New engine wont start
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Elder User
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New engine wont start
I rebuilt my 400, .030 over, comp cams 241-4 cam, tmeyer cast pistons, magnum timing chain and gears, new lifter, converted over to adjustable rockers with 1.72 roller tips. The new crank gear could either be set at 4 degrees retarted, straight up, or 4 degrees advance, i set it just to 0.
Well, i've been having trouble getting it started. I had it running once, but it sounded like crap, and when i put a timing light on it, it said it was about 20 degrees retarted, i couldnt move the distributor anymore to compensate for it.
As of now, i set it to TDC, put the distributor right at number 1 spark plug, and when i try to fire it up it just sputters and backfires out the carburator.
Anyone have any ideas whats going on here?
Well, i've been having trouble getting it started. I had it running once, but it sounded like crap, and when i put a timing light on it, it said it was about 20 degrees retarted, i couldnt move the distributor anymore to compensate for it.
As of now, i set it to TDC, put the distributor right at number 1 spark plug, and when i try to fire it up it just sputters and backfires out the carburator.
Anyone have any ideas whats going on here?
Last edited by RJR99SS; Sep 24, 2007 at 04:30 PM.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
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From: NE Texas
So are you saying that you pulled the distributor and reinstalled it such that you now have your timing correct? If so, that's fine for the ignition timing, but what about the cam timing.
I would put a compression gauge on a cylinder and make sure that you have good compression. If the cam is off a notch it will show up with a compression test, because the engine will not have full compression in such a case.
Good luck,
I would put a compression gauge on a cylinder and make sure that you have good compression. If the cam is off a notch it will show up with a compression test, because the engine will not have full compression in such a case.
Good luck,
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Well i know the cam timing is right, because i checked it about 10 times before i put the front cover on it, i was really nuerotic about that because i didnt want to try to start it and run into this sort of problem and then have to tear everything back down again.
I'm starting to think the problem is the pushrods. I'm using the stock length, and they're about .100" too long by my measurments. I was hoping i could just slap it together and get it running for a little while, just so i could move it around the yard and such, until i got the right length ones (if i ordered the right ones today i wouldnt get them until the middle of next month). so...i'm thinking the longer pushrods are keeping the intake valves are staying open longer than they should and causing it to backfire out the carb.
I'm starting to think the problem is the pushrods. I'm using the stock length, and they're about .100" too long by my measurments. I was hoping i could just slap it together and get it running for a little while, just so i could move it around the yard and such, until i got the right length ones (if i ordered the right ones today i wouldnt get them until the middle of next month). so...i'm thinking the longer pushrods are keeping the intake valves are staying open longer than they should and causing it to backfire out the carb.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: NE Texas
With the adjustable rockers, you shouldn't be seeing this as a problem. You should be able to adjust the valves to compensate for push rod length, at least enough to start the engine. The geometry may not be right, if adjusted correctly it should at least run.
Best of luck and keep us posted.
Best of luck and keep us posted.
Last edited by MBDiagMan; Sep 24, 2007 at 07:45 PM.
Posting Guru
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From: western montana
Originally Posted by MBDiagMan
With the adjustable rockers, you shouldn't be seeing this as a problem. You should be able to adjust the valves to compensate for push rod length, at least enough to start the engine. The geometry may not be right, if adjusted correctly it should at least run.
Best of luck and keep us posted.
Best of luck and keep us posted.
TMeyer stocks many pushrod lengths...what size do you need? I take it you used an adjustable pushrod to come up with the proper geometry.
You probably watched the intake valve open and close right prior to finding tdc so you should not be 180 off....i did that once by brain fart...blew out power valve on holly...if you have a holly it could be it as well...blown power valves suck.
the basics as i look at it are firing order, 180*off, power valve, intake valve not closing or not sealing, timing chain installed wrong, .....punt
i'm punting on mine now and ripping it apart.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2007
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I sure you checked already but I'll say it cause thats where I start then work my way out firing order is correct with distributor rotation? what are the plugs gapped at? may want to give them a little extra snot like 3-5 more than normal, check for fouling or wet plugs. The carb isn't dumping fuel is it? which leads me back to the timing chain or incorrect cam did you check the mark on the cam when you got it? it that a 32-241-4 or 33-241-4 or 36-241-4 or ??? I am assuming a 32 or CL32
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I've checked and double checked the firing order, it's right.
So far i've spun the balancer around to 0, and number 1 piston is all the way up, and the distributor is pointing right at number 1 plug. That means it's dead on ignition timing right?
The only thing i could think of was the pushrods were too long. I made sure the cam timing was right before i put everything back together, i must of checked it about 10 times. I really dont want to rip everything back apart, only to find out i was right and it's dead on.
At this point i'm trying to find out what else it could be. The plugs are gapped right about .044", the plugs are wet with gas so it seems like it's not firing for some reason.
As for the carb, yeah it's a brand new holley. I wouldnt think a blown power valve would cause it to not start or run at all like this would it?
So far i've spun the balancer around to 0, and number 1 piston is all the way up, and the distributor is pointing right at number 1 plug. That means it's dead on ignition timing right?
The only thing i could think of was the pushrods were too long. I made sure the cam timing was right before i put everything back together, i must of checked it about 10 times. I really dont want to rip everything back apart, only to find out i was right and it's dead on.
At this point i'm trying to find out what else it could be. The plugs are gapped right about .044", the plugs are wet with gas so it seems like it's not firing for some reason.
As for the carb, yeah it's a brand new holley. I wouldnt think a blown power valve would cause it to not start or run at all like this would it?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Albuquerque
You could still be 180 out on the timing. The piston has to be on the compression stroke. You can get there by holding your thumb "over" not in the spark plug hole and you will hear the air comming out.
Did you adjust the valves for the proper preload?
Simple things first.
Did you adjust the valves for the proper preload?
Simple things first.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: NE Texas
beartracks may very well be onto it. Having the rotor point at the number one wire while the number one piston is at TDC is not enough. It must be on the compression stroke. Check for the compression stroke as beartracks describes.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Eustis FL
Also, you can set your balancer timing mark at whatever your initial timing should be instead of TDC, and then check that the rotor is at number one...
But yeah, setting timing on the wrong stroke will net results you describe... (I stick a compression gauge on number one and tap the starter until the pressure comes up)
But yeah, setting timing on the wrong stroke will net results you describe... (I stick a compression gauge on number one and tap the starter until the pressure comes up)
Posting Guru
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From: western montana
I like to watch the intake valve on #1 open and close prior to it hitting th -0- mark....also I just used the tdc tool on my 400 and the -0- mark was a degree off....not a huge deal but if it's more than 3 you might get the dist on the wrong tooth (or it would be easier too. using a dial indicator you should be able to get the spec on intake closing and match to cam sepc to see if the timing was installed right. if your off by a bit then you might have muffed getting it in right...but I doubt that.
from the way you described the piston at tdc (w/o specifying compression stroke) i'm thinking your 180 out.
from the way you described the piston at tdc (w/o specifying compression stroke) i'm thinking your 180 out.
Posting Guru
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From: western montana
Originally Posted by mark a.
You should have the crank set at 10 deg btdc before you put the dizzy in.
