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Towing two trailers??

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Old Oct 11, 2007 | 07:52 PM
  #16  
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From: sunny fla sometimes windy
You should get those anti sway hitch deal, I forgot what they are called now.
Also keep your tires at the reccomended pressure and get as many sidewall ply as you can to minimize sway. A steering stabilizer on the truck might even help to keep from over correcting.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 07:22 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by fireman660r
Well, I made my first trip last weekend with two trailers. I pulled my 26' 5th wheel and a 16' enclosed trailer that is 20' from hitch to back. Altogether I was right around 63-64'. The key to this as I quickly found was to drive around 60 mph and make no sudden moves on the steering wheel. The power of the truck completely stock was not an issue at all, I caught myself going 70 on the flats and didn't realize it. Braking also was not a problem, the truck in tow/haul has some kind of set-up that makes the tranny start to slow the truck as soon as you let out on the throttle. Both trailer have brakes on both axles, all of which were wired together and not once didn't I have a problem slowing or stopping. I was quite impressed with everything and will definitely start doing it more.
That's great to know. I have plans to set up a car behind my 5th wheel as a toad.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 10:46 PM
  #18  
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Before you get an anti-sway bar tow your double load first. I was told by a guy at the trailer shop that sway would be a problem for my long load (63 feet). He said going downhill could be a real problem with my setup. So before I went on my first trip I towed the load with my girlfriend following me. We went down some steep hills with me turning the steering wheek back and forth. Both trailers towed straight and true. I have never had a sway problem with my setup and all I have for the rear trailer is a simple ball hitch.

Randy
 
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 08:11 PM
  #19  
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Hitching anything to an RV trailer invalides the warranty.

Warranties aren't worth much anyway, but that will put the kibosh on it for sure.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 08:16 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by ronwilll
Hitching anything to an RV trailer invalides the warranty.

Warranties aren't worth much anyway, but that will put the kibosh on it for sure.
I don't know how to word this without sounding a bit punchy, sorry.

On what, the frame? If a dump valve goes out or the AC leaks all it's freon, how could a hitch on the back of the trailer affect those components.
I can understand a cracked pinbox due to overloading and would pay to have that fixed without any arguement.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 11:10 PM
  #21  
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Point is, the manufacturer will deny coverage on virtually anything if you hitch anything to the frame.

ACs on RVs are not rechargeable. When the freon goes, so goes the unit.

Why wouldn't they refuse coverage? It's the easy way out.

Trailers are meant to be towed only and are not structurally designed to tow another vehicle.

I suppose they would overlook the spare tire that comes with the vehicle or a bike rack on the rear bumper, but if you hang a motorcycle on a bumper rack, it can not only disturb the suspension or bend the frame, but can cause stability problems by lightening the load on the hitch pin. The hitch pin should have around 12 to 15% of the trailer weight on it and other weights on the rear would disturb that.

Aside from the above, when a second trailer is towed, the effect of a minor twitch in the tow vehicle can result in a major swerve in the rear trailer. The movement in the tow vehicle is multiplied by a factor or 3 or 4 in the rear trailer.

I wouldn't want to be in the opposite lane from such a vehicle when the driver looked away for a second and then pulled back quickly resulting in a "whiplash" effect that brought me into contact with his second trailer.

But that's just my opinion. You're entitled to yours.
 

Last edited by ronwilll; Oct 20, 2007 at 11:18 PM.
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 01:08 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by ronwilll
Point is, the manufacturer will deny coverage on virtually anything if you hitch anything to the frame.

ACs on RVs are not rechargeable. When the freon goes, so goes the unit.

Why wouldn't they refuse coverage? It's the easy way out.

Trailers are meant to be towed only and are not structurally designed to tow another vehicle.

I suppose they would overlook the spare tire that comes with the vehicle or a bike rack on the rear bumper, but if you hang a motorcycle on a bumper rack, it can not only disturb the suspension or bend the frame, but can cause stability problems by lightening the load on the hitch pin. The hitch pin should have around 12 to 15% of the trailer weight on it and other weights on the rear would disturb that.

Aside from the above, when a second trailer is towed, the effect of a minor twitch in the tow vehicle can result in a major swerve in the rear trailer. The movement in the tow vehicle is multiplied by a factor or 3 or 4 in the rear trailer.

I wouldn't want to be in the opposite lane from such a vehicle when the driver looked away for a second and then pulled back quickly resulting in a "whiplash" effect that brought me into contact with his second trailer.

But that's just my opinion. You're entitled to yours.
My guess is you have never towed anything behind a 5er. Towing a boat back there has little effect on the wieght dist. of the lead trailer. It might be different hooking up my skidsteer back there, but even then I could load that rear trailer in a way as not to upset the wieght dist.

As far as warranty goes, I have had our big sky montana in warranty work with not even a mention of the reciever hitch except for the service manager noting how clean the install was.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 11:27 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by ronwilll
Point is, the manufacturer will deny coverage on virtually anything if you hitch anything to the frame.

