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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 03:39 PM
  #1  
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From: Haughton La
Gotta problem and need some help

I bought a 99 f350 about a month ago.Up until this morning I hadnt had the first problem with it.This morning I started it up to go to work and the service engine soon light stayed on.It finally went out after about 10 minutes of driving.While it was on the truck didnt run right.It ran ruff ,worse at low rpm and not near as bad after about 1800 to 2000 rpm.Once the light went out it ran great,just like it always has.Well when I started it up to come home the ses light stayed on again and it ran rough.Since I dont have a scanner yet I went to AutoZone and had the scan it.They didnt find anything.After I left there and got about a mile down the road it wnt back out and started running right again.The light only seemes to come on at cold start and once warmed up it goes out and stays out until it is cold again.Any help would be greatly appreciatted.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 03:50 PM
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Autozone and other generic code readers do not work on our trucks.

If it only happens when the engine is cold, retrieve the stored code so you can pinpoint the problem. To do this, you need a Ford diesel compatible scanner, or take it to a shop that has the proper diagnostic equipment.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 03:53 PM
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it might be UVC harness, Under Valve Cover harness, 99 trucks had lots of the problems with it getting disconnected inside valve cover, it would be wise to check it out, they have kit to correct it, so it wont get loose again,
i hope this helps you ,
but to be sure get a good auto shop put the scaner on it to get PSD specific codes
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 03:56 PM
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From: Haughton La
Yea I thought autozones scanner might not work.I'll have to see about getting a dealer to check it out I guess I just dont like the going to the dealer.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 03:58 PM
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go to a decent local , repair shop, if they have good SNAP ON scaner they might be able to read them, and most likely you have codes stored
let us know what turns out
 

Last edited by PETE'S_6.0PSD; Sep 10, 2007 at 04:33 PM.
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 04:34 PM
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This is what mine was doing too. Only it will start doing it more frequently. A dollar says it's the UVC. Mine happened to be the passenger side. Here's how to test. Next time it does it, w/ the engine still running, pull the UVC harness on the driver or passenger side (one @ a time). These are the wires that go into the valve cover by the Intercooler tubes. Watch you don't burn yourself. If you pull the passenger side and it stays somewhat running, reconnect it and then pull the driver side. If the driver side kills the engine, your problem is the passenger side.

I had to get mine back on the road and haven't properly fixed it (new harness and upgraded clips). I simply took the valve cover off and my inside harness had wiggled out. Plugged it back in, and she's fine now. It's not that bad of job, just be patient and be ready to finess the valve cover in/out.

Matt
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 04:43 PM
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From: Haughton La
will a good scanner show if its the uvc?
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 04:44 PM
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From: Haughton La
will a good scanner show if its the uvc?
Did yours only seem to do it until it warmed up good?
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 07:19 PM
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From: Haughton La
Went out to check the truck.May have found the problem but I'm not sure.I found,completely by mistake,that both battery cables on the drivers side battery were loose.I tightened them and will see in the morning.If this doesnt work then I will check the UVC as suggested tomm. afternoon after I get home from work provided its not raining.
thanks for all the help so far
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 07:23 PM
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I would think that would be a good place to start. A bad connection will cause funny things to happen. Let us know.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by LaJ10
Went out to check the truck.May have found the problem but I'm not sure.I found,completely by mistake,that both battery cables on the drivers side battery were loose.I tightened them and will see in the morning.If this doesnt work then I will check the UVC as suggested tomm. afternoon after I get home from work provided its not raining.
thanks for all the help so far
That may well be the problem. I hope it is but if not the previous advice is also good stuff. Good luck.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by LaJ10
will a good scanner show if its the uvc?
Look for a P1316 bad IDM code.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 03:22 PM
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From: Haughton La
Well a few things changed this morning on my way to work.When I first started it the ses light came on.I started out of my driveway and the speedo wasn't working and the overdrive light on the shifter was blinking.I got about 5 miles from my house and had to stop at a light.When I took off the speedo started working and the overdrive light quit blinking,but the ses light stayed on and the truck still ran rough.The ses light went out at exactly the same spot it did previously and came back on just like before.Then went back out again in exactly the same spot as before.I couldnt stand not knowing what is is so right now it is at the local Ford dealer to be checked out.They said that they may get to it today but if not then tomm.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by LaJ10
Well a few things changed this morning on my way to work.When I first started it the ses light came on.I started out of my driveway and the speedo wasn't working and the overdrive light on the shifter was blinking.I got about 5 miles from my house and had to stop at a light.When I took off the speedo started working and the overdrive light quit blinking,but the ses light stayed on and the truck still ran rough.The ses light went out at exactly the same spot it did previously and came back on just like before.Then went back out again in exactly the same spot as before.I couldnt stand not knowing what is is so right now it is at the local Ford dealer to be checked out.They said that they may get to it today but if not then tomm.
The speedo and o/d light blink were probably a VSS going bad, but that still would not explain the rough running. You have codes, the dealer will read them, ask him what they are. then look here http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/dtc.html for what each code means. most are easily understood, some take a little cyphering, post them up for us to look at and confirm or deny what the dealer says needs to be done. The only reason I ask this is, we have all seen posts where a dealer has done more work than needed to be done, and charged accordingly. Not all dealers do this but there are some tricky ones. Good luck.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 03:33 PM
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If possible I will probably do the work myself.I just like working on my own stuff when I can.
 
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