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Hello Kingnine-Sorry for just now responding. I had to go into the base today on a Sunday to work and just got home. I'm protecting everyone from Terrorists and missing the football games. Isn't fair. Anyway-I checked on both of the transmissions and they are from 3 L's. Sorry-I know that people have been suggesting tranny's from 4 L's because of them being heavier duty, but if you elect to change your mind let me know. Also, the access I have to tranny's is pretty easy for me to get. Our Salvage yard here (Pensacola-me in Niceville 1 hr. drive) sells them for about 75 and there are always about 4 or 5 4.0 ltrs. around. I could assist you anyway I can as far as that goes. I'm trully sorry for everything. I really want to help you.--Respectfully Boz
Here are the things that came to my mind, but it has been so long since I did both transmissions.
1) Bell housing is different since the backside of the engine is different.
2) Torrington roller bearings instead of washer type bearings
3) An additional friction plate in each of the Overdrive and Intermediate drums.
4) The case itself might even be different, even though I'm not at all certain about this.
All in all, I think that if you would just swap the bell housing, a 4.0L transmission can be put on a 3.0L engine since it's more sturdy. However, the reverse is not recommended since a 4.0L engine would put too much stress on the 3.0L version.
Got the tranny from junkyard, got it in, things should be good BUT.....
so a little update. Everyone laugh at Kingnine. Because I was lame, I did not replace the front seal from bellhousing to torque converter. Now it leaks = taking the whole damn thing out again. HA Ha HA!! not funny.
Bought seal puller from autozone, works good for pulling seal out of bellhousing of old tranny, but that one is in pieces. Real easy to access.
Seal puller looks like claw hammer with 2 claws.
Any advise on pulling seal with tranny not pulled apart? I.E. with shaft still sticking out.
Last edited by kingnine; Oct 21, 2007 at 05:22 PM.
common problem with junke yard setters, seals harden and crack
rear pump seals are probably shot also.
pump requires special alignment tool. also seal removal requires delicate metal unstaking of old seal rim and restaking of new seal to hold in place
best to take to tranny shop and have a pro put in the seals and pump alignment.
not done correctly with pump or seals damaged is another pull and repair, not fun
thats the correct seal puller, the seals are a one timer. stakes in old seal must be chiseled loose so that the seal comes out easily.