Hello Folks,
Have an 2000 E150 that while accelerating around a corner from a stop position my rear end shutters badly. This seams to be much worse while van is pulling my 2000 lb boat trailer.

Trainy oil level good, new oil last year. Is this u-joints ? anyone else experience this.
Any help appreciated.

 

Tranny & U-joints don't usually care if you're "accelerating around a corner" or in a straight line. However the differential always does.

Rearends are so reliable they're mostly ignored. Acceleration around sharp corners makes the differential do it's thing. Do you know if the diffy oil has ever been checked? Many never have the cover pulled. Rearends are susceptible to a variety of problems. A common one is water intrusion contaminating the oil.

I'd pull an 8 YO diffy cover & see what kind of crap has accumulated in there, clean out all the muck, inspect gear wear & refill. Note that cover gaskets can be difficult to ID by application-take the cover in to match it. At the very least remove the plug, check oil level & inspect a sample of what's in there. A bad diffy usually cooks the oil causing a distinctive smell, water turns the oil into a nasty 'pudding' & excess wear fills the oil with metallic 'glitter'.

 

when you changed the gear oil last year
did you check if it is a limited slip
and if so add a friction modifier

 

He posted: "Trainy oil level good, new oil last year."

By "Trainy oil" I presumed he meant automatic TRANNY fluid-not hypoid/differential "gear oil".

 

Not u-joints. You said "new oil last year". Was that rear end oil? If so, that's the problem. You have a limited slip differential and the clutches are shuddering. You need to add some of the Ford friction modifier for the rear end. That should fix it instantly.

Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT

 

Along the same line. As my 02 E-350 7.3 shiped from the factory with limited, whenever you turned left or right, the rearend was so tight the front of the Van would actually jar or shake a little when the axel sliped. When I took in for repair the dealer must have put to to much friction modifier in. Afterwards the rear end acted like it was a regular one. No traction at all if one wheel was off the ground or on ice. Since, flushed the rear end twice but still no lock-up. Could to much friction modifier have caused this condition?

 

Sounds to me like they swapped it for an open diff. No, too much friction modifier wouldn't elimiate the LSD's action entirely. They may have pulled the cover and yanked out the shims (depends on the type of LSD though).

Take it back and tell them they need to fix it properly.

Steve
'05 Clubwagon XLT

 

I was there while they worked on it. They definitly opened the rear end. Weren't into it but about five minutes. Sealed it back up. Took it for a drive, was still shuddering. They then added something unknown to me to the fluid and it stoped. It wasn't until the warranty ran out that I found out all the traction control was gone.

 

OK, that sounds like the clutches are worn out. That does happen. I would have it rebuilt.

Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT

 

Hi Guys,
Been out of town last day or so, just had the ujoints replaced, tranny fluid is new, never replaced the diff. oil.
Seems like the diff oil needs to be replaced.

 

You might be that lucky. What I've suggested is that your differential might be the source of your "Rear End Shutter".

You have not indicated how many miles w/o the rear end being checked or if its been driven through deep water? At the very least I suggest that you check the differential oil by removing the plug & determining the level & purity of the oil inside. If the oil has been contaminated or run low for awhile your differential may very well be damaged. If inspecting a sample of oil shows anything suspicious, I recommend draining by removing the cover, inspecting the differential, cleaning out whatever muck has accumulated on the bottom looking for metal debris & evaluating what you have. Some problems are economically feasible to repair, others might cause you to consider replacing w/good used. Obviously, regardless of what you find "the diff oil needs to be replaced" at that point, if you want to drive your Econoline.

As others have pointed out, you need to determine if you have a limited slip or standard differential before buying new oil & be sure to use friction modifier if required. Make note that a new gasket may need to be matched by bringing the cover along.