rebuild info
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Senior User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 160
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From: usa
rebuild info
well i've almost talked my self in to an engine rebuild (sort of) since my cam bearings are shot. here is what i planed on doing since i have to have my truck and money is tight. tear it down to just the block, then take it and have the bearings put in and the cylinders honed. i was then going to add new rings and rod bearings. i already have or in the past couple of weeks installed, oil pump, timing chain and gear set, cam and lifters, and mains. the heads will have to wait since i just cann't afford that right now, but i figure they can be pulled with the motor in the truck and my main concern is doing what needs to be done while it is out. now for some questions,
does this sound ok?
has anyone had any block work done around ga. and could give ne some prices? on like cam bearing instalation, cylinder honing, and having the block cleaned?
i know this ain't the best way to do this, but i kind of between a rock and a hard place.
does this sound ok?
has anyone had any block work done around ga. and could give ne some prices? on like cam bearing instalation, cylinder honing, and having the block cleaned?
i know this ain't the best way to do this, but i kind of between a rock and a hard place.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
rebuild info
You can do a decent rebuild pretty cheap. I think my shop charged me like 40 bucks for my final hone after they charged me $90 to bore it to .060. If you don't need a bore don't get it. They charge about $15 to run the block through caustic soda to clean it. Cam bearings are about $20 to install and about $20 to buy. Rod & Main bearings are going to cost you about $70 total. Get a rebuild gasket kit from felpro and you are all set. You can even do the oiling mods for free. I would really suggest ARP rod bolts for $50. It will cost you a little more because you will have to have the rods resized on the big end. Buy your parts from summit racing. Obviously you are not building a race motor here but they have the cheapest prices on stuff like this compared to autozone etc...
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 160
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From: usa
rebuild info
it just keeps getting better and better. got it out and FINALLY in my little shop. started going over the engine and taking it down. noticed 2 busted springs on the valves, the clutch is shot, of course it ate into the fly wheel. on the brighter side the pistons and cylenders look good, no scaring that i've seen yet. so i guess i get to add springs and a clutch set also.
i wanted to get to know my engine but not this way .
i wanted to get to know my engine but not this way .
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
rebuild info
At least your cylinders look good. Hopefully a hone will do it. Springs can be gotten pretty cheap and are easy to replace now that you have the head off. Sorry to hear about the clutch. Not sure what that is going to set you back.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 160
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From: usa
rebuild info
life is good. got everything apart and decided to try the socket and threaded rod to remove the cam bearings. OH YEA !! WORKED LIKE A CHARM! after clean up the cylinders look very good, no scoring at all, rod bearings are smooth as glass. someone has been in it before i don't think ford would have used blue rtv to assemble everything. my guess is i'm missing something major or they got to the cam and seen the bearings put what parts they had it it and sold the truck to someone who turned around and sold it to a big sucker like me.:-X11 so i'm cleaning everything myself, going to install the bearings and stick it back together. i belive you mentioned oil modifications, what do i need to do? i did notice that my mains cover about half the hole should they be enlarged (mains) to where there is a full open hole?
thanks for all the help. i'd go party now but, my butt is just now dragging in the door.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
rebuild info
Yes the mains should be chamfered (not drilled)to match the bearings. You will need a long 7/16" drill bit to drill out the passage from the oil pump to the oil filter pad. This needs to be drilled from both ways since there is an elbow in the gallery. MAKE SURE not to go too far from either direction or you will go through the gallery. Install a Melling M57HV oil pump and ARP pump drive shaft ($14) and you are ready to go. I really suggest having the machine shop install the cam bearings if you've never done it before. The install should only cost you $20.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,931
Likes: 12
From: SW Michigan
rebuild info
BikerWolf, if you already have them out I guess I am too late. But I am wondering what makes you think your cam bearings are 'shot' ? At the machine shop where I'm working, we regularly replace cam bearings, but that is because 2 of our 3 cleaning systems destroy them (caustic soda and an oven). They are very rarely worn, I don't ever recall seeing cam gearings in an FE that were no good anymore.....Whats up ? DF
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Senior User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 160
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From: usa
rebuild info
the bearings have what appears to be a thin lead covering. this is gone from most of mine leaving just the core with a split, looks like a "U" on one side and a matching tang on the other side where the bearing was rolled and put together, and the new timing chain has a visiable sag on the crank shaft gear. the camshaft when installed before i pulled the engine could be moved up and down about a 1/16 of an inch or more, and their was big handfull of metal i got out of the oilpan with the bearings, cam and lifters the only thing i could see with any wear. that was the deciding factor in replacing the bearings. i whished they were not worn i would have saved myself a lot of work. the lifters are what really supprised me they have a pretty good dip in them, and some of them are showing a crack around the bottom. no wonder i had a lifter that kept on ticking no matter what i did.
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