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I am confused about this EGR/cooler delete. I am looking at disconnecting my EGR for now. When I read here about EGR/EGR cooler deletes are we talking about 2 different operations. If I block off the EGR what is the point of the cooler delete? Can someone please explain?
Disconnecting the EGR will still allow the hot exhaust gas into the EGR cooler and that can cause flash boiling of the coolant in the EGR cooler
(puking out the dugas bottle). The up-pipe must be blocked to the EGR cooler at a minimum. Howerver, if the EGR cooler is bad, it can allow coolant into the intake and thus into the combustion chamber which can stretch the head bolt. I had this happen to me even with the EGR turned off in the SCT tuner. To really do it right, you need to get rid of the whole system or else you risk getting coolant into the intake and then the cubustion chamber. I tried to cure the puking with the up-pipe bypass, but it still puked, turned out the EGR cooler was bad. Hope this explains it... There is a lot of good info on this subject if you search this forum.
So you not only isolate the exhaust gas from entering the intake you are eliminating the coolant from getting into the cooler also. I think I get it now. With the engine still under warranty what is the easiest thing to do, just the EGR disconnect is easy to undo if I have to take it in for work, correct?
Some guys do the sneaky pipe from Elite diesel which blocks exhaust to the EGR cooler, but keeps factory look. I have heard that the diagnostic equipment from ford can detect if exhaust is not flowing to the cooler??? Easy to unplug the EGR valve, not as easy to put in a sneaky pipe... It's hard not to go all out on this truck once you start moding it(SCT tuner, EGR delete, studs, exhaust...)
I am trying to stay stock till warranty expires. I also am paranoid about all the issues, especially headbolts and am still deciding if I want to keep the truck. I have had it since Dec (an 05 with 75k) and have fallen in love with the truck but always feel like I am waiting for the other shoe to drop. I changed the fuel filters the other day and filled the secondary filter casing with Diesel Kleen to blow things out and the truck crapped out on me. Took it to the dealer because I thought it had really puked and it was just a clogged EGR, I definitely knocked some stuff loose I guess.
I just dont know if I want to pony up the several grand to get the ARP studs put in, but I dont think I will trust the thing until I do that at the very least.
[quote=RigET;7126412] Took it to the dealer because I thought it had really puked and it was just a clogged EGR, I definitely knocked some stuff loose I guess.
quote]
Did they charge you the $100 deductible? If so, they should not have under the emissions warranty.
I looked at the First Coast Diesel after Doubledee's comment. It looks like a good set up but I'm happy with the Liberator. It costs less and should perform the same function. Also, I didn't have to fool with cores or deposits. My leak was the rubber coolant hose but since I had to tear so much of the motor apart to get to it (and I'm out of warranty) I went ahead and replaced the pipe and cooler. This is also a good time to check for burnt wires on the sensors at the back of the HPOP. I replaced the pigtails and re-insulated the wire bundle that run close to any hot exhaust or turbo pipes.
I had the egr cooler on my truck replaced twice! I got tired of it and finally found a place that was selling what they called an 'EGR cooler upgrade kit'. I bought their product and it was quite an upgrade! (Just google 'egr cooler upgrade kit' and you will probably find what I did)
This upgrade removed the flimsy radiator-like stuff from inside the Ford cooler and somehow welded in a new, stainless steel tube assembly to better handle the heat. I liked it because it still allows for proper EGR function, doesn't require me to "trick" the computer... plus it looks/is entirely stock from the outside, so Ford would never even know something different about it.
That sounds like a good system too. My problem was multiple leaks of both coolant and exhaust. This combination sent up the red flags for problems listed in this thread. With the exception of the leaky coolant hose, the rest of the problems were gaskets left out during a previous warranty repair by the dealer and a pile of loose bolts. Putting in the complete kit fixed all evils except for the 3 missing head bolts which I am now trying to source. This forum is full of good stuff and multiple ways to fix the various problems we all face.
That sounds like a good system too. My problem was multiple leaks of both coolant and exhaust. This combination sent up the red flags for problems listed in this thread. With the exception of the leaky coolant hose, the rest of the problems were gaskets left out during a previous warranty repair by the dealer and a pile of loose bolts. Putting in the complete kit fixed all evils except for the 3 missing head bolts which I am now trying to source. This forum is full of good stuff and multiple ways to fix the various problems we all face.
Well you bring up a good point and that is the more times you go in there (or a Ford mechanic - whomever), the better the chance that all those bolts, gaskets, washers, spacers, etc are going to be missing. Add to that the extra work that has to be done if you blow your head gaskets, etc... sounds like that is where you ended up... and now you have headbolts missing.
Thats the reason why I went with this EGR Cooler UPGRADE kit - emphasis on the upgrade. I wanted to replace this darn thing one last time and one last time only. I talked to some other guys and they have used this to replace their cooler BEFORE it goes bad, to help prevent further damage when their Ford cooler starts to go. Been there, done that!
Don't mean to change the subject this topic is of great intrest. I have the SCT x3. How do I use it to turn off the EGR value. I read on this site a recomendation to unplug the EGR. Is this sufficeibt or do I need the turner? Can someone provide the steps to take using the SCT?
I had the egr cooler on my truck replaced twice! I got tired of it and finally found a place that was selling what they called an 'EGR cooler upgrade kit'. I bought their product and it was quite an upgrade! (Just google 'egr cooler upgrade kit' and you will probably find what I did)
This upgrade removed the flimsy radiator-like stuff from inside the Ford cooler and somehow welded in a new, stainless steel tube assembly to better handle the heat. I liked it because it still allows for proper EGR function, doesn't require me to "trick" the computer... plus it looks/is entirely stock from the outside, so Ford would never even know something different about it.
A friend of mine owns a 2006 Power Stroke in his tow truck. He was telling me about how his EGR cooler went bad... AGAIN. He said that he has had it replaced 3 times since he bought the truck brand new. I told him about this thread and the "egr cooler upgrade kit". He found it on eBay and bought one...saying that he was tired of replacing this thing and that he needed his truck to stay in business.
I went by this weekend and watched as he removed and replaced the unit. You can find the pics to the whole thing here:
He inspected the item from eBay before installing it. He said that Ford wanted like $450 plus $115 for gaskets for a new EGR cooler, and this one was actually going to save him $100 and it was a lot stronger. He also liked that the new one has the exact same fit and function as the original cooler, so installation was easy.
I will update the forum as his mileage goes and any history or emissions problems.
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