Well, I got 16 quarts of mercon V and a filter and went at it today... First attempt was to disconnect cooler lines near the trans and 'tap in' there. I removed the cooler return line and ran a new hose from there to my new fluid. I had read on the 'net somewhere that a guy did this and siphoned new fluid in. I was skeptical, but willing to give it a try. A added hose to the other end of the unhooked the return line and routed it to a drain pan. Results were less than perfect.

First of all, the transmission would not siphon new fluid through my hose, I went to plan B which was to dump fluid through the filler tube. The second problem was with the dirty oil tube which was hooked up near the transmission- The easiest area to 'tap in' was at this metal block, which was plumbed into both lines. It must have been some sort of bypass and old fluid went everywhere upon startup. I pumped air through the lines, blowing all old fluid out of the coolers and went with plan B- Rehooking up those lines and unhooking at the aux. cooler, draining the old fluid there. After that, things got better.

After pumping out about 2-3 quarts, I stopped and changed the filter and reinstalled the cover. From there I just refilled with the approximate amount of old fluid that had been pumped out and started, cycled throught the gears, and started over.

I ended up using about 18 quarts of new fluid, and I feel like I probably got most of the old fluid out. Cost was just under $100 for the trans. I also flushed my P/S fluid and changed the rear end oil while the garage was set up.



Reflections:

The metal block I described needs to be researched more before I flush next time; It must allow for multiple fluid paths...The dirty fluid drain point becomes more important if thats the case.

I think I will look for a good deal on mercon V and do this again in a year or two, skipping the filter change.

I plan on doing the wifes grand caravan next.

I was at 120K (2004 4.6L) and the pan and magnet were pretty clean.

good luck -jim

 

Cool. Thanks for the update.

Did you notice any difference in driveability?

 

To be honest, I can't feel any difference in shifting. It shifted well before and after the change. I will have this truck for a while though, which is why I wanted as much fluid changed as possible....


-jim

 

That procedure you mentioned was for a 4RW75 tranny,not a 4RW70.

 

The metal block you describe, is a cold temp bypass. unless the trans is at operating temp fluid doesn't flow to the cooler!

 

I did this at 30k. I now have 52k on my truck. I plan on doing this every 30k.
Here is my write up, which goes along with how GUESSROW did his.

Here are some tips that may come in handy if you decide to do the transmission maintenance yourself.Transmission: 4R75W
ATF type: Mercon V
1. I dropped the transmission pan and changed the filter also...not necessary, but I wanted to see how dirty the pan was...I used a Motorcraft transmission filter $21.00 at my local Ford dealer (Part # FT-105). The transmission pan bolts are 10mm (14 of them). There is no drain plug on the pan so be careful loosening those last couple bolts....Just an FYI: Don't be alarmed if you find a "dust plug" sitting in the bottom of your pan. This is punched out and into the pan at the factory. This plug keeps foreign debris from getting into the transmission during assembly at the factory.
2. Clean the pan (mine was pretty clean @ 30k)
3. Remove old filter (if changing), simply pull straight down on the old filter (make sure the rubber sealing grommet comes off with the old filter.
4. Gently push on new filter.
5. Install drain pan with reusable gasket. Bolt torque is 10 ft-lbs.
5. Add as many quarts of ATF as you removed from the pan (I had ~5.5 quartz in the pan). ATF is added through trans dip stick tube.
6. Next I flushed the transmission to replace all the old trans fluid with new.
7. Ford stopped installing torque converter drain plugs (I believe in 2003)...
7. To flush the transmission, I used 5/8" inner diameter clear tubing (10 feet). I bought mine at my local Home Depot (~ $5). Also, a 5-gallon bucket comes in handy to catch the used ATF.
8. I unbolted the lines going into and out of the transmission cooler (behind the front bumper). The fittings were 7/8".
9. Install the 5/8" inner diameter tubing onto the lines and into a bucket.
10. Start the truck, and let ~ 1 to 2 quarts flow out of the tubing lines. Turn off the truck and add the same amount of ATF fluid you just pumped out of the transmission. Keep doing this flush and replace method until you have pumped out and replaced about 9 quarts of fluid....you'll notice the fluid coming out of the cooler lines getting cleaner and cleaner as the old fluid is being flushed out. The total transmission fluid capacity is 13.9 quarts.
11. Reinstall the cooling lines...
12. Clean up and check your trans fluid level is at the proper level....13. Go for a test drive to warm up the fluid (~20miles per the manual)
14. Recheck your fluid level, should be in the "hot" range with the engine running, transmission in park, and truck sitting level.
15. Congratulate yourself on saving ~ $100 bucks by flushing the transmission yourself.Notes of interest: I didn't have a magnet in the bottom of my drain pan. Let me know if you guys find one in your transmission drain pans...Maybe Ford stopped installing magnets in the drain pans? Maybe mine was left out from the factory? If so, I'll have to install one next transmission service.

 

I had a donut (actually, washer) shaped magnet stuck to my pan. The bottom of the pan had 3 ribs and a spherical pattern stamped on the bottom of the pan. The sphere kept the magnet from moving around and the ribs held it off the pan a bit allowing for more surface area of the magnet. The stamp is visible from the outside of the pan.

My pan was quite clean. There was a fine layer of something stuck to the magnet. Looked like silt or even sludge,very fine material whatever the case. Very happy, at 120k didn't know what to expect. The dust plug was there, so I assume it was the first change.


BTW, I will never pay to have a fluid change again; way too easy. I don't think the dealer would do a better job and it's a lot cheaper. Going to insulate and finish my garage this winter. I have a 70,000 btu ceiling heater sitting in the basement just waiting to be installed. I would like to do the timing chain, water pump, etc some cold winter day. I like getting out and turning wrenches. Nothing better than looking out of a heated garage at a big old pile of snow! I get a lot of satrisfaction doing things myself. I probably need to get out more!?

oh, also, what is the recommended interval for changing the timing chain(s).
What else can I change while in there??


good luck -jim

 

Midas has a special right now. Trans flush was $74.99. Cheapest place I could find. I'm going to wait until I get a Mag-Hytec pan before I change the filter.

 

oh, also, what is the recommended interval for changing the timing chain(s).
What else can I change while in there??


good luck -jim[/QUOTE]

guessrow,
I've read the timing chains are designed to last ~300k miles.
I had a 1996 Mustang GT with the 4.6L modular. At 100k my timing chains looked new.
I wouldn't worry about the timing chains....these chains are nice heavy duty chains....Its nice not having a rubber timing belt to replace every 60k (like most 4 cylinder motors.)