Rust!!!
Rust!!!
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Saukville WI
I got a LMC Truck drivers side floor panel in my 86 f-150- workin good so far! I really didnt even put that much effort at all i just set it in and put 4 self tapping screws in and it holds and well no more rust hole of course! You have to re do the hi low switch in the new panel as there are no holes but thats a breeze! To do it right you should weld it in but oh well!
Donnie
Donnie
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From: Virginia
I just redid a f350. I bought my panels from the same place. But the truck I fixed was really bad, and they only make the panels for the front floor board, and the rocker and the floor along the side of the seat.
The problem I ran into was the rear cab corner inside on both sides. And also it was rusted all along the rear bottom of the cab. The rear of the cab was simple enough, and I bought flat sheetmetal and bent it into a 90 and welded it in place. But the inner cab corner structure is the problem area. It's too irregular to try to make something, and they do not make a patch for this area. The cab corner the sell only fixes the part you see from the outside, not the inner part and the corner floor area. I ended up using fiberglass to patch it, but if yours is bad in this area, I would recommend looking for a better used cab.
For what I did, I ended up have $400 and a lot of work in it, and it's ok now, but not as good as a good cab would be, so keep that in mind if you go looking for cabs and think it's too much money to spend, or too much work to swap.
The problem I ran into was the rear cab corner inside on both sides. And also it was rusted all along the rear bottom of the cab. The rear of the cab was simple enough, and I bought flat sheetmetal and bent it into a 90 and welded it in place. But the inner cab corner structure is the problem area. It's too irregular to try to make something, and they do not make a patch for this area. The cab corner the sell only fixes the part you see from the outside, not the inner part and the corner floor area. I ended up using fiberglass to patch it, but if yours is bad in this area, I would recommend looking for a better used cab.
For what I did, I ended up have $400 and a lot of work in it, and it's ok now, but not as good as a good cab would be, so keep that in mind if you go looking for cabs and think it's too much money to spend, or too much work to swap.
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From: Niceville, FL.
Check out Raybuck: http://raybuck.com/wsm/c-129_1980-19...kupbronco.html , My neighbor is pleased with the patch panels he bought.
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
I just redid a f350. I bought my panels from the same place. But the truck I fixed was really bad, and they only make the panels for the front floor board, and the rocker and the floor along the side of the seat.
The problem I ran into was the rear cab corner inside on both sides. And also it was rusted all along the rear bottom of the cab. The rear of the cab was simple enough, and I bought flat sheetmetal and bent it into a 90 and welded it in place. But the inner cab corner structure is the problem area. It's too irregular to try to make something, and they do not make a patch for this area. The cab corner the sell only fixes the part you see from the outside, not the inner part and the corner floor area. I ended up using fiberglass to patch it, but if yours is bad in this area, I would recommend looking for a better used cab.
For what I did, I ended up have $400 and a lot of work in it, and it's ok now, but not as good as a good cab would be, so keep that in mind if you go looking for cabs and think it's too much money to spend, or too much work to swap.
The problem I ran into was the rear cab corner inside on both sides. And also it was rusted all along the rear bottom of the cab. The rear of the cab was simple enough, and I bought flat sheetmetal and bent it into a 90 and welded it in place. But the inner cab corner structure is the problem area. It's too irregular to try to make something, and they do not make a patch for this area. The cab corner the sell only fixes the part you see from the outside, not the inner part and the corner floor area. I ended up using fiberglass to patch it, but if yours is bad in this area, I would recommend looking for a better used cab.
For what I did, I ended up have $400 and a lot of work in it, and it's ok now, but not as good as a good cab would be, so keep that in mind if you go looking for cabs and think it's too much money to spend, or too much work to swap.
that would be my problem area. it is from the fron of the ldoor to the back in the corner on the floor. and it is about 8-10" for the rocker.
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From: St. Louis
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From: Virginia
They all seem to sell the same stuff, and I looked hard for the best price and selection. JCWhitney doesn't have as many panels the others do. And their rockers are just small slip fit ones. The rockers LMC and rabuck sell, wrap completely around the front door post and the rear door area, giving it strength. Then the outer left and right floor pieces butt against these, and this creates the joint were the rubber for the door slips over. This is the real strength part of the cab, but before you weld them in, you have to play with a jack on the corner of the cab, and use screws to hold them in. You keep juggling things around till the door shuts correctly.
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heres an idea for rust problems guys. interstate truckin is a preferred occupation within my extender family. i have had things brought from east to west by my uncles and cousins before. if you have any trucker buddies who are running west to east halve loaded of empty, see if you can get them to bring back rust free beds, cabs, or even whole parts trucks. everything here in the southwest is rust free. we just have other kinds of problems (interiors & rubber). lots of good body stuff out here. being family it didn't cost me anything but the parts, don't know how you guys would make out.
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