Yesterday the van stalled. Would not run in drive while stopped. Would not run in reverse when stopped. Ran great in neutral and park.
I can get it to move if i rev it when I shift, but it barks the tires. While it is moving it "feels like a manual transmission" but it is an auto!
Shifts very abruptly, not smooth at all, no slippage. When coming to a stop the van will buck and shudder till it dies, unless i shift into neutral.
This began last week, did it once or twice while slowing down - would start to shudder and shake and generally complain; it cleared up after. But now whatever was going wrong finally gave up and went.
HELP!!!!!

---Thanks!!!!

 

that seem like a torque converter problem, I think.
Michel.

 

thanks for your reply!! I know very little about transmissions. I am hoping the advice I get here will give me a direction to go in. Anybody else have suggestions?

 

Depending on year the trans clutch is controlled by a solenoid. Try this. Disconnect electrical plug at side of trans.The van will not start. You need to put in park and jump it at the solenoid near the battery. If the problem is gone chances it may be either the solenoid in the valve block or a sticking clutch shuttle valve. This requires the valve block being removed and checked for seizure. The other problem may be the converter lock up piston in the converter itself. This means trans out for new converter. Hope this helps.

 

Sounds like your low on fluid. Add another 1/2 a quart and see what happens.

 

Kingnine described a bucking engine that would not idle smoothly, and stalls when the load of the transmission is applied. I think it's more like something wrong with the engine. A bad vacuum leak will cause poor running condition like you described.

Open the dog house and look on the rear of the driver's side of the intake manifold. There is a vacuum tree with a lot of lines and some ports plugged. See if there are any ports that have nothing on them.

Sometimes if you don't start the engine with the first crank, it will back fire through the intake manifold, which can pop those plugs or lines off of the vacuum tree. If a line pops off, you can reconnect it. If a plug pops off, you will probably not find it in again.

 

xlt4wd90-

Thanks for your reply!

The engine runs smooth. runs great! the problem lies in the transmission making the engine die because (I think) something is locked up inside it and won't let the engine spin when the vehicle isn't moving. I was reading another recent post and there was a suggestion in it. There is some kind of spring in the torque converter that does something.... ?
Does anybody know about this spring? The poster stated that this spring is a common failure point in these trannys. How hard is this spring to replace? If I have a shop do the work what should they charge? Can I do this myself with little transmission knowledge? (I am good with repairs, just not transmissions... LOL)


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</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 25px" width="100%"> </TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap>Join Date: May 2002
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</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><!-- / user info --></TD></TR><TR><TD class=alt1><!-- message, attachments, sig --><!-- icon and title -->A4LD Transmission Question
<HR style="COLOR: #666666" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message --><TABLE><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width="100%">I have been building these transmissions for a long time now since I work at a dealer. Here are the most commons problems with these trans-

no reverse or shudders in reverse- center support seals
doesn't move at all and /or "whirring" noise- frt planetary or torque converter stripped.
Engine stalls immediately when put into gear- torque converter spring broken in valve body


Now, I realize that there are a lot more things that CAN go wrong with these trans, but these are the most common things I have dealt with over the years.
As far as overhauls are concerned, any COMPETENT shop should be able to do it. There is no magic involved in building an A4LD or even it later electronic versions. Just has to be cleaned,properly inspected,
and reassembled with all clearances adjusted to the "tight" side of the spec. This along with proper care and maintenance will last a long time. Just my .02 worth. Later, Rick

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ok so tranny man in town found "debris". this means new tranny. I am so mad. New question. CAN A 5r55e fit and work in a 91 aerostar without modifications?

 

no
5r55e requires PCM for shift control from 97 van

 

Define "Debris"
What did He find? Shavings/Flakes or Chunks?
Shavings/Flakes is normal, Chunks are Not.

I just got a book and rebuilt both of mine. Ordered the parts from:
www.bulkpart.com
Rebuild cost less than $400.00 @

JaY

 

JT, I remember a while back you said you were going take pics and share the rebuild of the A4LD. Were you able to do that? Did you post them someplace? I am nearing that point with my '94 tranny. She's got 210K miles behind a 3.0L and I want to upgrade her to the 4.0L torque specs since I pull a light pop-up camper. Any recommendations?


Michael
'93 3.0L Aero RWD EXT (210K Miles)

 

you'll need the 4L torque converter to get the double lockup clutch
also use the Torrington bearings instead of bronze bushing and the heavier drums if cost is no object
Alto Red frictions and their Kolene steels

parts
http://www.transmissioncenter.org/a4ld.htm

http://www.altousa.com/pdf/catalogs/cat2005.pdf
pg 117

 

Well. first check fuid level and correct it.

now disconnect wires from tranny (may be T/C clutch solenoid is always on), ore may by TC clucth solenoid is stucked.

 

OK so the verdict: the snap ring on the overdrive? came loose and the tranny tore itself apart. So everyone I ask wants a lot of money to rebuild it. Found one used in local parts yard. I know very little bout trannys. Assuming this parts yard is reputable (and over years of going there I belive they are), and assuming I get the thing in right, what are some things I should do right away to clean this new tranny? Adjustments? Maybe there is some $2 seal that I should replace before I put the transmission in? Any suggestions? Help please!!!!!

 

Front and rear seal, Pull pan and replace Filter (Don't for get to replace the O-rings on filter), Have Torque Convertor Flushed, Replace Shift Modulator while you have it out it's easier then(Don't
lose the pin in the end of it or it won't shift), Adjust the Bands.

That should do it.

Sound about right Guys/Gals?

JaY