92 7.3L Injection Pump Failure?
What are those two bad wires? Does anyone know how to bypass the oil pressure switch to see if the IP will start?
This all started when I switched to my 2nd tank. The truck died out in the intersection and I then I switched back quick enough to purge and be on my way. When I came back from town the truck died in my driveway and I wasn't able to get it started after that. I thought it my be my switch so I toggled it back and forth. Then fuel shot out of the line after the filter. Still no fuel to the injector lines now.
Its probably the IP, with 350K on the truck, but since those wires didn't light up I'd like to find out what they're for.

Front drivers side is the fuel shut off solenoid, power when the key is ON.
Rear drivers side is timing advance on cold starts.
Power when the key is ON and the engine temp is below 110 degrees.
No power on a warm engine.
Passenger side wire is the cold start high idle solenoid.
Power to the wire when the key is ON and engine temp is below 110 degrees.
No power when the engine temp is over 110 degrees.
The oil pressure is not tied into the IP as a stock option, but could have been added by a previous owner.
If you have 12 volts at the fuel shut off solenoid, you should have fuel to the injectors.
If you sucked a bunch of air into the lines, you need to loosen several injector lines and bleed the air out.
Use caution when loosening the injection lines, make sure the nut is turning on the line.
If the line turns with the nut, you will crimp the line, and the cheapest price I know of is 40 dollars each.
At 350K on the IP I would say you are overdue for a new IP.
Also the injectors could stand to be replaced as well.
When I replaced mine I did not realize how much power and economy I had lost over the years till the new parts were installed.





