Still No Start
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 93
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From: Fairview, NC
Still No Start
I posted a couple weeks ago with this problem. A little background Truck quit while on a trip to Kentucky. Had it towed to ford dealer, they did not have time to repair. However they did put it on computer. Said IDM was bad and also should check/replace under valve cover harness.
Replaced IDM, UVCH all 4 still no start. No smoke Tach is moving. Help!
Replaced IDM, UVCH all 4 still no start. No smoke Tach is moving. Help!
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,764
Likes: 39
Originally Posted by Blankie
I posted a couple weeks ago with this problem. A little background Truck quit while on a trip to Kentucky. Had it towed to ford dealer, they did not have time to repair. However they did put it on computer. Said IDM was bad and also should check/replace under valve cover harness.
Replaced IDM, UVCH all 4 still no start. No smoke Tach is moving. Help!
Replaced IDM, UVCH all 4 still no start. No smoke Tach is moving. Help!
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,764
Likes: 39
This is what you need ....
Here is what is needed to put a gauge together thanks to Swamps site.
If you don't have access to a scantool, then go to your local hydraulic supply
house, and have them make you up a mechanical gauge. You might spend $60
or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled
gauge....but having this hose available for future diagnostics might be more
valuable than you think.
The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for
(minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating!) with the gauge on
one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the
head to the hose.
This single fitting will be a 90degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called #
5 o-ring) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90.
Our local hydraulic shop would label such a fitting as 5MB-6MJ90
"JIC" is nothing special...it's just 'hydraulic talk' for a 37degree flare
fitting...standard hydraulic stuff here...nothing rare by any stretch.
Looking at the top of (either) cylinder head, you'll see the factory stainless
braided oil lines (one to each head) then you'll see a few bronze colored
plugs... (Engine off, of course) Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the
bronze plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for
reinstallation , after testing). and the O-rings are reusable, unless brittle,
cracked, etc...
The single 90deg fitting will have a "jamb nut" on the O-ring side...screw the
fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes,
etc...and then tighten the jamb nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90
from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No
sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and
don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight...
Here is what is needed to put a gauge together thanks to Swamps site.
If you don't have access to a scantool, then go to your local hydraulic supply
house, and have them make you up a mechanical gauge. You might spend $60
or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled
gauge....but having this hose available for future diagnostics might be more
valuable than you think.
The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for
(minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating!) with the gauge on
one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the
head to the hose.
This single fitting will be a 90degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called #
5 o-ring) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90.
Our local hydraulic shop would label such a fitting as 5MB-6MJ90
"JIC" is nothing special...it's just 'hydraulic talk' for a 37degree flare
fitting...standard hydraulic stuff here...nothing rare by any stretch.
Looking at the top of (either) cylinder head, you'll see the factory stainless
braided oil lines (one to each head) then you'll see a few bronze colored
plugs... (Engine off, of course) Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the
bronze plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for
reinstallation , after testing). and the O-rings are reusable, unless brittle,
cracked, etc...
The single 90deg fitting will have a "jamb nut" on the O-ring side...screw the
fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes,
etc...and then tighten the jamb nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90
from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No
sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and
don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight...
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 69
Likes: 10
From: Pottstown Pa
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 93
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From: Fairview, NC
Yes I have a wait to start light. checked hpop level it is full. One thing I did notice while trying to start is that the check engine light comes on while cranking but goes off as soon as I stop cranking.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore,Md.
Another cheap fix would be to replace the CMP sensor. Ford has updated to Part # F7TZ-12K073-B. But I have a truck in my shop now that when I hooked my scanner up, I checked the Hi pressure to the injectors and found that it only had 50psi and was really sluggish to build up. After the pressure got to 450 or better it started. Realistically you should have the data checked that way first just to be sure you are getting the correct pressures
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore,Md.
WOW 1500. Never had mine do that be4.
Oh the Crankshaft sensor is located just above and to the right if the harmonic balancer. It is held on by a 10mm bolt. You will be able to see the pointer on it.
Oh the Crankshaft sensor is located just above and to the right if the harmonic balancer. It is held on by a 10mm bolt. You will be able to see the pointer on it.
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,764
Likes: 39
Originally Posted by Blankie
I replaced it about a month ago. (Dosen't mean it's not bad). Will the Tach move if it is bad.