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I would think that the mixing chamber will have bubbles since the return line has bubbles and will mix it with the fresh fuel. Also, if you have a batch of bad fuel, you will have to drop the tank. Chances are it will be in a galaxy far, far away. I like the ITP kit because it removes it all and the filter is outside. Also, I can drain the water away. I have drained a couple teaspoons before.
Yes, but he's under a time crunch. The best thing is to fix it by removing the mixing chamber, replacing the quick-connects, and extending the return, but he's in a hurry. If you keep the fuel level above the mixing chamber, it won't suck air. If you replace the quick-connects it will keep the other major source of air out of the system.
Originally Posted by aklim
Not sure how you will put a regulator in that system other than to take it all out. Yes, you will spend less money today but if you ever decide to change it, you will spend more money tomorrow and more time. I'd rather do it right the first time. If ITP is not advailable I would use DI's regulated return. I am running their system and it works well
You put the regulator where the oriface would be. I have the kit, and the oriface is the "regulator", it just acts as a non-adjustable one.
Sorry, I should be more specific. I choose to run(my personal formula) B-100 from June 1 to September 15th. The rest of the year, I run B-20. Gel point of commercial B-100 is 41*-45* ish. Here at 9000+ft, thing get cold alot sooner and warm up later than most folks are familiar with, making B-100 a risky bet this month.
Since I live right on I-70, #2 is available everywhere. I just choose to go another route, as fuel pricing here is a total racket. 1 1/2 hours west of here, in Denver, fuel can be .40 or .50 cents cheaper per gallon. Shady.
A side note, my rig runs an average of 5-6 psi less boost on B-100 than B-20 and/or straight #2. I'm guessing the lack of BTU's is to blame. Curious if Jody has figured out different programming to bring Bio up near #2 in the performance race......
Sorry, I should be more specific. I choose to run(my personal formula) B-100 from June 1 to September 15th. The rest of the year, I run B-20. Gel point of commercial B-100 is 41*-45* ish. Here at 9000+ft, thing get cold alot sooner and warm up later than most folks are familiar with, making B-100 a risky bet this month.
A side note, my rig runs an average of 5-6 psi less boost on B-100 than B-20 and/or straight #2. I'm guessing the lack of BTU's is to blame. Curious if Jody has figured out different programming to bring Bio up near #2 in the performance race......
OK. Well I guess you will have to talk to DI then. I know ITP is B100 compliant or so they tell me. At least the new kit is.
If it is the lack of BTU and the atmospheric pressure that is to blame, I doubt Jody can do much about that. I drove my Suburban up Scenic Bypass 12 in Utah at over 6000 feet elevation. IIRC, it was about 9000. Anyways, I could not get my truck to go over 30 mph in 2nd gear automatic. It needed the rpms to be making the power so it would not shift out of 2nd gear. That time it was atmospheric pressure that was to blame. You might have the same issue with boost.
FWIW, the CCK is not out of stock. Just some new site growing pains. . Make sure you guys stay tuned though, I will have some new PSD stuff coming out soon. simple things like better boost tube clamps, better fuel systems, Common rail fuel system, etc. you know the simple affordable stuff. Okay, the comon rail will not be very affordable.
I hate to be the idiot here but could someone please tell me what the reason for any tank mod at all is? I'm seeming to gather that it is because the original pump does not get fuel after 3/4 tank.. is this correct? I see these kits all over but have no clue why I would want one.
It does suck air thru the quick connect fittings because those fittings are designed to hold pressure not vacuum. Also, any bubbles go back to the tank into a "mixing chamber" which introduces fresh fuel so you get air in the fuel. The kit will throw the "used" fuel back into the tank further away so it doesn't get sucked up. At 1/4 tank, it has a bypass valve that might suck air. Also, if you get debris in the tank, (I personally know of 2 people who have got bad fuel), what do you think happens? The filters are IN the mixing valve. I have seen debris in mine when I removed it. Where do you think this will happen? In your garage or 100 miles in BFE? What can you do? Drop the tank. With the ITP kit, you will change the filter too. HOWEVER, the filter is a Baldwin 1212 which you can carry in your truck and is external. All it needs is a filter wench. Further to that, if you want, you can dump part of your fuel in the filter because you suspect there might be water. Again, I have found a little water in my filter when I dumped it.
I hate to be the idiot here but could someone please tell me what the reason for any tank mod at all is? I'm seeming to gather that it is because the original pump does not get fuel after 3/4 tank.. is this correct? I see these kits all over but have no clue why I would want one.
Long story short:
There is a mixing valve in the end of the fuel pickup that reintroduces the fuel return line to the fuel feed line that supplies the fuel pump. In addition to that all the quick couplers between the fuel feed line and the fuel pump inlet do a great job of keeping fuel in but a lousy job of keeping air out when there is a slight vacuum situation such as the fuel pump drawing fuel toward it from the fuel tank. Air begins to contaminate the fuel before it gets to the pump and the pump just emulsifies the air into the fuel. From there it goes to the engine and the excess foamy fuel is returned to the fuel tank via the fuel return line straight to the mixing chamber on the fuel pickup in the tank. That foamy fuel is now part of the fuel stream that is drawn toward the pump, through those same quick connects that let in air and now MORE AIR is getting in through those same connectors. It doesn't take long to figure out where this is going. If you have a low tank, all you are going to be driving on is foam, no liquid fuel at all.
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