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I did this once many years ago on a 289 cu inch, and had the same problem. Turns out I had them in the right order, I just started one hole off.
Was so embarrassing.
Good Luck Frank
Also make sure you're going in the right direction. If I remember, the wires run CounterClockwise when looking at the top of the distributor and the #1 terminal is at or near the cap clip on the R/H side looking from the front of the vehicle.
I did this once many years ago on a 289 cu inch, and had the same problem. Turns out I had them in the right order, I just started one hole off.
Was so embarrassing.
Good Luck Frank
i started with #1 on the marked #1 on the position marked #1 on the distrubitor cap, and worked all the way around the cap counter clockwise in firing order, still nothing.
it cranks fine it just wont start
it feels like all the wires are crossed but they arent.
also when i got my engine rebuilt, my cam was installed 180 out. maybe that has something to do with it?
Last edited by whitetail hitman; Sep 4, 2007 at 01:46 PM.
i figured out the problem but its still running rough, i just had the trans. rebuilt a few months ago and havent had any problems, maybe its something to do with the air check valve.
I'm sure you have it right, but it can't hurt to triple check...
Also have a look around and make sure nothing got unplugged accidentally or forgot to plug back in when you were finished. Since it just started when you changed plugs/wires/cap/rotor, it is most likely something to do with replacing those things.
I have a major problem and hope some one can help. I have a 1989 F-250 the plugs must be original as two have rusted to the point were the plugs have broken leaving the grounding electrode stuck in block. I have used an ez out, deep creep heat, cussing and screaming any other ideas outside of the removal of heads