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Today I pulled the heads on my mercury 410 to find out why it was smoking and knocking at times,well, I foundout that the #5 piston has a peice missing, top of piston,looks like it was slapping the head,Iwas wondering if anybody has any ideas on what new parts and with whom, I should purchase them,looks like a major overhaul since I'm already this far into it, Thanks, Farmer
You can spend 100 bucks for some cast badgers from autozone on up to 700 bucks for some ross racing pistons. You can also get some L2291F60 pistons and shave the tops to get the piston below the deck. I think silvolite makes some pistons to yeild very low compression on a 390 and they might work in a 410.
Farmer, how serious of a build are you looking to do ? If cast pistons are okay, I would run Silvolite- I'll look up the number at work tomorrow. I have had very good luck with Hastings piston rings, order the moly top ring style. Are the bores in good shape, or do you have to bore oversize ? DF
Sorry it took so long to reply,had trouble getting back in the forum yesterday,the cyl.walls look perfect,can't beleive they don't even have a ridge at top,and I think the peice missing,must have gone through the exhaust valve.As far as how extinsive of a rebuild,I'd like to end up with a good preforming motor,I think I can use the same valves but ,would like better springs,new street cam,I have a 600 cmf el and alum.intake on it,very early style though,looks just like the cast iron style Itook off,thinking the performer might be better?Also want to balance the crank and flywheel,thanks for your help,and any of your ideas with this rebuild,only want to do this once, Farmer
Farmer, if your using cast pistons, the silvolite 1139s have the 1.66 pin height that your 410 needs. For rings, I would go with Hastings 2M574. For a camshaft, how about a crane hydralic ? The '801' cam is big enough to be powerful, and will idle just fine, especially with the 3.98 stroke. I would recommend a blue thunder 427MR intake and at least a 750 cfm carb.....DF
1139s have an advertised compression ratio of around 8 to 1. Pistons for a 428 Silvolite 1138s have a cr around 10 to 1. This engine is in a car. Wouldn't 10-1 be more suitable for this application?
William in Atlanta
The 1139 piston will give 7.8 to 1 compression in a 390. The same 1139 piston in a 410 will give 9 1/2 to 1, because of the longer stroke. I wouldn't go any more than 9 1/2 , unless your going to run racing or AV gas. DF
Have you taken it apart yet? I think you said the piston was hitting the cylinder head? If it was you have a bad crankshaft with a spun rod bearing and probably a bad rod.
Tell us when you got the bottom end apart, if you don't already.
Sorry didn't mean to get aggressive. What I ment was usually if the piston has been hitting the head the bearings has spun and will "piggy back", there by alowing the pistons to travel upward farther. Make sure the machine shop mics the crankshaft. I have had many customer insist the crankshaft and rods are good because "it looks fine" and they were not.
Tim,I'm hoping that the timing got advanced a little to much and thats what caused my situation,but if I did'nt have bad luck I would'have any at all.Would'nt this piggy back problem continue if I did spin a bearing and bend the crankshaft,because, I drove it home about 15 miles and there was no differance in the way it ran other then the smoking continued, I did'nt notice any vibrations,and the knocking stopped right away.I'm planning on having the crank mic'd even before I purchace my new parts,thanks for your imput,when I do get the crank to the shop, I'll make sure and let you know how my luck is, Farmer
Yea, I wouldn't think the knocking would go away if there was a bad rod journal. It makes me curious about why the piston was slapping the head. Keep us in touch.
Tim,do you you think a weak valve spring and a push rod thats a little long could extend the travel of a valve just enough to make contact with the piston at the very top,Farmer
If the springs were weak and the valve hit, you should probably have a bent valve then. As far as your pushrods, if it ran fine before, then there should not be a problem there. When you were talking a knocking noise, is it a knocking or a pinging. Do you hear it when you are under a load, or do you here it at a steady speed. Does make a difference warm or cold?
Tim,this happened to me two different times and both times I was getting on it pretty good,as soon as I heard the noise I shut it down,both times which happened to be about a year apart I was not close to home,but when I re-started the truck the knocking went away and the oil pressure returned to normal.The second time though,I got out and tried to listen to where the knock was coming from and sure enough it was right at the #5cyl.Ialso think Iknocked another peice of the piston off because it smoked a little more
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