Ok, so new problem. I set the balancer to 0, put the distributor in on number 1. Turns out, yeah i was 180 degrees off.

So now it starts and runs, but when i put a timing light on it it's showing about 20 degrees retarded, and it runs like crap, wont rev past 2 grand. If i turn the distributor either way, it stalls it out.

I guess i'll try setting the distributor at 10 degrees retarded....

 

The distributor needs to be turned clockwise to advance the timing. Try 10 degrees BTDC. Do you have number one spark plug as passenger side, front for the test? Just checking... (I've seen people try driver side front, thinking that was number one... Doesn't work too good)

 

No, i've been using the number one on the passanger side.

It looks like counter clockwise is what advances it. As of right now i can get it to about 15 degrees retarted (without the vacuum advance hooked up), and if i advance it anymore than that it just stalls out.

Not really sure what the heck the problem is now. I think i'll go back and set the lifter pre-load again just to be sure.

 

Could your harmonic balancer have slipped? i.e. the ring turned on the hub?

 

I dont think so, because the when the balancer is at 0, the number one piston is at tdc.

 

Well, i rechecked the lifter preload, and i upped the idle up to about 700, i can advance it to about maybe 4 or 6 degrees retarted, then it starts stalling out.

It runs...but it just doesnt sound right for some reason. Way too lumpy. One problem is i'm just running open headers (this is a purely off-road vehicle), another problem is it has a cam in it like i say...so...i have no idea if thats the way it's supposed to sound, or whether something is wrong, i'll keep an eye on it.

Like i said, i know the pushrods are too long, but i just wanted to get it together and running for a little while, maybe things will improve once i get the right ones.

 

Lets wait for the proper length pushrods then try again...
Even with a lumpy cam, the engine should still run smooth, but the note will be, well, 'different'... lol
Did you try a compression test yet?

 

The cam is an XE256. It should be a smooth idle with good vacuum.

Did you install the kit, as well as the cam? The stock springs could be binding with the extra lift of this cam.

 

Yeah, i installed the whole K-kit, new springs, timing chain, lifters, the whole deal.

After further tinkering, i had it running pretty damn good. But then it started making a knocking noise, i think one of my rocker arms backed off, i dunno, it was raining all day and finally i just said screw it, i'll get back into it tomorrow.

 

glad to see your seeing some progress...i was sure it was the 180 gig...like i said...been there done that...want carb are you running? turning the distr clockwise will advance/ counter retard...some marine apps hav reversed cams. if counter was advancing some of the 'tinkering would have been to change the wires to run counter in the distributor i bet...not like it's otional or anything.

anyway...good luck...i'll be having another go at mine this weekend...new head gaskets and this time going it absolutely alone to remain better focused on each detail... loving it

 

Well a couple of the rocker arms backed off. I installed the guidplate conversion kit but i tried using some different nuts for the rocker arms. The problem i got with the locknuts that came with the rocker arms was they really grabbed ahold of the stud way too much. I tried to back one of them off and it unscrewed the stud right out of the head. I had to put the stud in a vice and use and impact on it to get the nut off. Plus, it looked like the locknut really chewed up the threads on the stud. So...i didnt want to use them, i tried using some regular nuts with a small locknut over top of them, but apparently that didnt work seeing how they backed off. So i just put the locknuts on, and hope i dont have to take them back off for quite a while.


But....i'm kind of back to square one, as of right now it runs, but poorly.

This is what confuses me, it "sounds" like it's running its best when it's way off the retarted scale according the balancer it's probably around 30 degrees retarted.

According to the balancer, when i turn it counter clockwise, i'm advancing it. But, from my experience when you advance an engine, it starts sounding better and speeds up, but when i "Advance" this counter-clockwise i'll get it up to about 4 or 6 degrees retarted and it'll stall out after that, sounds terrible too. I've never heard of an engine stalling out because it's advanced to much, it'll ping like crazy yeah but advancing it usually gets nothing but good results until it starts pinging, i'm not hearing that.

However, when i turn it clockwise, the balancer is saying it's retarding, and it'll go clear off the btc scale, but it sounds a lot better and runs smoother.

So....i'm thinking i got the wrong balancer or something's going on there. I'm just using the same balancer and distributor that came with the truck, who knows if they're original or even the right ones...

 

There's a good possibility of that too...
I would just check your firing order, then set timing by ear to see how it runs. When I do it, I just put the trans in drive, hold the brake and hit the gas. It there is ping, I back the timing off. No ping, advance. I advance to the point just before ping, without actually getting ping. (that's a whole lotta ping in that paragraph! lol)
Did you check your cam for wiped lobes? You can measure your rocker arms at their highest point (pushrod side) referenced to the top of the head casting height and see if there are any low rockers when you rotate the engine to full open valve. (You can even measure for your advertised total valve lift on the valve side)

 

You should get a piston stop, and find true TDC on #1 cylinder. If your balancer doesn't agree, then you need a new balancer. If the balancer does agree, you should degree the cam to be sure it is installed correctly.

 

If you get a piston stop, you will also need a degree wheel to go with it. Set the stop in the sprak plug hole, turn engine until it stops, mark the degree, turn engine other way, mark degree, count degrees between the marks, divide by two, and that is TDC.