I have seen that there is quite a bit of controversial opinions on how to go about building a 385 series, lets throw our ideas out there, from mild to wild lets hear it, no bs, our opinions, no one is wrong, maybe we'll all learn something new. I'll start with my present engine in my daily driver , beat to **** work truck. I started with a 1970 dove A 2 bolt block, 4 bolt billet 4340 maincaps on 1-4, crower 4.5" stroke 4340 non-twist crank, std mains bbc 2.2 rod journals, carillo 6.7 " H beam rods, wiseco ft pistons, 4.32" bore, 1.35 ch, .990 tool steel pin, total seal gapless 2nd ring set, piston tops ceramic coated, block sleeved all 8 cyl down to std 440 chry size, water jackets filled to bottom of water holes on front with hard blok, decks o-ringed with stainless rings, sce copper head gaskets without water transfer holes, iron 370 heads, chambers filled next to plug and adjacent valves, chambers and valve faces ceramic coated, 2.19, stainless intake bbc valves custom length,1.88 inconel exh valves, heads machined for port plates on exhaust side, bbc headers fit, heads are sealed from water transfer from block, independent cooling systems for heads and block, block runs 210* heads 120* usual porting on intake side to attain 290 cfm, , 245cfm exhaust cam is a split duration solid roller, milodon gear drive , edelbrock torker 2 intake, all the usual top end crap, guideplates, 3/8 pushrods, roller rockers, titanium retainers, 10* keepers, double springs, 2" primary headers feeding a turbo from an n14 cummins, liquid propane injection, intake air temp at 22psi is +10* at 25* ambient, drops considerably in winter when ambient is in the negatives,I know this is a little stout for a daily driver but i HATE having my engines come apart before I put a wrench on them, lets hear what you build

 

 

x2, i agree

 

Interesting concept about the independant cooling systems. When you say propane injection... is that in addition to gasoline, or does it run on all propane?

 

i run on straight propane, the whole design was based around propane, when the liquid propane is injected it turns from liquid to gas almost instantly supercooling the mixture, by cooling the heads to a much cooler temp octane tolerance is greatly increased, I'm playing around right now with cooling the heads on my race engine with r-12, same as air conditioning, tremendous power gains can be found by running the heads at the right temp, block is perfectly happy at 210*. I was able to get similar cooling effect with methanol but ran into trouble with too much liquid fuel in combustion chambers, doesn't evaporate enough

 

good luck on using R-12 the stuff hasn't been produced since the mid 80s has been outlawed for sale to all except lic individuals and I don't know about Canada but using it in an unauthorized manor such as suggested will get you huge fines etc. As well as the fact the stuff with taxes etc is now in excess of $60/lb.

And lets see you mentioned Iron 370 heads, well those would be the same heads in another thread you claimed weren't nearly efficient enough and that with doves you could get a 400% increase in efficiency with the dove heads over the D3VE heads that were used on the early 370 or the E7TE or F3TE heads used on the FI engines. Yes thats right the 370 uses the same heads as a 429.

Can't think of one good reason you would sleeve all 8 cylinders down to a bore size to use a piston that can not be bought with valve reliefs that will match a canted valve head, thus not only spending $800+ to sleeve the block, but then have to pay extra for custom pistons just to get you a drastically over square engine, that will have the affect of shrouding the valves even worse then they are anyways as well is requiring notching of the top of the cylinder do to the larger valve size you have decided to use. Plus using BBC valves (when you start doing custom work and true HP stuff they no longer associate it with a particular engine BTW)

Also trying to over cool the heads does nothing but increase emissions, reduce effiecency and power. which is why the alky guys work so hard at BUILDING heat before a run.j

Basically I see a post full of off the wall bs trying to impress everyone with how smart you are coming up with using these off the wall parts to get somewhere that makes no sense nor is even remotely logical. I can see using other brand parts to do something that might actually serve a purpose but stating using BBC intake valves is just trying to impress someone, instead a smart person would have said something like using a 2.19 intake valve .150 longer etc. dropping to mopar sized bore that will require the use of custom pistons instead of using a standard bore off the shelf stroker piston that is easily obtainable, and cheaper by far and would actually do a better job then this managerie really isn't impressing anyone.

