rear 9'' dics brake conversion?
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From: America
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Depending on what style flanges your rear has, you can readily find parts in the junk yard to convert to disc. On my EB, which has early small bearing flanges, I used the brackets, calipers, and rotors off of an early '90's Grand Marquis.
If you have an early model big bearing you can use the Lincoln 9" set up. But they are getting hard to find in the junk yard.
And if you have a newer big bearing or Torino bearing it is sometimes called, you can use a mid '90's Explorer set up. Sorry I don't have a pic of the complete set up but here is one of the backing plate comapared to the gasket for the early large bearing.
If you have an early model big bearing you can use the Lincoln 9" set up. But they are getting hard to find in the junk yard.
And if you have a newer big bearing or Torino bearing it is sometimes called, you can use a mid '90's Explorer set up. Sorry I don't have a pic of the complete set up but here is one of the backing plate comapared to the gasket for the early large bearing.
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From: Kahaluu, Hawaii
i think the only difference between 9's is big bearing, small bearing, so for my mustang i bought wilwood, mine has the little explorer drum brake that sits inside the hat, and is used as a parking brake.
its not going to be cheap though.
if you want i can get you part numbers from the kits i've used.
not sure, but don't see why mustang 9 brakes wouldn't fit a bronco 9
its not going to be cheap though.
if you want i can get you part numbers from the kits i've used.
not sure, but don't see why mustang 9 brakes wouldn't fit a bronco 9
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From: Kahaluu, Hawaii
my mustang is 5 bolt, majority of mustangs were 5 bolt
only fox body mustangs were 4 bolt up to '93, but most if not all of those were 8.8, not 9in
mustang is 5 on 4.5, like ranger, jeep, toyota 5lug, etc., but wilwoods hubs, and hats have multiple bolt patterns, you can make it 4.5, 5, or 5.5, depends on where you screw in the studs(not press in) so unless theres something i'm missing you may be able to use a mustang 9in kit, or at least the major components of it anyway.
only fox body mustangs were 4 bolt up to '93, but most if not all of those were 8.8, not 9in
mustang is 5 on 4.5, like ranger, jeep, toyota 5lug, etc., but wilwoods hubs, and hats have multiple bolt patterns, you can make it 4.5, 5, or 5.5, depends on where you screw in the studs(not press in) so unless theres something i'm missing you may be able to use a mustang 9in kit, or at least the major components of it anyway.
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From: I am deployed oef
I already have alot of money tied up in my front brakes I was wondering what is the least expensive way to put disk in the rear. I realy dont care about the parking break I dont use them in new trucks so I would'nt use it on that one?
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I did a rear disk swap using the front rotors and wheel studs off a 78-79 F150, than a $10 weld on brake caliper bracket, and some chevy s10 calipers.. the rotor needs to go on th eback of the axle flange, so it needs to get a notch cut into it so you can bolt the axle in. but it was symple and cost about $125 when all said and done. If i need to i can go take some pics.
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From: MI..."near" Dearborn...
Rear Disc on a 9"...
I just spent a lot of time goin' thru the same thing for a project of mine...
Although I don't have a Bronco...I was lookin' for rear dics for my
'70 big-axle-bearing EARLY-Ford 9" rear that I'm buildin' for my
'56 F100...
The reason I mention the bolt pattern is 'cause IF ya go with a "kit"
ya gotta know the bolt pattern!
I emphasize EARLY-Ford 9" rear 'cause the axle tube end-flange
bolt-pattern DOES matter...
I was on my way to another board and saw your subject line so I
"stopped-in" to check out your post...
...
Anyway...I saved a bunch of the info I collected to my computer
so maybe this will help ya out...take a look at this...it's the thread
I started May 1st when I started looking for my parts...
A member here named "75F350" has been doing these conversions
for a while now with "off-the-shelf-parts" and he swears it'll only cost ya about $99!!!
Check it out man...it's worth a look...
...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/846919-1970-9-disc-brake-conversion-help.html
-
Although I don't have a Bronco...I was lookin' for rear dics for my
'70 big-axle-bearing EARLY-Ford 9" rear that I'm buildin' for my
'56 F100...
The reason I mention the bolt pattern is 'cause IF ya go with a "kit"
ya gotta know the bolt pattern!
