Wont start below 80 deg.
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Wont start below 80 deg.
I just purchased a 95 F-350 PS crew cab XL 4x4, I did'nt realy want the truck
but a friend of a friend had it and needed to get rid of it bad. The truck is straight and interior is good. I bought it knowing it had a starting problem but I only paid 5K so I figured I could put some money into it. The only way I can get it to start is on the block heater, then after it starts it sounds like its only hitting on 5 cylinders until warms to about 170 deg then almost instantly it clears up and runs great. I found reciepts in the glove box for replacing glow plugs and valve cover gaskets in late 2005 about 15,000 miles ago, its got 182K now. The truck has been sitting since 11-06 and I haven't done anything yet. Any ideas on where to start?
but a friend of a friend had it and needed to get rid of it bad. The truck is straight and interior is good. I bought it knowing it had a starting problem but I only paid 5K so I figured I could put some money into it. The only way I can get it to start is on the block heater, then after it starts it sounds like its only hitting on 5 cylinders until warms to about 170 deg then almost instantly it clears up and runs great. I found reciepts in the glove box for replacing glow plugs and valve cover gaskets in late 2005 about 15,000 miles ago, its got 182K now. The truck has been sitting since 11-06 and I haven't done anything yet. Any ideas on where to start?
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: MICHIGAN
Welcome to FTE, You stole that truck IMO. You could put $2-3K more into it and still be way ahead. Listen to what these ^^guys^^are telling you, you'll be up and running in no time. Spend some time searching this forum too, for your specific concerns, there is a ton of info about your truck and has likely been brought up before.
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Thanks, I'll go ahead and replace the GPR although it is getting battery voltage though it for about 45 sec after the key is turned on, then shuts off. The voltage at the relay and the battery are 13.3 the drop down to 11.6 when key turned on for that 45 sec, after that the voltage rebounds back to about 12.7. I'll get the oil and filters changed no telling when they were changed last anyway and see if that helps. Not sure about the batteries it seems to have the ability to chank a long time just doesn' want to light. Do these engines ever have compression problems?
FOREIGN GURU
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Celaya, Gto. MX
Originally Posted by zvacsource
Not sure about the batteries it seems to have the ability to chank a long time just doesn' want to light. Do these engines ever have compression problems?
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Wont start under 80deg
Ok, I did everything suggested oil/filter change, fuel filter, GPR, new batteries and still wont start cold. I checked each GP using the test light method as well as 12V going to each GP, all checked out. The fuel PSI when cranking is 40. It seems to run good when warmed up but I did notice today that it stumbles at no load high idle and makes some blue smoke. The GPs are only 15K old could they check out with a test light and still be bad? Haven't scanned it yet Autozone didn't have the tool for a 95. Any new ideas?
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Lead Driver
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From: Belair md
the test ligth method isnt the best, defintatly want to ohm each one out. a scan tool that can read pid data would also be a big help. if glow plugs check out good then you want to start looking at icp pressure while cranking but what you describe still sounds like glow plug issues or a possible under cover harness. the stumble and light smoke sounds like possible injector o-rings. when the motor is up to temp and in park, put it to the floor and let it hit the limiter. it should go right up quick and smooth, if it stumbles and smokes then o-rings are leaky
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Ya it seems just slightly off when you rev it in neutral but not all the time, the last 200 RPM before it hits the gov. is when it starts to stumble. I did notice a little black smoke out the pipe when trying to get it to fire this morning. I'll ohm out the GPs this week is 2.3 ohms the right number?
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OK, I need some more ideas, i've changed all glow plugs and relay and verified all 8 are working. Changed all injecter O-rings, still will not start cold im thinking a fuel problem. While cranking it acts like it wants to fire but just cant, no smoke out the pipe at all. It will fire right off on starting fluid but even then it doesn't want to stay running until it gets some temp into it. I'm going to do a blow by test to see if this engine is toast maybe it's got bad compression but when warmed up it starts and runs good. The other thing I noticed is at high idle even after changing O-rings it misses a little and I get a fair amount of blue smoke. Any ideas?
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Herndon KY
Yeah up top there is a link in the sponsor section for lubrication specialties, he sells Hot Shot Secrets. I think as you read the literature that it may help you out. I had similar problems, not as severe, cleared up after running 100 miles. I would buy it put it in and drive it for a couple hundred miles and then continue to trouble shoot. Chris Gale is a real good guy, and a member of the forum, you can PM him with any questions. this link may work also taking you to the site.
http://65.247.66.223/closeup.asp?cid=9&pid=102&offset=0
http://65.247.66.223/closeup.asp?cid=9&pid=102&offset=0
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: West Palm Beach, Florida
A cold engine, hard-start, rough running problem can indicate that one or two of your injectors has a bleed-down problem. The fuel that is perfectly portioned and ready to start your engine when you restart is bleeding down out of the injector and then when you go to restart the cylinder is overloaded with raw fuel and the injector has an empty fuel reservoir in it which throws the injector out of whack because the high pressure oil system then closes down the fuel part of the injector and it is dry firing until the engine warms up and the injector gets filled back up with the proper combination of fuel in the one part and high pressure oil in the other part. Whew long sentence. Sorry. Gotta go out right now but a cold engine, injector disable test or cylinder contribution test followed by a warm engine test will verify that a cylinder is not working properly until the engine has warmed up and the injector has gotten fueled back up. When the engine is cold the cylinder will not change the operation of the engine but when it's warm dropping the cylinder out of the loop will affect the engine running performance.
