I think I've problem with my old brakes lines (my Aero drag slowly on rigth), so I'm planning to change them to Aeroquip Teflon/steel lines, but I need info about thread size and eventually parts models for that. If somebody can help me.

 

Check calipers first. It is usual problem - stuck caliper. I had to take my calipers apart, clean and lubricate all.....

 

I agree with you, Pablo, but I've done that three years ago, new pistons ( really amazing diamond polished steel) and special brakes Bendix grease; sus, I change my brake liquid every two year.
When I bought my Aero in 98, I was really bothered with this car: exotic mechanic and tuning, exotic tools size; so I took advices with certified mechanics, with no help, specially with Ford dealers: " what? an Aerostar!!!!! when we have one for servicing, we change engine oil, no more, it's a clumsy car, why did you bought that?". Well, I've found an "american cars specialist", no more than a man owning and servicing himself a Barracuda big block! so he decided to install as a mechanic, how, I don't know; for instance he tried to change my brakes lines, but he failed with the right one, rounding the steel line nut with a vice-plier ( it's not a joke!!!!)
Now I think an oxyacetylene blowtorch is mandatory, with brake liquid removed of course; perhaps I'll need to re-shape the nut with a file; but for instance I really want to move for Aeroquip lines, for different reasons but the first I think is durability, and also a stronger feeling with the brake pedal. Also, it's nothing to say that in periodic automotive control (it's mandatory every two years in France for old car) this is one of their stronger control, the first drop of liquid coming from a brake limiter, or a suspicious brake line and they refuse the car certification, with only one month to solve the problem, really hard to import parts and repair in this time; so every time I have to anticipate the failures.

 

Unfortunately, I tossed the brake hoses that I replaced last year, so I won't be able to easily make measurements. The stock arrangement was a little alarming. There is this short length of tube rubber covering the main hose from the frame fitting to a few inches below it. I guess it's supposed to protect the main hose. On mine, where it covered the metal fitting had collected water long enough to cause the metal to corrode, and on the other end the sharply cut-off rubber tubing had started to cut into the brake hose. If I could fand the proper Aeroquip lines, I would use those the next time I need to replace these hoses.

Having the right tools really make certain jobs a lot easier. I was struggling with the brake line on the caliper on a Probe because I didn't have a metric flare nut wrench. After fighting it for about an hour, and letting an open end wrench slip on it once, we went to the local Sears to get a set of the proper wrenches. The properly sized flare nut wrench took less than a minute to pull off that nut, and the other one without damaging it.

 

Hi pinceau!

Most Ford cars & trucks here have the same simple caliper setup. Yes they do begin to stick when they get older. I have had both calipers get old and locked up as you describe on my '94 Aerostar. I've also experienced this on other US Ford models. Ford caliper 'sticking' is common.

They may just need cleaned & lubricated as Pablos had to do. Because parts are cheap and plentiful here we just replace them with rebuilt calipers.

The hoses are metric, I think, but I don't know the tread pitch or size. Someone should be able to learn the right size without taking apart a working car to measure the threads.

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You can discover if the hose is restricting by this method:

1) When you know the wheel is dragging- stop the car & if possible jack up the wheel a little way off the ground.
2) Next loosen the bleeder valve on the caliper. If fluid under pressure comes out and then the wheel becomes easier to turn it is a sign the hose has been trapping pressure in the caliper.
3) If you cannot loosen the bleeder valve try loosening the hose itself. If you can prove it is not restricted by seeing free fluid flow maybe you can consider the hose is OK.

If the wheel is still hard to turn when all fluid pressure is gone from the caliper, then it must be sticking, the pads not releasing.
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Maybe it just needs cleaned & well lubricated. Make sure wheel bearings are ok too

It sounds like your hoses are older anyway so probably good idea to replace them.

Has anyone else here had hose failure on their Aerostar? I have not on the Aero but have on other cars in past.

I also hope you can find good mechanic there. No matter the language or nationality of cars he knows, a good mechanic will be smart enought to fix your car right, by carefully using logic & reason & correct tools.

 

Fortunatly in 80-s Chrom was cheap and that's why bearings of 80-s and early 90-s have long lifetime.... Wheel bearing of modern car can not work longer then 100k.... I miss 90-s..........

 

I can't stress enough having the right flare wrenches to remove the brake hoses.
On one of my fathers older ToyYodas . He had a brake line fail on the road unfortunately it was a car pre ABS and no proportioning valve. So the pedal sank and no more brakes.

Upon inspection the rear line was badly rusted and just finally gave way its neighboring rear line looked scary too.

Well when I went to remove the brake lines I used a dumb adjustable wrench and rounded off the flats.

So 20 agonizing minutes later I was able to get it loose with a vice grip however for the other side I just bought a set of flare nut wrenches.

Wow no damage!

 

I'm a little late to answer (really busy at this time).
This forum is a gold mine!!!!!! I can say how happy I am to find good advice here, thank you men!!!!!

 

let us know if you really need to know line/hose thread size. I think it can be found online somewhere.

 

I think it's something like a good idea; when I rebuilt rear brakes I have bought a Facom special hose wrench ( an open polygonal 3/8 - 7/16, wich come in differents size, specially for brakes and diesel injection lines) cause the nuts where not metric. It's a strong one, like plenty of tools in this brand, but in my case the nut is completly rounded. in Europe brakes lines nuts are metric, I think only by convenience, my Aero have US nuts (3/8) but I'm not sure if the thread size is different between metric and US, generally fluids lines come in BSP thread or something like that, for the unique reason that mass-market brakes builders are US compagnies (Bendix, Lockeed and so on).

 

Yes my friend pinceau, if the nuts are English the threads will be also. Most American automobiles have been switched to metric parts but not all the parts. Some English & metric are very close but will NOT inter-change.