When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My "new" 390 has a total of fifteen miles on it. It has some lifter rattle when it starts. Noone we know has any idea why this is. The only suggestion we got is that the check valve in the oil filter is bad, so we changed it. For the cost of an FL-1A it is worth it. Well after two filters, it still does it. I am afraid to start it and tear up the motor. I've got a brand new oil pump in the motor, I put replaced anything that I even questioned had wear. The other thing that the machinist thought was that since the filter sits horizontal, the oil is leaking off a bit when it sits for a while. Has anyone heard of this? If this is the problem, then where do I get a new oil filter adapter to remedy this? I reeeaaaaallllly need help, I have been working everyday, all day on this truck to change it from a half rusted heap to a spotless machine, I'd hate to have to pull a motor and not be able to drive it. Thanks.
I forgot to say what motor it is. I have no real mods on this engine. It is the original in a '76 F-150. It is a 2V bored .030 over, which made me cry. I hate to have to pull things off factory specs. It is backed by a C6.
I've never seen this before, although this is the first FE I've messed with. I noticed that the 302s, 351Ws, 351W H.O., and the 460s I've built have a filter that is tilted and part of the block. They never have had a problem. That leads to believe my machinist is correct. So that still leaves me wondering where I can get a different filter adapter.
I neglect to mention the noise goes away in a few seconds after the motor starts. Once oil hits the lifters it quiets down and you can't hear a thing. The lifters are standard hydralic lifters made by Clevite. Everything on the motor is clevite. For the most part everything is standard except the the pistons which are .030 over and the rod and main bearings which, unfortunately, are .010 under. It is running, I think, around 60 psi of oil pressure. I am running 10w40 natural, not that synthetic crap. I live in AZ where it is still 95 degrees. The machinist suggested trying straight 30. The valve springs are out of a 360, they were at spec. for a 390 2v truck motor when we checked them. I don't think they have lost anything since it was built a few months ago and the motor and tranny have a whole fifteen miles on them.
another wild idea:
mabie when the crank was turned down one or more of the rod bearing journals was turned too small. That could make a rattle for a few seconds after start up until oil pressure built up. Or mabie somehow a standard size rod bearing insert made its way into the assembled engine.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/mil1ion/3bd50cf01b82662e.gif
Why not when you have time, take the Valve covers off of it and have someone start the engine while you're under the hood close to where the Clacking is going on.Then you would Know exactly where the noise is coming from.
What weight of oil do you have in it ?
How long of a sit does it take, to make the clacking noise when it starts up?
I am running 10W40 in AZ where it is still 95 in the day. Ummm... It takes a few hours of sitting to cause the sound. It is a lifter sound. The crank miced (sp) to specs for .010 under and they were all uniform. The machinist did a beautiful job, everything was right on. I am using an FL-1A oil filter, and I am on the third one.
Is the bleed of valve behind the dist clear ?
This is where air that gets into the gallery while stopped gets out quick, other wise you have to push the air thru the lifters.
Well the problem was as I had suspected, the oil filter had been bleeding off. I put a PH8A Fram on instead of an FL1A. This seems to eliminate the noise. I also located a vertical filter adapter which is going on tomorrow. I figure it is hard for oil to flow upward so this should help a lot. Thanks for the suggestions.
Albert, glad your noise is gone. I would look for another filter however. The ones from Fram have been develoring a very bad reputation. Since Allied Signal bought out Fram, (they used to make good stuff) the only thing the same is the orange paint on the outside of the filter. How about a Purolator or a Wix ? Also, did you or your machinist do the regular oiling fixes that a 390 needs ? If they haven't been done I think the engine has to come back out anyway....... What pump is in there and what clearance do you have on the crank ? I have always thought the factory specs were too tight. DF
The machinist fixed the lifter passages. I got that new oil filter adapter on. It makes no noise. An boy does it show some oil pressure! I was told by my cousin (works for Ford) that there is an FL-1R filter that should work better than a PH8A or an FL1A. I am not to fond of Fram's but this one worked. I like to keep with factory parts. So I will probably stay with an FL-1A now that I have that vertical adapter. Another thing, it cranks right over, dont even have to touch the petal, you'd swear that it is injected. All I have to do is to touch the switch. Its not really cold here in the mornings, 50 degress, but that is encouraging since it only gets down to around 30 here.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.