16in/hg so this cam would be lower still which may present itself in the form of stalling problems. If this is a daily driver I think you'd get tired of that pretty quick but if it's just a play truck then go for it.

 

The block is a 1990, 351w.
Bored 30 over with stock oversized pistons.
AFR 185 (1422) heads
Longtube headers
Edelbrock truck performer intake
1.7 roller rockers
Mustang A9L MAF computer
24# injectors with matching air meter

I think i need to agree on the small circle cams, the pickins are really slim. it's just more money.......

I just wiped a lobe off of a Crane 444232. Broke it in with the stock heads, and got 100 mikes out of it and it started popping through the intake. #6 exhaust lobe is missing in action along with 1/4" off the bottom of the lifter. I am looking to get the most low end out of this combo and still have respectable top end. The truck is a shortbed 150, 2wd,AOD and 355 gears. Any cam advise is welcome. the 35-230-3 looks good to me, but i am leaning towards roller since i lost $300 on the last flat tappet cam and yanked the engine out again to clean it out and inspect.

And the wife needs to be able to turn the key and go. Fuel economy and some towing as well. And yes the AOD is built.

 

Yeah bite the bullet and get a roller, I wouldn't hesitate to suggest the cam I have or if you want to spice it up just a little more get the 35-320-8 which is the exact same grind with 112 LSA. And please ignore all the blurbs you see about this cam being designed for 1.7 rockers, it works fine with 1.6s and generates 0.512" lift which is plenty to get lots of HP out of those heads.
Lunati has a set of lifters for just over $200.. Lunati 72915-16 - Lunati Hydraulic Roller Lifters - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

Conanski, first of all I do highly respect your opinion, and i have done a million fte searches only to find you are the Cam Man. Maybe change your name to CamManski?

I thought on the flat tappet block you needed to use the lifters with the attached links to run a roller. Best I can find on those are about 350 a set. I am under the impression that in order to use a spider set up i needed a reduced circle cam. But i do see rollers all over that look like the ford stock rollers but say "retro". How does that work?

 

You find a factory roller motor, yank off the spider, dogbones, and lifters...
Then you install those parts on a non roller block, lign up the spider and drill/tap the block.
Don't go too deep, you're over a cam journal.
Or do what I did and drill offset and through the block
Then space out the spider so it's putting pressure on dog bones, locktite the bolts in place.

No special cam needed. Only shorter pushrods.
I thought a small base circle cam was needed when using linked roller lifters cause they were so darn tall, they'd hit the head on high lift cams. (302 probably but a 351 has lot more room)
Chevy I thought used small base circle cams in their stroker motors. Something about connecting rod bolts hitting potentially.

 

With you on that. Why on earth drill on top of a bearing if you don't have to. The roller blocks have raised lifter bores, i thought if i went spider and stock rollers the lifters would hit the dog bones. Thanks Untamnd. If you've done it then it'll work for me.

 

You only need to drill and tap on a non roller block.
Roller blocks you just bolt the stuff in and it's done.
The dog bones ride with the lifter and the spider is springy to accommodate higher lift cams.
Either way. If you use stock parts, nothing hits, no special cam needed.

 

Talked to Comp again today. According to them the only 2 ways to run a roller in my non-roller block is to either use the siamesed link bar lifters and a normal roller cam, or to use stock rollers and a reduced base cam. They can grind the 35-349-8 or the 35-320-8 onto a "retro blank" for the same price as a normal cam.

There sure is a lot of conflicting info available.

 

Not sure if it a small base circle cam or not, but I have been running a ford Motorsports Z303 cam in a 69 351 block, with stock 302 roller lifters and stock dogbones and spider.
No issues at all.
I don't know why they say normal cam and linked lifters, because that is the tallest setup you can get. You won't be able to use stock roller 351 pushrods I wouldn't think.
My setup used all stock parts and worked just fine.

 

I believe you, and I'm pretty sure that the cam you're running isn't a retro. The lifter height bothers me, seems like the lifters will be much higher in their bores. I just don't want to lay out the money to get the parts and have another issue.

 

Just to follow up and maybe save somebody a bunch of time and dollars. I learned a couple of things.

The cam I went with was the 35-320-8 as was suggested. Nice cam, slight lope and with the 1.7 rockers lets the motor breath well. Comp will grind any cam they make on a reduced circle blank FOR THE SAME PRICE, so that's what I did. Some will say it is weaker, and maybe it is, but Comp says the only time they know of one breaking was because of something else not cam failure. the only 2 "right" ways to roller a non-roller block are reduced circle (retro) cams or link bar lifters. the stock spider was designed to be stationary and not have the dog bones lift it several thousand times a minute.

When I tore the motor open I found the metal from the wiped lobe and lifter had been pumped through the oil and destroyed every bearing in the engine. Got the block cleaned, checked the bores, new bearings throughout, new rings and new crank. Took a couple of months to get all done but man did it sound sweet on first startup with open headers for break-in.

Also never over estimate the power handling capabilities of a stock AOD. Once the engine was back together, on the first test drive, the very first full throttle 1-2 shift was great, and the 2-3 shift never came. Lost 3rd and 4th. Tore the splined hub right out of the torque converter. Enter Broader Performance. Awesome to deal with and the 4r70w package with controller is very nice and fully programmable. Kind of spendy, but now that I have it it's a bargain and near bullet proof.

Now the truck is back together and runs very well except for a cold morning idle surge issue (still a work in progress). The acceleration is unbelievable, and 'Ol Blue is a true sleeper(missing paint, rust and all). Plenty of torque to move the 2wd std cab short-bed around with ease, and can leave most any vehicle sitting at a light. The only real problem is the open rear needs a trak-loc, the "one wheel peel" launching and the same on the 1-2 shift needs to be tamed. Cam Quest puts the combo into the 490 range for both HP and TQ. To the track this spring.

Now I need to learn bodywork and painting..............