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I was concerned about my fix also and having them leak again. When I installed the donuts, I coated them with grease and installed, lined everything backup and tightened down. My reasoning for the grease is to fill in any imperfection that maybe found in either the donut or the pipe. The grease when heated turns to carbon and makes a seal. I learned this when installing donuts and exhaust manifold gaskets on gas engines. I've never had one leak so I thought I would try on the diesel. It's been one week and 300 miles later, no leak. With that said, if I had the cash at the time, I too would have installed the bellows setup. Just my fix and 2 cents. Good Luck.
Jeff
My reasoning for the grease is to fill in any imperfection that maybe found in either the donut or the pipe. The grease when heated turns to carbon and makes a seal. I learned this when installing donuts and exhaust manifold gaskets on gas engines. I've never had one leak so I thought I would try on the diesel. It's been one week and 300 miles later, no leak.
I can see that working on gas engines, or anything that is a non-turbocharged application. Also that can work if the new donuts are already making a pretty decent seal. However, if your pipes are worn where the donut gasket sits, then that carbon seal won't hold for very long. Exhaust backpressure with the stock .84 turbine housing can spike well over 35 psi. A small carbon seal can't hold that for very long.
I was concerned about my fix also and having them leak again. When I installed the donuts, I coated them with grease and installed, lined everything backup and tightened down. My reasoning for the grease is to fill in any imperfection that maybe found in either the donut or the pipe. The grease when heated turns to carbon and makes a seal. I learned this when installing donuts and exhaust manifold gaskets on gas engines. I've never had one leak so I thought I would try on the diesel. It's been one week and 300 miles later, no leak. With that said, if I had the cash at the time, I too would have installed the bellows setup. Just my fix and 2 cents. Good Luck.
Jeff
I did the same thing, except I used Lubro-Moly copper based anti-sieze. The same stuff that I put on spark plug threads. It uses some sort of thick lubricant as a carrier agent.
The passenger side is black after less than 10,000 miles, so don't expect those donuts to last very long.
Driver's side is still holding, but I'm not waiting for it to give up. First opportunity those things are coming out and hitting the trash barrel.
Hey Dan, Do you have any idea why the right side donuts leak first then the left side?
From what I have read here, I get the impression that the right side is the first to go. That was the case with mine. Just curious.
Jeff
I think it boils down to manufacturing tolerances. Just whatever side is a little looser lets go first.
I used brand new pipes and donuts last time and they still gave up that quickly.
ok, I'm going to buy the bellows and do it right. I have a oil leak coming from the top of the motor somwhere that drains down the side by the pan. is there somthing around the turbo I can replace while i have it off like o rings or something?
Turbo pedastal orings, check all the hpop fittings on the heads. check the fuel lines and housing. On the uppipes cut the bolts on the manifolds with a cutoff wheel,(pull the inner fender on the passenger side.)pull the turbo and pedastal. It takes a little while more, but as you get in there, you will start to fine things that are broke or need fixing.
ok, I'm going to buy the bellows and do it right. I have a oil leak coming from the top of the motor somwhere that drains down the side by the pan. is there somthing around the turbo I can replace while i have it off like o rings or something?
Replace your turbo and pedestal orings. There are 4 in all. Simple procedure while everything is out anyway. Another possible leak culprit would be the EBPV piston assembly in the pedestal. Mine was leaking when I took the pedestal out and I just deleted it and plugged up the holes since I don't see any cold temps.
Hey Dan, Do you have any idea why the right side donuts leak first then the left side?
From what I have read here, I get the impression that the right side is the first to go. That was the case with mine. Just curious.
Jeff
Murphys law. Because they are the harder ones to get to. The drivers side you can tighten but the pass side is a real pain.
Do I need to buy turbo and ped o rings? I want to make sure i have everything before i tear things down. this is my daily driver and hope to have it back together in a weekend. what about the ebpv, Can i eliminate mine? i see cold wheather in the winter but I was told this will get me worse mpg.
Do I need to buy turbo and ped o rings? I want to make sure i have everything before i tear things down. this is my daily driver and hope to have it back together in a weekend. what about the ebpv, Can i eliminate mine? i see cold wheather in the winter but I was told this will get me worse mpg.
for the price of o-rings id change them out..your already there any ways.
there is 4 o-rings..2 for the ped.to block and 2 for the turbo to ped...in my road side link in my sig you will find ford parts ## list and o-ring size...
i live where it gets very cold..we see 40 to 50 below 0. my EBPV is a exhaust brake and does not work as a cold start aid any more...it just holds back pressure to warm the motor a little faster..i have a link for a delete if you want it..it helps in air flow if you remove it or while you have the ped. out you can rebuild the EBPV useing this kit.. http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=314
thanks Ron. I looked at the part numbers but not sure which ones i need. (there was a large and small) can i ask for these o rings at the dealer?
both sets are the same 0-ring..there is 2 small ones and 2 bigger ones..yes you can get them at a dealer..but much cheaper off line or at least the IH dealer.. write down the ## and name for the big one and the small one and ask for 2 of each..
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