ACs on RVs are not rechargeable. When the freon goes, so goes the unit.

Why wouldn't they refuse coverage? It's the easy way out.

Trailers are meant to be towed only and are not structurally designed to tow another vehicle.

I suppose they would overlook the spare tire that comes with the vehicle or a bike rack on the rear bumper, but if you hang a motorcycle on a bumper rack, it can not only disturb the suspension or bend the frame, but can cause stability problems by lightening the load on the hitch pin. The hitch pin should have around 12 to 15% of the trailer weight on it and other weights on the rear would disturb that.

Aside from the above, when a second trailer is towed, the effect of a minor twitch in the tow vehicle can result in a major swerve in the rear trailer. The movement in the tow vehicle is multiplied by a factor or 3 or 4 in the rear trailer.

I wouldn't want to be in the opposite lane from such a vehicle when the driver looked away for a second and then pulled back quickly resulting in a "whiplash" effect that brought me into contact with his second trailer.

But that's just my opinion. You're entitled to yours.

Some brands have a receiver hitch as a option our HH for one.

RV A/C units are rechargeable but most RV servicemen don't know how to do it.

If your manufacture wants to refuse coverage coverage its time to find a different brand.

Again some trailers are designed to tow behind them.

The normal 5ver pin is between 15 to 20%, 5vers are designed to have varying pin weights a little hitch weight makes very little difference if any at all.

I have been double towing a boat for 20 years with a 5th wheel and you get very little sway out of the second trailer but a TT is a different animal.

Denny
 
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 09:20 PM
  #24  
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Well, my 5th wheel is a "Heavy Frame" camper. That is what the dealer I bought it from told me. He said typically anymore, the lighter a camper is the less you want to tow behind, which makes good sense. If a manufacturer wants to lighten a camper they put lighter weight materials in the frame and everywhere else. I am pretty sure that they are not using titanium or high dollar lightweight materials such as that. This means that in effect they are weaking the structure of the trailer. My buddy has a 5th wheel 1 foot longer than mine. His empty weight is somewhere around 4600 lbs. My 5th wheel empty weighs 7300 lbs. That is quite a difference in weight. My 5ver came with a reciever already on it, it is a 10 year old unit that I bought used. I plan on beefing the hitch up this winter, but the 1 load I towed this fall pulling doubles everything worked well, I just had to go slow, 60 mph. At that speed and paying very close attention to what was going on around me and getting into the mind set to not make sudden moves on the wheel I had no troubles. I see a ton of people going to the lake every weekend pulling doubles, I have even seen 1/2 tons doing it, and as safely as possible. I don't recommend a 1/2 ton for it, slowing down might not work to well, LOL. Just my 2 cents.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 03:10 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by hayfarmer550
It also helps backing doubles when you have experience backing farm wagons. They are a pain in the neck.
Try backing a 40ft John Deere head trailer that has the narrow front tires. That will make you a sailor real quick if you have never done it before.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 03:43 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Chance_Thomas
I tow trailer 5th wheel and wave runner with no problems. Weight is around 20,000 I think in texas the length is 75 feet. My friends tow a little longer with no problems.
Just out of curiosity what is the GCWR on your F250?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 05:19 PM
  #27  
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I have backed header trailers Jonbass. They held 30' flex heads and had the narrow front dolly axle. They suck. Just go straight, and yeah they will make you a pro real quick, that or you'll f(*& up the back of your truck. LOL
 
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 06:03 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by alchymist
Just out of curiosity what is the GCWR on your F250?
I think that subject has aleady been beat to death in other threads!!
 
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 07:22 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by fireman660r
I have backed header trailers Jonbass. They held 30' flex heads and had the narrow front dolly axle. They suck. Just go straight, and yeah they will make you a pro real quick, that or you'll f(*& up the back of your truck. LOL
I had to back one out of a lane once because there was noware to trun around and the boss wanted me to come down to him, he couldn't drive the combine down to get it. It took me forever to get it backed around a curve. There was a portable aircompressor in the truck so I couldn't cheat either. Gene later said that he did it just so he could get a good laugh, the f****r. I think I can back pretty much anything now though.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 08:03 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by mudmaker
I think that subject has aleady been beat to death in other threads!!
Just curious, thinking I might have missed something........

At least two posts appear to be beyond the limits......????

____________________Max towing
F250 _(2004)__________capacity,
_____________________properly .............Maximum
_____________________equipped ..............GCWR

5.4L, 3.73:1 axle _________7800 ................13,500
5.4L, 4.10:1 axle _________9300 ................15,000
6.8L, 3.73:1 axle ________11,200 ...............17,000
6.8L, 4.30:1 axle ________14,200 ...............20,000
6.0L diesel, 3.73:1 axle ___13,700............... 20,000
6.0L diesel, 4.10:1 axle ___13,400............... 20,000

Or am I missing something????
 

Last edited by alchymist; Oct 24, 2007 at 08:24 PM.
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