Replacing plugs at 100k?
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Replacing plugs at 100k?
This will be the first time I'm going to replace the plugs in my V-10 and I figure at 90K that's close enough. Personally I would have done them at 50k max but everyone says they will last to 100K..........so.
I have heard stories of the threads stripping out when they are removed because they have been in so long. Is this true? Is there a secret to preventing this from happening?
How about squrting some WD-40 or penetrant lube into the plug hole and letting it soak in prior to removal.
Your thoughts or suggestions?
Frank
I have heard stories of the threads stripping out when they are removed because they have been in so long. Is this true? Is there a secret to preventing this from happening?
How about squrting some WD-40 or penetrant lube into the plug hole and letting it soak in prior to removal.
Your thoughts or suggestions?
Frank
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: SPRINGFIELD, MA
i have a 99 f350 v10..bought from dealer with 67,000 now has 161,000 ..i still dont know if plugs were changed before me but i was told by a buddy that works from ford if the threads come out with the plug.. exspect a bill for $1,000.00 or more to fix it..so guess what...the truck runs great...im not touching it till its broke
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: MARYLAND
trust me..them plugs might be making that truck run..but after 60K they start wearing down fast. I've done several trucks that have the so called 100K mile plug thing around 60 and they are worn down big time. I've never had a problem getting them out. But i'd deffinately replace them and you'll notice a big difference in the trucks performance once you do.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2007
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I feel extremely bad for the peoples motors who said they have never changed the plugs and have over 100K on them... i would never wait that long and i would not just wait for something to break, really bad philosophy on spark plugs.
The wd-40 is a good idea and anti seize the new plugs. i think someone here said the torque is 25 ft. lbs. but not sure of that.
The wd-40 is a good idea and anti seize the new plugs. i think someone here said the torque is 25 ft. lbs. but not sure of that.
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Joined: Sep 2006
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I change my plugs every 50,000miles. The correct plug gap on my '99 5.4 is .054 inch. When I change the Autolite Dbl. Platinums at 50,000, many of the used plugs gap around .080. Yes the truck still runs OK without changing the plugs. But after changing them and using antisieze on the threads, I don't have to worry about getting them out the next time. The truck always runs better after a plug change and I get about 2 MPG more! Just think how many extra thousands of gallons of gas are purchased by NOT changing plugs for 100,000 Miles!
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Pa
The correct torque on V10 plugs is 13 or 14 ft.lbs.
Change the plugs when the engine is cold to minimize the risks of bringing out the threads with the plugs. A hot engine softens the aluminum and increases the chance of galling.
These plugs problems are NOT as common as people may lead on. The entire modular family was affected by some plug issues.(4.6l, 5.4l and 6.8l) More so in a certain couple years of engines.
My dad had 66k on a set of plugs on his V10 and replaced them because he was getting a slight misfire when cold. 50k is proably long enough to leave the plugs in.
Put nickel anti-seize on the new plug threads, change the plug boots and put some dielectric grease in each end of the COP boots and you'll be good for a long time.
There are a lot of posts on plugs, boots and COPs in the V10 section and it is a good resource.
Change the plugs when the engine is cold to minimize the risks of bringing out the threads with the plugs. A hot engine softens the aluminum and increases the chance of galling.
These plugs problems are NOT as common as people may lead on. The entire modular family was affected by some plug issues.(4.6l, 5.4l and 6.8l) More so in a certain couple years of engines.
My dad had 66k on a set of plugs on his V10 and replaced them because he was getting a slight misfire when cold. 50k is proably long enough to leave the plugs in.
Put nickel anti-seize on the new plug threads, change the plug boots and put some dielectric grease in each end of the COP boots and you'll be good for a long time.
There are a lot of posts on plugs, boots and COPs in the V10 section and it is a good resource.
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I have a technique for taking plugs out when they have been in extended periods.
I use a long breaker bar and only move the plug about 1/8 of a turn then tighten it the same amount. then loosen it 1/8 and tighten.
I repeat this slowly adding 1/8 of a turn when it begins to feel free. Go slowly and reverse directions has worked for me. But it is possible to pull the threads out especially if you make one continuous unscrew of the plug.
I use a long breaker bar and only move the plug about 1/8 of a turn then tighten it the same amount. then loosen it 1/8 and tighten.
I repeat this slowly adding 1/8 of a turn when it begins to feel free. Go slowly and reverse directions has worked for me. But it is possible to pull the threads out especially if you make one continuous unscrew of the plug.
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From: Stephensville WI
The procedure I saw said loosen 1/8 turn, then give it a shot of a thread penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, WD-40 or your favorite) and let it sit a bit, then take out the plug.
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From: Blairsville,Ga
Originally Posted by redford
The procedure I saw said loosen 1/8 turn, then give it a shot of a thread penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, WD-40 or your favorite) and let it sit a bit, then take out the plug.
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Originally Posted by redford
The procedure I saw said loosen 1/8 turn, then give it a shot of a thread penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, WD-40 or your favorite) and let it sit a bit, then take out the plug.