I emphasize EARLY-Ford 9" rear 'cause the axle tube end-flange
bolt-pattern DOES matter...
I was on my way to another board and saw your subject line so I
"stopped-in" to check out your post...
...Anyway...I saved a bunch of the info I collected to my computer
so maybe this will help ya out...take a look at this...it's the thread
I started May 1st when I started looking for my parts...
A member here named "75F350" has been doing these conversions
for a while now with "off-the-shelf-parts" and he swears it'll only cost ya about $99!!!
Check it out man...it's worth a look...
...https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/846919-1970-9-disc-brake-conversion-help.html
-
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Joined: Feb 2017
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almost factory disk kit
Hey everyone, I know this is waaaaaayyyy after the fact but I've mostly managed to put together a rear disc kit from original ford parts except for the rotors. I'm converting my 79 4x4 short bed, numbers as follows.
housing flange: 3.5x2.375 spacing
79 Lincoln mk v bearing retainers: 3.5x2.375
The rotors from the Mk v won't work, I think most of us know this because the Lincolns were 5x5 and the minimum axle flange clearance of the rotor won't clear the truck 5x5.5 axle so the rotor solution came from a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee, front rotors part numbers as follows;
Duralast 5118 from autozone
BrakeBest 76793RGS from Oreilly's
Bendix PRT5254 from Rock auto or Summit
The rotor dimensions are very close to the Lincoln and obviously need to be drilled for the correct bolt pattern which is easy enough with a drill press at the house the hard part is opening the center hole, you need to turn this on a lathe, the original opening is 2.83 and the axle hub is 2.87. any machine shop can do this fairly quickly, I just happen to be lucky and did this at work and plan to pick another set of rotors that i'll prep for the future and leave on a shelf coated in oily rags.
Once the rotors were opened up and drilled 5x5.5 I mocked them up to the axle with the caliper hanger bolted on, I wound up using a couple of washers between the bearing retainer and the hanger to give it clearance. as for fitting brake pads I may have gotten lucky but new calipers are on the way to make sure it wasn't a fluke. The calipers and pads have just enough clearance to slide over the rotors but it could be to tight depending on pad manufacturing tolerances so I've ordered a Lincoln Versailles caliper along with the new mk v calipers to see if they fit and what the differences are between the two besides the advertised 1lb weight difference. Versailles are heavier. So for now parts are on the way and i'll ad pictures and more info once i'm finished sticking this together. I forgot to mention, this whole PITA of a task was done to make sure I still had a functional e brake...
housing flange: 3.5x2.375 spacing
79 Lincoln mk v bearing retainers: 3.5x2.375
The rotors from the Mk v won't work, I think most of us know this because the Lincolns were 5x5 and the minimum axle flange clearance of the rotor won't clear the truck 5x5.5 axle so the rotor solution came from a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee, front rotors part numbers as follows;
Duralast 5118 from autozone
BrakeBest 76793RGS from Oreilly's
Bendix PRT5254 from Rock auto or Summit
The rotor dimensions are very close to the Lincoln and obviously need to be drilled for the correct bolt pattern which is easy enough with a drill press at the house the hard part is opening the center hole, you need to turn this on a lathe, the original opening is 2.83 and the axle hub is 2.87. any machine shop can do this fairly quickly, I just happen to be lucky and did this at work and plan to pick another set of rotors that i'll prep for the future and leave on a shelf coated in oily rags.
Once the rotors were opened up and drilled 5x5.5 I mocked them up to the axle with the caliper hanger bolted on, I wound up using a couple of washers between the bearing retainer and the hanger to give it clearance. as for fitting brake pads I may have gotten lucky but new calipers are on the way to make sure it wasn't a fluke. The calipers and pads have just enough clearance to slide over the rotors but it could be to tight depending on pad manufacturing tolerances so I've ordered a Lincoln Versailles caliper along with the new mk v calipers to see if they fit and what the differences are between the two besides the advertised 1lb weight difference. Versailles are heavier. So for now parts are on the way and i'll ad pictures and more info once i'm finished sticking this together. I forgot to mention, this whole PITA of a task was done to make sure I still had a functional e brake...
Last edited by Floid; Jan 15, 2019 at 12:51 AM. Reason: forgot to mention
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