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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

spark plug problems

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Old Nov 26, 2009 | 04:31 PM
  #16  
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danr1
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From: Sand Lake, MI
"whitetail hitman"

How did it run before the tune up you just did?

Did it start but run bad?

Did it start and run just "OK", reason for the tune up?

No start?

And why you say you have a bad injector?

"rocketwrenchbender"

you should have and should start your own thread for your issue.

But while I'm here,

I had plugs break off in my 460, first tune up right after I got it. 4 broke, 2 on each side. I used a acetylene torch (not one of them little propane torch's) to heat them up and extract them. Fun no but beat the heck out of removing both heads.

Be sure to move the piston down the cylinder while working on a given plug, just to be sure the easyout can't hit it.
 
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Old May 9, 2010 | 03:11 PM
  #17  
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mixerpilot
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Removing broken plug

Hey man I had the same problem on my buddies 95 f250 5.7l. It was used primarily for pulling a landscape trailer and quite abit of plowing When I was just doing a simple plug swap. Out came the porcelin and hex part of the plug. But the threaded ground was still in the block. He told me this happened b4 twice and it cost him 2500+ at the dealer and they were the ones who broke off the plug. What they did was remove the head and send it to a machine shop ro remove $$$$$$. Well I dont have a machine shop at my disposal but I did do some research on this problem the plugs that came apart on me were autolites that seemed like they are made of a stamped some sort of sheet metal. I knew if what I was gonna get these things out with had to be cheap and effective. I also read that this is a common problem in the V10s and costs even more to have torn down and fixed like 3500+. This is kinda risky some may say but I speak from experience not something I read or heard from some guy BSin me on how he fixed it and why he cant understand why it didnt work for me. Let me stress that if do this and it works you must keep in mind b4 you start youv got to use quality tools to do this because your gonna get one shot at each plug and your trying to avoid tearing down the motor to get the heads off. But once you do get them off you will essentialy be doing the same thing the machine shop is going to charge u a ton for with a torch and easy out in your garage. So youll need a set of easy outs (you dont need a set of 20 just something that with fit very snug I used the square type (very dificult to find a square drive socket) I just used a good quality adjustable wrench and a jack handle for torque and leverage. some naysayers may coment "Well what if you get it out but snap off the electroid and it drops into the motor" That thought crossed my mind but Iv done this job a number of times and it seems all the electrode does is straighten out. But youll know for sure when pull out. If it does fall in to the motor by chance at least you tried to save a ton of $$. But if it comes out in one piece the only people youll have explain anything to is your wife and neighbors as to why your dancing around like rocky. Yes there is enough room its is tight. The front plugs are easier to get to but the rears can be done my buddies 95 has air and I got that plug out. One last thing use some electrical anti=seize on the new ones and about every 6-9 months put a socket on your plugs and break em free and tighten them you dont have to take them out just make sure they havnt rusted in the head again. I do think one of the reasons this happens is because the heads have angle plugs and they act as catch alls for everything. Hope this helps
 
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Old May 9, 2010 | 03:22 PM
  #18  
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ymeski56
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Originally Posted by whitetail hitman
i gave up on trying to fix it myself and decided to take it to a shop around here. it turns out i have a bad injector. ill know something my tomorrow.
One bad injector shouldn't keep it from starting. Was the distributor installed 180 out too?
 
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