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I have a 1969 F-250 with a 360 in it what symptions could I expect if the power valve or the accelerate pump was not working correctly? I had a recent problem with some popping and backfires out of the carb due to a bent exhaust valve push rod could that blow the power valve out? The engine smokes and had a strong exhaust odor when I rev the motor up. It idleS a little rough and when I rev it up and let off the gas it pops out of the exhaust. Last question I read here on the list sometime ago about someone pulling a lifter out with a magnet I need to replace one and I would like to remove it with out pulling the manifold off. Thanks for any info.
Hi,
The way I understand it, a blown Power valve will cause you to have an always rich mixture condition. The exhaust smell you mention sounds like it is to rich. Also check yer plugs for excess soot. From everything I have read, a Holley's Power valve can be blown out VERY easy from back fires up the carb. But, newer Holley's have built in back fire protection.
If your accel pump is not working the engine will stumble as you get on the gas. Very noticable.
A leaking power valve will produce symptoms similar to those of a float set too high. In addition to those you're seeing, does the engine respond erratically to an idle mixture adjustment?
I am told by oldtimers that the FE lifters can all be removed with the manifold in place. I will have to see this to really believe it, but I have removed the more accessable ones this way. If your motor has high miles and is gummed up, you'll be using pliers to get them out.
Good luck.
Eric
also I forgot to mention that this is a rebuilt carb that was put on prior to the backfiring through the carb so did the rebuilt carbs come with the backfire protection or not?
As to the rebuild question. It is impossable to tell if the blow out protection has been installed without disassembly. Holley and others sell kits to do this. If I remember correctly, you have to drill a small hole into the base plate and insert a spring and check ball.
Checking the power valve is not to difficult. Remove the front bowel and then the primary metering block. The Power valve is screwed into the back of this block. It's about the size of a quarter. It's just a diaphram type valve. Apply suction to it and make sure no air passes through the diaphram. If ya need to replace it, look for a number on the valve. Probably "65". this means that it will operate at 6.5" vacumn.
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