Raduis Arm Bushing Replacement
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2005
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Raduis Arm Bushing Replacement
The radius arm bushings on my 96 are shot so after some searching and reading I dug into it last night. I chose to keep the bracket in place and try the pull the axel forward method. I have disconnected the sway bar, shocks and removed the coil spring and rear retaining nut from the radius arm but have not been successfull in being able to clear the back of the bracket. For anyone who has attempted this successfully do you have any tricks on getting the axel far enough forward? I do not want to wrench on it to hard and cause any damage. Here is a pick of where is stand.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,155
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From: sunny fla sometimes windy
Make sure you mark your driveshaft so you get it back in line. A come along on one side then the other would help big time!! It looks like the axle end of it has been taken off before(extra long bolt sticking out) just take it off there if it ends up that way then hack that extra thread area off it looks hack!!
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
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I just went thru this. I was swapping the whole axel out.
My Radius Arm problem post
It seems there are 3 points 1Pivot 2Axel 3 RadiusArm Pick any 2 the 3rd wont go. If you can pivot the raduis arm on your axel (doubtfull) it will come out/go in. My solution was to cut the rivets off on the brackets and use bolts.
You will need a cutting torch or impact chisel. I want to do the other side some day because the makes it a snap.
My Radius Arm problem post
It seems there are 3 points 1Pivot 2Axel 3 RadiusArm Pick any 2 the 3rd wont go. If you can pivot the raduis arm on your axel (doubtfull) it will come out/go in. My solution was to cut the rivets off on the brackets and use bolts.
You will need a cutting torch or impact chisel. I want to do the other side some day because the makes it a snap.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,388
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From: SE Texas
Like posted, you need to unbolt the driveshaft, and using a come-along helps to pull the heavy TTB beam forward. It's often needed again to pull the beam and radius arm back to fit the bracket. that's why I usually remove the brackets from the frame for the radius arms. I've gotten used to grinding off any rivets in little time, and then punching them out. It's then much easier to bolt the bracket to the arm and jack/raise/pul it into position on the frame. Insert one bolt at a time, and use a punch to help align the bolt holes. USe Grade8 bolts, JSM84
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Joined: Sep 2007
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On My F150 We Left Tires On, Removed The Nut And Kicked It Forward. Worked On One Side The Other We Used A Come-a-long. Pulled The Arm Out, Replaced Bushing, Jacked Arm Up To Hole And Pushed It Back In. Do One Side At A Time. Remember To Count Your Threads Behind Nut To Keep It Even After You Install Them.
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