Next using a N14 cummins turbo on a little 528 cid gas engine is going to have so much lag as to not even be drivable that turbo is ment to spool up being pushed by a 855cid engine, so your engine isn't even going to begin to spool that turbo up until 3000rpm and at 6000rpm you will be lucky to get it to boost 20psi (on a N14 they typically push around 28-30psi boost max at 2100rpm, do the math on the cid)

Next porting D3 heads to achieve 290cfm intake flow, heck you should be able to easily reach 300cfm using 2.08" valve without any trouble, 300 is considered a budget porting job by someone that is actually good at it. and with 2.19 valves a good porter would see 370cfm (scott Johnson is considered by many to be about the best in teh country on factory Iron) But what I do find really amazing is the 245cfm exhaust I mean really since even with the Kaase designed alum heads with the revised valve angles and once again scott J working on them you are getting with 5cfm with factory iron small port head, dang your good.

Also almost every cam manufacture in the country tells you to never run a gear drive on a roller cam the harmonics transfered from the crank will shatter the cam.

 

from 1EVILCREWCAB..."independent cooling systems for heads and block, block runs 210* heads 120*


now from Monsterbaby..."Also trying to over cool the heads does nothing but increase emissions, reduce effiecency and power. which is why the alky guys work so hard at BUILDING heat before a run."

I started drag racing in '95, and one of the first things I learned was to get the heads as warm as possible before a pass, yet keeping everything else as cool as possible. I always saw guys (and still do) with bags of ice on their intakes, although I always thought that the cold HAS to transfer to the heads, therefore I've never done it.

But to say cool heads and a hot block are the ticket for an efficient engine is to be ignorant of thermodynamic laws.

Thought the initial posting of this thread was asinine...
Pat

 

i dont mean to be a smart *** but what is this? https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...171968&width=2

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...171966&width=2

it dont look like no 385 ive ever seen

 

you're right , it isn't a 385 of any sort, it is an industrial international gas v8, it started life as a 605 cube, I built it into a 648 and now it is presently on its way to being a 746 cube, this ISN'T the engine in this post

 

well if ya wana spend money try somthing thats been tested tried and true,start with this and biuld from there http://www.keithblack.com/racing_racehemi.html

 

of coarse in this picture showing the piston of that engine it's listed as having a 5" bore 4.75" stroke so by the math that normal people use it's already a 746 which is amazing how that gallery got edited when the mistake in the math was pointed out in an earlier thread to now it being changed to a 746 when less then 3 days ago that gallery stated those pistons and rods stroke etc was making it a 648, and amazing how now it's a 605 when in other thread the fact that international didn't even build a 648 so had to cover tail on that when called on it too, hmmm sounds like someone stealing pictures and claiming as his own to me while not knowing what it really is and then showing pictures of a turbo sitting on the ground to prove that "and here is the turbos"

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...171975&width=2

BTW the LV 605 (actual designation of that engine) was a gas and natural gas engine produced in the early 70s thru 83 with 220hp weights 1100lbs and the REAL bore and stroke is 4.63" x 4.50 which is not where near what is posted. And it was based on the DV550 diesel as it's foundation. was used mainly as a stationary power unit although was used in some medium duty trucks too. And was the largest of all the gasoline and NG engines produced by international

 

if you could read you would have seen that in the fist place, nothing's been edited or changed since it was put on, never claimed it was a stock dimensioned engine, should pay more attention and you won't look like such an idiot

 

on a gas or other liquid fueled engine you are right, I stated specifically that this is a propane only engine, propane turns to vapour at anything above -44 so heat isn't required to vaporize the fuel, I posted this thread to see what other readers are building, to see if any other new ideas are floating around, i know my system works well , has for over 5 years so i'm not about to change it unless something comes along that is substantially better

 

i read in another post evil you said your making 500hp/600lb ft with your 12:1 comp,turbo charged 530 or whatever inch your motor is. with all that you should be making like twice that. a basic 545 stroker will do that in its sleep all day long, so somethins wrong there, and i think its because its make believe. I've been around this site for a while and i dont post unless i really got an opinion and i hate posts like this

 

Well mr evil, so glad that you have figured out how to change the laws of physics thats great. And you did too edit your gallery. The gallery with the crewcab and that engine was last updated and edited Jan 21, 2008

And also IF you actually bothered to know anything about a international 605 you would have known that it is a wet sleeve engine and can NOT be bored .370" over bore to reach the 5" bore for the piston you show as being from that engine, nor is that piston even from a 605 or a relative according to the international mechanic that lives next door that is a piston from a bigger diesel (yes I had to ask him about this engine because I am not that versed on the international industrial engines) that is right I actually researched before posting.

Oh and on another site you claimed 950hp out of a 370, now which site was that? Oh yeah that was your ebay sign in name until ebay locked that account.